Woodcraft Bar End Slider Assembly and Lever Guards

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As part of prepping my bike for the track, I wanted to put on some lever protectors.

I never thought that they were all that necessary if one wasn't racing; but then one day I had some contact passing someone on the brakes into a corner (my knee, his bar). Whoops. Anyway, that event and the realization that they do provide some protection to the levers in case of a crash have changed my mind.

So anyways, I like the look and reputation of the Woodcraft bar-end sliders and lever guards and was wondering if anybody has used them on the Panigale.
Woodcraft Bar End Slider Assembly with Lever Guard Mount - Sportbike Track Gear and Woodcraft Hand Guard Assembly (Both Sides) - Sportbike Track Gear

My first question is one of fit. Do the lever protectors fit the clip on directly? I think I may also need to purchase the bar-end sliders with mounts for the protectors, but I am not sure. The lever protectors are said to "mount universally to the cylindrical surface on any 7/8" racing clip-on," or one can purchase the bar-end slider assembly (which fits bars with a 5/8'' inner diameter) and comes with room to mount the lever guards.

My second question is also one of fit, but this time about me and not my bike. Do they interfere with executing a proper "screwdriver" grip on the inside bar during a turn?

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
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I have been using these for years and just installed them on my 1299S.

First off, wise choice. I was playing with a fellow Instructor at a track day in Florida about 4 years ago and as I was passing him on the brakes (on the inside) he swerved over a lil bit and contacted my brake lever. It sent me into an endo, but luckily the contact was only brief and the brakes let off and the rear wheel came back down. I didn't make the corner, but luckily I didn't crash. After that I said I would never ride with them again...it could have ended BADLY.

Personally, I use the bar end slider that has the mounting point for the lever guard. The bar end slider will fit directly into the OEM clip-ons, and the lever guard fits on the inside of the slider. Works great.

I use an exaggerated screwdriver grip and it doesn't interfere at all. I was worried about it also and at that particular track day I was pitted with Kyle Wyman who was down there doing some testing and he had some mounted on his bike. I sat on his bike and put my hand in the screwdriver grip position and didn't even notice the lever guard.

They are angled so they start out going downwards (away from your hand), then they curve back up to protect the lever. So they don't interfere with your grip at all.
 
BTW - I highly suggest the bar end slider option. You may already know this, but when we lowside on the track the vast majority of the damage is absorbed by the clip-on and rearsets (unless the bike flips of course). That is why I also highly suggest good fixed-peg rearsets.

That especially holds true on bikes with a narrow gas tank like the Panigale and Triumph 675. I have lowsided my 675 3 times without a single scratch to the bodywork or gas tank. It just slid on the clip-on and rearset.

Those bar end sliders can essentially add another inch of ground clearance for a sliding bike...which could be the different in being able to pick it up and keep racing...or having a ruined gas tank.
 
BTW - I highly suggest the bar end slider option. You may already know this, but when we lowside on the track the vast majority of the damage is absorbed by the clip-on and rearsets (unless the bike flips of course). That is why I also highly suggest good fixed-peg rearsets.

That especially holds true on bikes with a narrow gas tank like the Panigale and Triumph 675. I have lowsided my 675 3 times without a single scratch to the bodywork or gas tank. It just slid on the clip-on and rearset.

Those bar end sliders can essentially add another inch of ground clearance for a sliding bike...which could be the different in being able to pick it up and keep racing...or having a ruined gas tank.

I fully agree. Unfortunately the OEM bars have an "integrated" breaking point (sorry, in german it's called "Sollbruchstelle", Phl might help to translate). I've seen a lot of them broken after low siders, alway at the same point of the tube :(
One could replace the tubes with thicker ones (e.g. Ducabike). But then you get other problems in case of a crash with the steering stoppers: please read the thread http://ducati1299.com/ducati-1199/21511-r-g-steering-stoppers-good-bad-news.html

I think a good solution would be to use 1mm-thick 22mm Ti-Tubes, 15mm longer than the OEM ones. I bought some and will try to prep a good solution for my track bike this year. They are light, wont break but absorb crash energy by flexing and bending.
 
