Ducati 1299 Suspension and Handling Settings

Mar 2015
469
199
Alberta, Canada
Regardless of circular arguments and opinions that all have points of validity, I personally appreciate the idea of centralized thread that addresses 1299s suspension set.

Hopefully we can swing back to discussing what settings have been used and the methodology to get to that point. Leave it up to the reader to trust whether or not each suggestion makes sense for them.

If you're looking for a black and white 'one method fits all', you're likely into the wrong sport/hobby/way of life/whatever.
 
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Jun 2015
15
7
France
Hi All
Track use
driver 190 lbs , rear susp : Flat
base settings
Sag Front 34
Sag Rear 26
Race Mode , manual settings .

Comp front 10
Reb front 12

Comp Rear 10
Reb rear 9

After several track day I noticed the rilsan on fork is very low, I've tried several settings trying to close down ( harden ) to 5 , it improved some, but still far from being good
I'm now checking with Ohlins for harder spring
I'll let you know when it's done
 
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Jan 2015
946
788
San Francisco, CA
Hi All
Track use
driver 190 lbs , rear susp : Flat
base settings
Sag Front 34
Sag Rear 26
Race Mode , manual settings .

Comp front 10
Reb front 12

Comp Rear 10
Reb rear 9

After several track day I noticed the rilsan on fork is very low, I've tried several settings trying to close down ( harden ) to 5 , it improved some, but still far from being good
I'm now checking with Ohlins for harder spring
I'll let you know when it's done
The rilsan? I'm not familiar with that term, can you explain?

Looks like we are very close on our chosen settings.

Cheers and thanks for the input.
 
Jan 2015
946
788
San Francisco, CA
I just had another conversation with Ohlins, USA and they are recommending sag figures of 38mm front and 28mm rear for the track, for the TTX36/NIX30 combination.. and 40mm front and 30mm rear for hard street riding.

They also recommend that if you can't get your sag figures correct, you are better off going with a slightly stiffer spring and using less preload, rather than a softer spring where you have to crank more preload into the spring to get the preferred sag.

I am going to see if I can get my sag figures to their specs and then see if I like it or not. I will be doing a ton of playing around with the suspension, just to see what the changes do to the way my bike feels.
 
Apr 2015
822
157
Charlotte, NC
The Dave Moss vid was helpful, thanks shilling. If anything the Base model Marzocchi fork spring rate is on the stiff side for the street (and I weigh 200#) but I prefer it that way - still playing with the damping so can't provide numbers yet.
 
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Jun 2015
15
7
France
I just had another conversation with Ohlins, USA and they are recommending sag figures of 38mm front and 28mm rear for the track, for the TTX36/NIX30 combination.. and 40mm front and 30mm rear for hard street riding.

They also recommend that if you can't get your sag figures correct, you are better off going with a slightly stiffer spring and using less preload, rather than a softer spring where you have to crank more preload into the spring to get the preferred sag.

I am going to see if I can get my sag figures to their specs and then see if I like it or not. I will be doing a ton of playing around with the suspension, just to see what the changes do to the way my bike feels.
I use rilsan ( polyamide ) straps around one of the tube, to figure out how dip does the fork plunge while braking. it should leave at least 0.9 inch ( 2 cm or more ) from the bottom end at max braking
And yes , the springs delivered with bike are avg rider weight calculated, around 75 to 85 kg ( you figure out the pounds...or stones ) so if you ride the bike hard or are heavier, than changing springs for harder ones is a good option
 
Last edited:
Jan 2015
946
788
San Francisco, CA
I use rilsan ( polyamide ) straps around one of the tube, to figure out how dip does the fork plunge while braking. it should leave at least 0.9 inch ( 2 cm or more ) from the bottom end at max braking
And yes , the springs delivered with bike are avg rider weight calculated, around 75 to 85 kg ( you figure out the pounds...or stones ) so if you ride the bike hard or are heavier, than changing springs for harder ones is a good option
Ah.. Thank you for clearing that up.. We call them Zip ties.. Cheers.
 
Jul 2012
2,899
2,428
australia
I use rilsan ( polyamide ) straps around one of the tube, to figure out how dip does the fork plunge while braking. it should leave at least 0.9 inch ( 2 cm or more ) from the bottom end at max braking
And yes , the springs delivered with bike are avg rider weight calculated, around 75 to 85 kg ( you figure out the pounds...or stones ) so if you ride the bike hard or are heavier, than changing springs for harder ones is a good option
Keep in mind for people with the base 1299 . These forks bottom out with 33 mm left of fork tube left showing . So using a zip tie around the fork tube you should allow extra.
 
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Dec 2012
230
134
Oregon
Was interesting watching the high-res slow-mo footage from MotoGP practice. You could clearly see at the moment the rear wheel was lifting, the fork still had almost 40mm of stanchion showing, and was clearly still working with the rear wheel in the air. I'm sure all of my forks are completely bottomed at that point.
 
Apr 2015
1,358
1,046
USA
They also recommend that if you can't get your sag figures correct, you are better off going with a slightly stiffer spring and using less preload, rather than a softer spring where you have to crank more preload into the spring to get the preferred sag.
Absolutely.

Once we get near 3/4 of the available preload adjustment, we will go up in Spring rate.