Maybe someone knows a trick I do not. Here is what I know for sure:
The tank HAS to come off. There are wires cable tied to the plastic exhaust cover as well as two screws on top that hold it to the metal cover underneath. The only way those come out is by removing the tank.
Then, I tried to pull out the plastic cover. I could not pull it back, because of the way it is bent around by the shock. It has to be picked up to remove. But the subframe prevents moving the cover up. Therefore I had to remove the subframe.
So, there may be some special way to twist the cover out of there without subframe removal (didn't look like it to me). At a minimum the tank is coming off.
What I would say after doing this, don't be afraid of it. Everything is relatively easy to do, just time consuming.
Wrapping headers sounds like a terrible idea. Trapping heat underneath the wrap doesn't sound ideal when dealing with metals. Obviously that heat needs to escape. I don't know exactly how hot the headers get but I'm sure it's pretty damn hot. Wrapping seems like it would weaken the metal and the end result probably being what the image above shows. I could be wrong.
I'm not an expert with bike exhaust dynamics, I do have 30 years experience as an Aircraft engineer and all piston aero engine exhausts are 'tuned' using lengths and shapes to manipulate exhaust gas flow which is also manipulated with temperatures for example if 2 cylinders have varying lengths pipes due to an installation design engineers need to manipulate the velocity of the exhaust gas flow to 'tune' the escaping gas for optimal performance and back pressures, with the 1199 Panigale which I had the pleasure of owning for 7 years the heat shield on the rear cylinder loop served 2 purposes, 1 yes a some what useless heat sheild and 2 to also keep the exhaust gas temperature high in the loop to manipulate the velocity for tuning and to match the front pipe before entry to the cans.
Sorry to ramble in but for this I think that wrapping pipes could possibly mess with this principle and one can only guess as mentioned earlier by double0, the unknown of wrapping causing fatigue in the pipe material.
The original use of exhaust wrap was for cars, the idea being to keep underhood temperatures lower so the engine could have access to air that was less hot. It's hard on pipes. Wrap can cause excessive heat and hold and trap moisture and detritus against your exhaust, which will shorten the life of the exhausts
Pipe wrapping comes from NASCAR, where its purpose was to cheaply reduce temperature in well-filled engine bays. Its current use on custom bikes is a visual theme that builders apparently like, but it has no function. If you walk through racing paddocks at MotoGP or World Superbike events, you will see no woven fiberglass tape wrapped around pipes
Some years ago John Wittner (builder of Battle of the Twins Moto Guzzis) warned against the use of such wrapping on titanium pipes, which overheat, react with oxygen, and transform into a mass of loose yellow flakes. During the two-stroke era in 500cc Grand Prix, bikes appeared for the Japanese GP with pipes insulated by various means. This was done to meet new noise regulations. Later, it turned out to have undesired tuning effects so its use was discontinued
I have wrapped exhausts on different bikes for different reasons. Yes, what mhaddad showed can definitely be a consequence of wrapping headers. The trapped heat can cause metallurgy issues if the pipes get too hot.
For me, the benefits of reduced leg heat and reduced heat stress on the electronics is worth replacing the header if it fails.
Definitely good info and something to think about if you are considering wrapping.
Also there will not be tuning issues with 4 strokes. Two strokes are completely different and are much more sensitive to heat in the pipe with their expansion chambers.