ABS removal.

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Ahh. Thank you, Wilkson.

I thought the BBS unit controlled the electronic suspension on the S models. The "brain" so to speak - No?
 
Dear All I have found a way to get rid of most of the ABS pump assembly while avoiding shenanigans with wiring loom and BBS replacement. Basically all you need to do is dismantle the ABS and split it in two pieces. You have to unscrew 4 x torx bolts and it is done. Completely reversible operation too! The big metal portion with the mechanical components you can get rid of or store for future and the plastic part with the 32 pin connector will stay on the bike. That plastic piece contains all the logic and CAN line wheel speed sensor data will still pass through if that stays on the bike and connected. You will not even get an ABS warning message. Yes you don't remove all of it but you get rid of most of the weight and the heaviest piece plus no need to look for wiring looms and BBS units online. Most important you can always put it all back together in case you need to. Lastly I recommend to cut out a nice block of plate to cover the opened up part of the ABS logic. It is amazing how much space opens up in that area. Ill post some pictures soon.
 
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Nice write up. Im surprised that no one has made a logic "plug" for this. Seems they have created them for most of the other pieces. Anyone have any idea of the complexity of this? I have access to a mates for the harness plug from Bosh but someone would have to figure the electronic piece.
 
I would be interested in this route as well. If it gets rid of the "squishy" feeling in the brakes...I am in.
 
Well about the logic it would be complex. I initially wanted to go this way just fashion a plug and get rid of all of it. But I researched it and there is a big difference in abs and non abs wheel speed sensor pass through. In non abs models the wheel speed is processed by the bbs and in abs model
It is processed by abs logic and then fed to the BBs via can line. So simple jumpers won't work. The logic plug would have to be able to process wheel speed hall sensor signal and digitize it and feed into the can line. So I guess the research and investment is not worth it. I have an electronics guy I work with look into it and see if we can find a solution. But even this way you can throw out 4 lbs of weight while spending zero dollars :)


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I have just done this on my 1299s race bike with no issues.

All I did was turn the ABS off in all modes and plugged the pump off and ran lines direct from master cylinder, brakes have a much better feel now on track.

The Orange ABS light remains on the left side of the dash which I believe this stays on anyway if ABS is turned off, but I get no 'error' codes and I don't want to turn ABS back on to find out if it throws any errors.

Does anyone know how to bypass the DES?

Cheers,

Mike.
 
I have just done this on my 1299s race bike with no issues.

All I did was turn the ABS off in all modes and plugged the pump off and ran lines direct from master cylinder, brakes have a much better feel now on track.

The Orange ABS light remains on the left side of the dash which I believe this stays on anyway if ABS is turned off, but I get no 'error' codes and I don't want to turn ABS back on to find out if it throws any errors.

Does anyone know how to bypass the DES?

Cheers,

Mike.



Did you plug of the whole pump where is the big connector in this case on the dash where the DTC field is you will have a "-" which means that dtc is is not working. If you just removed the pump and left the electronics connected it will be fine.


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Where is Endoduc????

Any updates from anyone on this ABS removal stuff anyone come up with a dummy plug or it just not gonna work?

Where is Endoduc he fell off the face of earth????
 

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