- Joined
- Apr 3, 2012
- Messages
- 175
- Location
- NM
Some of you may recall that I started a thread about the issues I was having after disconnecting the exhaust flapper valve. I have done some experimenting and the short answer to solving my hard starting problems was to keep the exhaust flapper valve connected.
I have a base bike with the stock exhaust (no slip on or full system) so this has what has worked for me based upon my setup and the current fuel mapping that the bike was delivered with.
With the exhaust valve disconnected I did not notice a smoothing out of the flat spot around 4,000 RPM's. Of course I didn't get the valve closing at the 30 mph range. The bike wouldn't start when the engine was warmed up: coolant temps between 200-220. To get the bike started I had to open the throttle and hit the starter simultaneously; the bike would start and then immediately die. I would have to repeat and keep the throttle open until the engine stabilized and would idle on its own. Once idling by itself it would run rough.
With the valve connected I was able to start the bike no matter what condition it was in. With the engine cold she starts in about 1.5 seconds of the starter turning. Engine warm, say 30 min to an hour after a ride, bike starts with just thumping the starter in about 2.0 seconds. With the engine really warm with coolant temps of around 215-220 and bike shut off for approximately 3 minutes, like when I am fueling up, I thumb the starter and it takes approx. 2-2.5 seconds and she fires right up. After she starts idle speeds are steady and smooth.
I am not saying that this will work for everyone but it has worked for me so that valve is going to stay connected.
I have a base bike with the stock exhaust (no slip on or full system) so this has what has worked for me based upon my setup and the current fuel mapping that the bike was delivered with.
With the exhaust valve disconnected I did not notice a smoothing out of the flat spot around 4,000 RPM's. Of course I didn't get the valve closing at the 30 mph range. The bike wouldn't start when the engine was warmed up: coolant temps between 200-220. To get the bike started I had to open the throttle and hit the starter simultaneously; the bike would start and then immediately die. I would have to repeat and keep the throttle open until the engine stabilized and would idle on its own. Once idling by itself it would run rough.
With the valve connected I was able to start the bike no matter what condition it was in. With the engine cold she starts in about 1.5 seconds of the starter turning. Engine warm, say 30 min to an hour after a ride, bike starts with just thumping the starter in about 2.0 seconds. With the engine really warm with coolant temps of around 215-220 and bike shut off for approximately 3 minutes, like when I am fueling up, I thumb the starter and it takes approx. 2-2.5 seconds and she fires right up. After she starts idle speeds are steady and smooth.
I am not saying that this will work for everyone but it has worked for me so that valve is going to stay connected.