"Open, soft, fast" would be 30 clicks out, "Closed, hard, slow" would be 0 clicks, correct?
That's right; you won't have that many clicks with the base, but otherwise correct. Turning the adjusters clockwise just screws a needle valve into an orifice, closing off oil flow; backing it out does the opposite.
You won't get it truly sorted at your weight with stock springs, but you can move it in the right direction. Stock damper settings on the base are 10/10 at both ends, so right about in the middle of their adjustment range (which isn't terribly wide, though you can certainly tell when you change it). If you're looking for more bump compliance on the road (likely with stock springs), you're going want to try backing off on the compression damping (more clicks out). I'd think you want to avoid reducing rebound from stock since the bike's oversprung at your weight and you want some damping help to avoid too-quick rebound.
But if you haven't felt what range you have, you should. Back all your dampers out about 20 clicks on comp and rebound and go ride the bike on a stretch of road that's representative of what you want the bike to work well on to see how it feels that way. What you'll notice is chassis dive and wallowing as you brake and accelerate and a generally loose feeling, but the bike will be perfectly rideable at street pace like that - the adjustment range is not huge. Then close all the dampers down to maybe a click from full in and re-ride that same stretch of road for comparison. What that will do is show you right off what you have to work with; all you can do with OEM suspension is end up somewhere within that range.
My guess is at your weight on OEM springs, for street riding on normally bumpy roads you're probably going to end up with a bit less compression damping than stock with a bit more rebound; say 12 or so out on comp and 6-8 out on rebound. The smoother the roads and the harder you ride the more you're going to want to tighten the damping up to control the chassis. For track use as in the posted setup link, you're accelerating and braking a LOT harder than you will on the road; a general purpose road setup is a bit more like a wet setup for the track.
The best thing to do is pick a good stretch of road and do repeats on it with different settings back to back for comparison. And don't be afraid to overshoot on settings; just like getting your eyes checked for prescription lenses, you do it the same way; go a bit too far in both directions and work back to where you like it. You're not going to get it ideal with the stock springs, but you can find a reasonable compromise between compliance and chassis control.
) this may well be close??
