So I’ve been workin on the bike for 2 weeks now it’s having a hard time starting, I replaced the timing belts, oil change, new starter, plugs, battery, Upgraded terminal cables. When it does run and I blip the throttle it’ll cut off and die while making a whine sound then take forever to start again. When the bike is running the battery reads 14.2 volts so the rectifier seems okay. And ideas on the issue ???
Troubleshooting Bike Starting Issues - 2012 Ducati 848 Evo
- Thread starter Tyler22
- Start date
It seems to be getting fuel I can smell it after trying to crank for a while
Explain the whine. From where, what tone, do you hear it all the time? Do you hear the fuel pump pressurize the system and then stop when you turn the key on? Are both cylinders running when it starts? If you let it idle and warm it up a bit does it still stall when you open the throttle? Did you mess with anything else when you changed the belts etc.? When it's running does the exhaust from either cylinder sound abnormal? Anyway need more info.
It sounds like it’s down the left side of you where sitting on the bike it’s a high pitch whine only right when the motor dies and the belts and timing seemed perfect no issue and running it’s a little poor compared to normal I thought maybe the sprag clutch but im not sure
The sprags normally just start to slip and don't whine. Did you have the alternator cover off? Only thing over there that could whine would be the outrigger bearing (behind the cover on the alternator case) or the starter stuck on. Weird. The bike will start and run with a cam out of time, either, but due to where the crank is when the belts are done it's usually the rear cylinder exhaust cam. If you can get the bike to start and just idle to warm it up. Do that and genty open the throttle to see how it acts when the computer is to normal fueling mode.
If i slowly open the throttle it seems smooth up to about 7k then starts to get a little off sounding and most times when it’ll start I have to hold the throttle slightly to keep it from stalling out again
It ran ok before you did everything? If the rear exhaust cam is mistimed then the rear pipe will be hotter than the front pipe and the rear cylinder will be louder. As you rev the motor it won't be crisp. Sorta dull sounding. The front cylinder is dragging the rear. Might idle, might not. The only thing you've said you've done that would bring on this is the belt change. I assuming you marked everything while you were in there but if not you can pull the valve cover, rotate the rear cylinder to overlap TDC and check to see if the valves are open about the same amount. If the exhaust cam (or intake) is out of time you'll see it because the valve lift will be significantly different than the other. Easier way to find TDC is to stick a long skinny screwdriver in the plug hole and watch for maximum height.
No it started prior to the belt change, when I took the old ones off I checked the timing marks and TDC was correct and still proceeded to swap the belts since it was almost due. I assumed it had possibly jumped a tooth but seeing that it didn’t is when I got confused
The closer springs want to advance the rear exhaust cam when the front cylinder is at TDC. A common mistake is it being off a tooth when you adjust the belt. Pull the tank and rear valve cover and check. If it's easier pull the belt covers and check the orientation of the T slots in the cam pulley ends. You'll have to find a service manual as the orientation is different depending on the year and motor size. I think taking the valve cover off is better as you can measure the valve clearances while you're in there.
Checked everything and it’s within spec the only other two things off is the front coil pack has corrosion on the sleeve and the kill switch isn’t tight to the handle bar so it can rotate but both the start button and kill switch work okay
The coil grounds thru the stud in the valve cover so if there's a good ground and the coil is ok it's probably not that. A bad coil will pull a code (CEL) usually. Lots of stuff in the fuel injection can cause issues but it exhibited none of these problems before. I have on multiples occasions found twins where the throttle bodies weren't synced as delivered from the factory. Makes the bike run real ratty under about 4k. But it was ok before. Weird. Have you messed with the air bleeds on the throttle bodies? They look like brass plugs with a screwdriver slot on the side of the throttle bodies. Turn them in while counting the number of turns so you can reset them. If ones closed and the other is like 3 or 4 turns that a sign of miss synced throttle bodies. Anyway warm the bike up and adjust each for maximum idle speed. Sometimes this contributes to hard starting.
I got them matched one was off by half a turn still can’t get it to start
Well I’ve looked over just about everything the only part I have not laid my eyes on was the fuel pump out of the tank I used a bore scope to view if from the fill side and saw it was pumping however I decided to fully pull the pump out and this is what I found
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I appreciate it and yeah I’ve been spending weeks trying to figure out the issue replaced all the fuses cleaned every connection and more then found this could explain why the bike was down on power and stalling but I won’t know for sure till I put everything back together tomorrow
Yep the belt drive superbikes have filters. Usually not a problem for about 30K miles. Hope this fixes it. Post the solution.
The belt drives return line is on the flange also. The change apparently came with the Panigales. My belt drives are earlier than this but exactly the same flange as the rest of the testaretta's. The pump is also used on some small ford and is cheap to replace.
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