FREE Suspension Setup advice from an expert

Apr 2012
226
209
Irvine, CA
@shigeru, that is odd as the bike has plenty of trail. What tires/pressure are you running? Also what is your weight w/o gear?
 
Mar 2019
4
0
Illinois
I am happy to see that you realized there IS a difference between the diameter(s) for the V3 vs. 200/55 TD. 7.5 mm is the actual difference in radius....we are not worried about diameter because we are only dealing with the height from the axle out.

The oil weight and height are interesting and I would like to hear how you like it.

If you are using one, how far from the bottom of the fork is your travel indicator? I think you mean 3 clicks out with respect to your suspension settings....seems like this is the opposite of what you are thinking....have you pushed on the bike to see what the compression feels like and is this balanced with the rear? How is your tire wear.

Pressures seem fine.
Yes, you're right, 3 clicks out from full stiff instead of turns. I did push on the bike to attempt to get the front and rear moving at close to the same rate, but I don't think I'm great at judging that yet. It felt like it was in the right ballpark at least.

I was happy with the fork oil changes. With the stock oil/level and 3 clicks out from full stiff on compression, the zip tie was at 15mm from the fork casting. After the change to 10wt oil at 170mm air gap, I felt happy with 14 clicks out which put me at 20mm from the fork casting. I think the fork bottoms out at 10mm from the casting, but I forgot to measure it while I had it apart. Fork dive under braking felt smoother and more controlled. I also felt more comfortable trail braking.

The rear ride height change to 317mm was a huge improvement in turn-in effort with very little effect on stability. Halfway through the weekend I switched from the Pirelli TDs to Michelin Power Slick Evos and turn in felt even better, as that change lowered the front 1mm and raised the rear about 3mm.

Initially had some cold tear combined with rebound tear on the rear Pirellis, but I sorted the rebound tear prior to putting the slicks on. Tire wear on the slicks looked really good with the exception of me needing to get to full throttle earlier. Coming off of an R6, opening the throttle is a bit intimidating.
 
Last edited:
Apr 2012
226
209
Irvine, CA
@wortdog, seems like you are happy with the direction you have taken. Any other questions or concerns?
 
Feb 2016
463
119
Long Island
I have found in life that you generally get what you pay for...my aim is to give something worth a lot away for FREE - on this forum. In person tuning is a different story... I am posting this thread to give back and to help people because I read through some of these threads and I routinely see information that is not accurate.

On this thread I will answer questions to help sort out your 848/1098/1198 and all Panigale setup basics and/or issues you may have.

I have been setting up bikes for 20 years for all sorts of riders and I have been very successful in doing so. I started down the path of learning how to do pretty much everything on my own because I didn't want to have to rely on others to fix my bike and I don't want flat rate mechanics who don't care about my safety cutting corners; I have experienced both situations more than once.

I have learned from folks like Dave Moss and David Behrend and setup supermoto, motocross, flat track, mini motard, road race and street bike :)

I am a WERA and AFM racer with top 5 finishes in expert superstock/superbike classes on bikes that I build from scratch and I even won some championships on Ducati when I was a younger man.

I am starting this thread to help so let's get to work...
What tire pressure would you recommend on my 1299. Im running Metzler Recetec RR K3's
 
Apr 2012
226
209
Irvine, CA
What tire pressure would you recommend on my 1299. Im running Metzler Recetec RR K3's
First off, why did you switch to the Metzeler's? Is it for tire life? Have you compensated for the geometry change when switching to the Metzeler tire? 200/55 or 200/60 rear? The K3 is the harder compound so you are compromising grip over the stock tire and the stock SP V3 is much taller than even the 200/60 K3.

Metzeler and Pirelli are affiliated and I personally use Metzeler SM (supermoto) tires and they "feel" like Pirellis. In general, for road use I recommend about 32 PSI front (cold) and 28 PSI rear (cold). For track day use I leave the front at 32 PSI cold and don't worry about it. The rear I generally start at 25 PSI cold and immediately check when coming off track. The rear should be 28-29 and NO higher; if so, bring it back down to 28 and re-check again after next session. Once it stabilizes at 28-29 then leave it alone.

I would recommend you go back to the stock tire for the V4/S/R. You won't find a better tire anywhere and the geometry changes needed when switching to a smaller diameter rear tire are not really worth the extra mileage in my opinion.
 
Apr 2018
434
135
NY
2012 1199s
Pirelli Rosso Corsa II's
6'2" 203lbs without gear.

Normally run 28psi hot for track, 33psi street

The bike feels lazy af when transitioning on the track. Like, I can lean over so far but then I have to literally pull the bike down to go faster. What kind of suspension settings should I have? I am pretty green on this stuff, I run mid pack during track days in intermediate, I use to be faster but age is catching up on me :)

Happy to talk via text if its easier.


