Sudden RPM drop and Downshifting issue.

Hi guys,

I ride a 2020 Panigale V4R. Before I mention anything, just want to let you know that I’ve already had the clutch plates replaced at ~3,500 miles because of the clutch was slipping in higher gears. I’ve also replaced the OEM clutch slave.

What my issue is that when I try to downshift (GP Shifting) the bike wouldn’t want to do so even with the DQS. But when I do the normal clutch in, rev match downshift the bike works great. Also I did notice that when my RPM drops below 6,000. The RPM just drops like the bike is disengaged. Anyone have had similar issues to mine? As of today my bike is at ~5,900 miles. Today I had my clutch fluid replaced and flushed to be safe. I did notice that the clutch master cylinder boot does have a tear in it. Would that be causing this issue?

I have attached a video of what I’m referring to. I wish I could have gotten a better video but hopefully this gives an idea.

the DQS is very sensitive to position and angle...have you changed or adjusted anything recently? or perhaps a bolt came loose? The up shift is good, or issues up and down? unsure on the 6k rpm issue, thats a new one to me....is it dying when you pull clutch in coming to a stop?

Jag

SirJAG said:

the DQS is very sensitive to position and angle...have you changed or adjusted anything recently? or perhaps a bolt came loose? The up shift is good, or issues up and down? unsure on the 6k rpm issue, thats a new one to me....is it dying when you pull clutch in coming to a stop?

Jag

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I did notice at first that the linkage arm does kinda rub against the fairing so I removed the fairing and it was acting the same. But that does make me wonder if anything shifted out it’s original position.

Also the DQS works great for up, down is where the issue is. I know that the DQS couldn’t really have any issues because when I try to downshift the bike does try to match the rpms because I do notice and hear it. But the thing is that the shifter is very stiff.

So it makes me think that the bike is still engaged even though the throttle is fully closed when trying to downshift.

When I pull the clutch in I haven’t noticed the bike dying but the idle RPM is around ~1,200 if my memory is correct.

Could this possibly be related to a clutch drag?

i dont think so on the clutch drag, it sounds like the push button is reading the shift, and changing the rpm (rev match), so the system is working. I think its likely the angle needs to be adjusted...they are very very finikey man. i had similar issue when i drove the shifter to far DOWN, I had to raise it back up.

is your little clutch switch broken or bent? the little guy under the perch, by where the lines hook up...you have a pin that pushes the press button when you pull the lever...ensure it is working properly...if you dont see an issue, bend it over the pin on the lever...so that IT NEVER engages the push button...see how you like that effect. the down side of leaving it that way is you must put in N to start the bike..not a deal breaker for me...i always remove this pin and start in N.

Jag

SirJAG said:

i dont think so on the clutch drag, it sounds like the push button is reading the shift, and changing the rpm (rev match), so the system is working. I think its likely the angle needs to be adjusted...they are very very finikey man. i had similar issue when i drove the shifter to far DOWN, I had to raise it back up.

is your little clutch switch broken or bent? the little guy under the perch, by where the lines hook up...you have a pin that pushes the press button when you pull the lever...ensure it is working properly...if you dont see an issue, bend it over the pin on the lever...so that IT NEVER engages the push button...see how you like that effect. the down side of leaving it that way is you must put in N to start the bike..not a deal breaker for me...i always remove this pin and start in N.

Jag

Click to expand...

I did replace my clutch bar with another one recently almost 1.5 months ago. I didn’t notice the issue until 3 weeks ago. As of last week I did take the clutch bar off to see if the clutch master cylinder was acting up. I did notice that the rubber boot has a tear in it. And I did notice that the micro controller under it wasn’t going back to it normal position. I did bend the metal back out so I could hear it clicking again. I’ll try to remove the metal tab and see if that helps.

DQS not working on downshifts can be caused by gearing changes. Is the gearing stock?

The clutch microswitch is pretty fragile. Does yours mount with a really small screw?

If you put the bike in gear and pull the clutch lever so its touching the bar, will the bike start? If no, the clutch switch is either not engaging or not working.

It can also be stuck closed, so the bike always thinks its pulled. You can unplug it and see if the bike will start when in gear, which it should not.

The clutch switch is tied to the cylinder de-activation. For that to work, the bike has to be warmed up, and either in neutral or the clutch switch activated. It will only activate if the lever is pulled all the way to the bar. For example, if you only use two fingers on the clutch lever when stopped, you won't be able to pull it far enough to activate the switch and the cylinder deactivation won't work.

BP PanigaleV4S said:

DQS not working on downshifts can be caused by gearing changes. Is the gearing stock?

The clutch microswitch is pretty fragile. Does yours mount with a really small screw?

If you put the bike in gear and pull the clutch lever so its touching the bar, will the bike start? If no, the clutch switch is either not engaging or not working.

It can also be stuck closed, so the bike always thinks its pulled. You can unplug it and see if the bike will start when in gear, which it should not.

The clutch switch is tied to the cylinder de-activation. For that to work, the bike has to be warmed up, and either in neutral or the clutch switch activated. It will only activate if the lever is pulled all the way to the bar. For example, if you only use two fingers on the clutch lever when stopped, you won't be able to pull it far enough to activate the switch and the cylinder deactivation won't work.

Click to expand...

What would you consider gearing?

When I looked at my micro switch it didn’t have any screw.

Normally do I have to pull the clutch to start the bike? I always park the bike in Neutral. But definitely I’ll try to unplug the switch and see what happens.

And I think what your saying about the bike thinking the clutch is pulled even though it isn’t because i noticed regarding the 6,000 and below sudden drop the bike kinda acts like the clutch isn’t engaged so it just goes to idle RPM until you open the throttle which then the clutch engages…..

Also before every ride I always let the bike warm up. (My neighbors hate me for that )

thebaba24 said:

What would you consider gearing?

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Front and rear sprocket.

I ask about the micro switch mounting with a screw because it’s a different part. In 2021 the Panigale got the self-bleeding master cylinders the SL used, and for some dumb reason the clutch microswitch mounts with a screw and costs about three times as much. They normally just press into place.

BP PanigaleV4S said:

Front and rear sprocket.

Click to expand...

yes they are stock.

thebaba24 said:

What would you consider gearing?

When I looked at my micro switch it didn’t have any screw.

Normally do I have to pull the clutch to start the bike? I always park the bike in Neutral. But definitely I’ll try to unplug the switch and see what happens.

And I think what your saying about the bike thinking the clutch is pulled even though it isn’t because i noticed regarding the 6,000 and below sudden drop the bike kinda acts like the clutch isn’t engaged so it just goes to idle RPM until you open the throttle which then the clutch engages…..

Also before every ride I always let the bike warm up. (My neighbors hate me for that )

Click to expand...

dont unplug the micro switch, just move the arm that engages it to the other side of pin...so that clutch lever never depresses the switch.

unplug may through an error..

Jag

SirJAG said:

dont unplug the micro switch, just move the arm that engages it to the other side of pin...so that clutch lever never depresses the switch.

unplug may through an error..

Jag

Click to expand...

Ok will do. Now if it does turn out to be the micro switch I should just get a new one. If not what else should I do,

My first goal is to try the micro switch. Then I’ll look at my shifter linkage and see if anything got loose or bent.

Forsure I’ll be taking photos and videos to keep you guys posted. Thanks for the info/ help!

It won’t throw an error, but could be stuck closed. The bike wants to limit the RPM if the clutch is pulled in to keep someone from reving it too high.

If you had the dealer diagnostic tool you could see if it was open (off) or closed (on) and verify if it’s functioning.