BTW - I highly suggest the bar end slider option. You may already know this, but when we lowside on the track the vast majority of the damage is absorbed by the clip-on and rearsets (unless the bike flips of course). That is why I also highly suggest good fixed-peg rearsets.

Thanks. Yes; I was thinking of getting the bar-end sliders.
What I was not sure of was the value of rear-sets. I have replaced my OEM pegs with some Rizoma pegs, and that made a world of difference in terms of feel and security on the bike; however, OEM peg placement suits me just fine. I hadn't thought of the benefits of a fixed peg. In fact, I thought that a fixed peg was just inviting something else to snap off in a low-side. I may have to reconsider that.

With that in mind, what do you recommend for rear-sets? I'd be doing this purely for function and not bling. I'd want something durable and reparable. Perhaps Woodcraft again?
 
Fixed peg rearsets basically act like a "slider" and are a great way to avoid crash damage. The peg might get ground down, but that is better than griding/denting/ruining something else.

I immediately have aftermarket rearsets installed on every bike before I race it.

Woodcraft are by far the best "bang for the buck" rearsets on the market. VERY crash worthy and high quality. The only downside is there isn't as much adjustability on them as others. But they are great (I have them on the 675 and R6) and replacement parts are easy to get.

Personally, I put Lightech rearsets on the Panigale for the extra adjustability. Very beefy and high quality.
 
I fully agree. Unfortunately the OEM bars have an "integrated" breaking point (sorry, in german it's called "Sollbruchstelle", Phl might help to translate). I've seen a lot of them broken after low siders, alway at the same point of the tube :(
One could replace the tubes with thicker ones (e.g. Ducabike). But then you get other problems in case of a crash with the steering stoppers: please read the thread http://ducati1299.com/ducati-1199/21511-r-g-steering-stoppers-good-bad-news.html

I think a good solution would be to use 1mm-thick 22mm Ti-Tubes, 15mm longer than the OEM ones. I bought some and will try to prep a good solution for my track bike this year. They are light, wont break but absorb crash energy by flexing and bending.

I low sided and everything was fine until my bike hit the grass and started flipping! I broke off both of my bars as well as a ton of other damage.
 

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I fully agree. Unfortunately the OEM bars have an "integrated" breaking point (sorry, in german it's called "Sollbruchstelle", Phl might help to translate). I've seen a lot of them broken after low siders, alway at the same point of the tube :(
One could replace the tubes with thicker ones (e.g. Ducabike). But then you get other problems in case of a crash with the steering stoppers: please read the thread http://ducati1299.com/ducati-1199/21511-r-g-steering-stoppers-good-bad-news.html

I think a good solution would be to use 1mm-thick 22mm Ti-Tubes, 15mm longer than the OEM ones. I bought some and will try to prep a good solution for my track bike this year. They are light, wont break but absorb crash energy by flexing and bending.

I never go to the track without spare clip-ons, levers, rearsets, fairing stay, bodywork, windscreen, clutch, gas tank, wheels, chain and sprockets.

I didn't know the OEM bars had a built in sacrificial point. I am sure there is a good reason for it though. Clip-ons are easier to replace than other stuff.
 
I never go to the track without spare clip-ons, levers, rearsets, fairing stay, bodywork, windscreen, clutch, gas tank, wheels, chain and sprockets.

I didn't know the OEM bars had a built in sacrificial point. I am sure there is a good reason for it though. Clip-ons are easier to replace than other stuff.

You might want to bring triple clamps too. Lolimage.jpg
 
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That was with r&g steering stops. Bend both forks Badly axle and rotors to boot. Now I'm working on having a full assortment of spares like you mentioned.
 

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