Brandon
 
Feb 2017
116
10
USA
When moving from street tires to Pirelli slicks on an 1199, you want to make the rear shock length shorter right? If so, how many turns? Since the tire is increasing from 55 to 60. And should preload be adjusted?
 
Feb 2016
463
119
Long Island
First off, why did you switch to the Metzeler's? Is it for tire life? Have you compensated for the geometry change when switching to the Metzeler tire? 200/55 or 200/60 rear? The K3 is the harder compound so you are compromising grip over the stock tire and the stock SP V3 is much taller than even the 200/60 K3.

Metzeler and Pirelli are affiliated and I personally use Metzeler SM (supermoto) tires and they "feel" like Pirellis. In general, for road use I recommend about 32 PSI front (cold) and 28 PSI rear (cold). For track day use I leave the front at 32 PSI cold and don't worry about it. The rear I generally start at 25 PSI cold and immediately check when coming off track. The rear should be 28-29 and NO higher; if so, bring it back down to 28 and re-check again after next session. Once it stabilizes at 28-29 then leave it alone.

I would recommend you go back to the stock tire for the V4/S/R. You won't find a better tire anywhere and the geometry changes needed when switching to a smaller diameter rear tire are not really worth the extra mileage in my opinion.
I switched to Metzelers because Ive always ran Metzelers on bikes once it was time for tire changes and they always felt great. I have Metzeler M7 RR's on my S1000R, and I just put on the Metzeler Cruisetec's on my Harley Dyna which I love, especially running them with a pair of 13.5 inc rear ODC Monza piggy back shocks and the ODC Monza 2.0 inverted front end with a pair of Brembo .484 108mm radial brake calipers.

I like these Metezeler Racetec RR's yet I dont love them and I wish I bought the K2's over the K3's. I figured they were a medium compound and would last longer than the Pirellis. Ive ridden my friends 1299 with K2 tires and the overall handling feels better. Maybe it has to do with the fact we weigh the same and his suspension was set up a few days ago properly but the bike still felt better with the K2's before he dialed his suspension in. My bike with the K3's doesnt feel as stable as his 1299. I feel like when it goes into turns and comes out its not as stable as his 1299 and the front end feels a bit chattery if thats even a word. My suspension isnt dialed in and i bought the slacker digital sag checker to help me set it up.

Regarding setting up the sag on the 1299. Where and how do I start with the rear? Is it that collar right below the threads? I will use the slacker digital unit to help me set up the sag on the bike. Same with the front end. Where would I adjust the preload to set the sag up on the front.

And lastly. Setting the rebound and compression for the front. Is there a certain formula for this regarding rider weight? Would I dial them both back to 0 then turn them a certain amount of turns and then start adjusting up or down depending on how I like the feel?

You mentioned whether I compensated for the geometry change because of the rear tire. The original rear Pirelli size was 200/55/17 and the rear K3 that I have now is also 200/55/17. Would I still to compensate for geometry? Another reason I use the Metzelers is that my brother is a dealer so he gets them for me at cost. He isnt a parts unlimited dealer so he doesnt get Pirellis. Tucker Rocky used to sell Pirellis up until I think a year and half to two years ago. But I will be swapping out the K3's for the K2's in the next week or two. How are the K2's in comparison with the Pirellis? From what I understand Pirelli bought out Metzeler
 
Apr 2012
226
209
Irvine, CA
2012 1199s
Pirelli Rosso Corsa II's
6'2" 203lbs without gear.

Normally run 28psi hot for track, 33psi street

The bike feels lazy af when transitioning on the track. Like, I can lean over so far but then I have to literally pull the bike down to go faster. What kind of suspension settings should I have?
Brandon, this is not enough information to tell you exactly where you should be but it seems clear that your settings are not ideal. What size rear tire? When you stated you normally run 28 hot for track and 33 for street - I am not clear on what this means....are you only talking about the rear tire? Have you adjusted the suspension on your bike? If so, what was done?
 
Apr 2012
226
209
Irvine, CA
When moving from street tires to Pirelli slicks on an 1199, you want to make the rear shock length shorter right? If so, how many turns? Since the tire is increasing from 55 to 60. And should preload be adjusted?
No change in preload is required and based on skill level I generally don't recommend any change in preload from street to track as bike/rider sag is what it is. Just because you are on track does not change that. I can't tell you exactly how many turns you need to get the correct ride height as you need to measure this with a special tool but you can take some tape and mark a line and measure to maintain the same ride height but this IS NOT EASY. You have to put the bike on peg stands, loosen the lock nut on the bottom of the shock then remove the bottom shock bolt that is attached to the motor. If you try to adjust the ride height without doing this and you don't hold the preload lock rings in place you will end up adjusting the preload by accident as you lengthen or shorten the shock length.