- Apr 2012
- Irvine, CA
@shigeru, that is odd as the bike has plenty of trail. What tires/pressure are you running? Also what is your weight w/o gear?
Yes, you're right, 3 clicks out from full stiff instead of turns. I did push on the bike to attempt to get the front and rear moving at close to the same rate, but I don't think I'm great at judging that yet. It felt like it was in the right ballpark at least.I am happy to see that you realized there IS a difference between the diameter(s) for the V3 vs. 200/55 TD. 7.5 mm is the actual difference in radius....we are not worried about diameter because we are only dealing with the height from the axle out.
The oil weight and height are interesting and I would like to hear how you like it.
If you are using one, how far from the bottom of the fork is your travel indicator? I think you mean 3 clicks out with respect to your suspension settings....seems like this is the opposite of what you are thinking....have you pushed on the bike to see what the compression feels like and is this balanced with the rear? How is your tire wear.
Pressures seem fine.
What tire pressure would you recommend on my 1299. Im running Metzler Recetec RR K3'sI have found in life that you generally get what you pay for...my aim is to give something worth a lot away for FREE - on this forum. In person tuning is a different story... I am posting this thread to give back and to help people because I read through some of these threads and I routinely see information that is not accurate.
On this thread I will answer questions to help sort out your 848/1098/1198 and all Panigale setup basics and/or issues you may have.
I have been setting up bikes for 20 years for all sorts of riders and I have been very successful in doing so. I started down the path of learning how to do pretty much everything on my own because I didn't want to have to rely on others to fix my bike and I don't want flat rate mechanics who don't care about my safety cutting corners; I have experienced both situations more than once.
I have learned from folks like Dave Moss and David Behrend and setup supermoto, motocross, flat track, mini motard, road race and street bike
I am a WERA and AFM racer with top 5 finishes in expert superstock/superbike classes on bikes that I build from scratch and I even won some championships on Ducati when I was a younger man.
I am starting this thread to help so let's get to work...
First off, why did you switch to the Metzeler's? Is it for tire life? Have you compensated for the geometry change when switching to the Metzeler tire? 200/55 or 200/60 rear? The K3 is the harder compound so you are compromising grip over the stock tire and the stock SP V3 is much taller than even the 200/60 K3.What tire pressure would you recommend on my 1299. Im running Metzler Recetec RR K3's
I switched to Metzelers because Ive always ran Metzelers on bikes once it was time for tire changes and they always felt great. I have Metzeler M7 RR's on my S1000R, and I just put on the Metzeler Cruisetec's on my Harley Dyna which I love, especially running them with a pair of 13.5 inc rear ODC Monza piggy back shocks and the ODC Monza 2.0 inverted front end with a pair of Brembo .484 108mm radial brake calipers.First off, why did you switch to the Metzeler's? Is it for tire life? Have you compensated for the geometry change when switching to the Metzeler tire? 200/55 or 200/60 rear? The K3 is the harder compound so you are compromising grip over the stock tire and the stock SP V3 is much taller than even the 200/60 K3.
Metzeler and Pirelli are affiliated and I personally use Metzeler SM (supermoto) tires and they "feel" like Pirellis. In general, for road use I recommend about 32 PSI front (cold) and 28 PSI rear (cold). For track day use I leave the front at 32 PSI cold and don't worry about it. The rear I generally start at 25 PSI cold and immediately check when coming off track. The rear should be 28-29 and NO higher; if so, bring it back down to 28 and re-check again after next session. Once it stabilizes at 28-29 then leave it alone.
I would recommend you go back to the stock tire for the V4/S/R. You won't find a better tire anywhere and the geometry changes needed when switching to a smaller diameter rear tire are not really worth the extra mileage in my opinion.
Brandon, this is not enough information to tell you exactly where you should be but it seems clear that your settings are not ideal. What size rear tire? When you stated you normally run 28 hot for track and 33 for street - I am not clear on what this means....are you only talking about the rear tire? Have you adjusted the suspension on your bike? If so, what was done?2012 1199s
Pirelli Rosso Corsa II's
6'2" 203lbs without gear.
Normally run 28psi hot for track, 33psi street
The bike feels lazy af when transitioning on the track. Like, I can lean over so far but then I have to literally pull the bike down to go faster. What kind of suspension settings should I have?
No change in preload is required and based on skill level I generally don't recommend any change in preload from street to track as bike/rider sag is what it is. Just because you are on track does not change that. I can't tell you exactly how many turns you need to get the correct ride height as you need to measure this with a special tool but you can take some tape and mark a line and measure to maintain the same ride height but this IS NOT EASY. You have to put the bike on peg stands, loosen the lock nut on the bottom of the shock then remove the bottom shock bolt that is attached to the motor. If you try to adjust the ride height without doing this and you don't hold the preload lock rings in place you will end up adjusting the preload by accident as you lengthen or shorten the shock length.When moving from street tires to Pirelli slicks on an 1199, you want to make the rear shock length shorter right? If so, how many turns? Since the tire is increasing from 55 to 60. And should preload be adjusted?