SL cams, crank, piston, rods part numbers

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Jake213

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I have the cam numbers but none of the others. Can anyone post them up? Also maybe make this a sticky? I feel like it's useful info to consider for everyone looking to do motor work.
 
From what I have used
SL pistons x 2 12022261B

SL cams 14814361C
14814381B
Exh valves x4 21110821A
You will also use different retainers for the titanium valves
Remember that you will have to modify the cyl head to fit the pistons
 
I asked ben for a price to turn 1199 crank into an SL spec crank but using Carillo rods.

Heres what he said,

"There is no easy way to do this as the sl uses ti rods and are lighter than the Carrillo rods.
I recommend I just balance and polish the crank and size and install the Carrillo rods.

Carillo Rods are $675
Balance work is $199
Bearings are $167

And Yes I need the pistons, complete with rings pins and clips

Ben Fox "
 
That will be a great motor . With mine being a R already started with the titanium rods but they are expensive . I know someone here with a base model that used the Carrillo rods other than the titanium it works well .
 
Last edited:
wilkson said:
That will be a great motor . With mine being a R I already started with the titanium rids but they are expensive . I know someone here with a base model that used the Carrillo rods other than the titanium it works well .
Click to expand...

Imagine what a 1299R engine would be like :)
 
Could anyone give a rough estimate on how much they spent on the project start to finish. Debating this OR just buying/trading for an 1199R.
 
Looking to “update”/refresh my 1199s internals. Was debating the SL pistons, rods. And valve stems. The crank I am torn on depending on the total cost. I track it often. Also looking for the peace and comfort of not worrying about spinning a bearing.
 
Well all the SL, RS pieces are "kitted" so you would need to have all the pieces. crank, rods,pistons,ring assembly,cams,valves and heads as the combustion chambers are matched to the dome profile and compression spec. You can run a stock crank but the whole assembly would need balancing and then whats the point of the Ti rods if your still spinning a large journal crank. You could also mod the crank by machining it to SL/RS spec and adding the HM weights but then with the cost you might as well just buy the RS crank. As far as bearing life goes thats a whole different conversation as the variables there are numerous. I would just get a later model R and go from there. Going anywhere near SL/RS territory gets really expensive and unless you are willing to go "all in" its just not worth it. That being said I have all the 1199 RS pieces if you really want to go that route.
 

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