V4R clutch slipping

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May 1, 2022
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Chicago, IL
On the few times I've been able to go out and ride, I've noticed clutch slipping on several occasions. I'm trying to figure out if its me, or the bike, or some combination of both. I don't know how much of the following matters but I'm putting as much info out there as possible and please let me know if I've left anything out that may be helpful.

1. This is my first dry clutch bike, but I've been riding it the same way I've ridden my previous wet clutch bikes. That is, I don't abuse the clutch at all and I got the engagement zone on the V4R figured out early on.
2. It has a closed clutch cover (Woodcraft).
3. When the clutch slips, its pretty warm outside, >70F.
4. In milder temps the clutch begins to slip only after a while, and I only notice it when starting from a stop where the lever is almost all the way out before the clutch is fully engaged.
5. When its hot, the slipping is very noticeable. Towards the end of today's 30 minute ride in 78F with some stop-and-go, it'd slip in first gear with the clutch all the way out, and if I gave it too much throttle. I pretty much limped home towards the end.
6. Other than today and my first time riding it, I used the QS at pretty much all times, generally shifting between 4k and 6k rpms. On upshifts, I don't close throttle. On downshifts, the throttle is closed.
7. I'm the second owner, and I got it with about 1800 miles on it. I've ridden it about 150 miles since then. I noticed the slipping on my second ride out, when it was like 90F outside and back then it was only partway through the ride, and starting from a stop, no problems once in gear and accelerating.
8. I did read that its best to let dry clutches fully engage as soon as possible and I've ridden in that way from the get-go.
9. On the first few rides, I'd hold the clutch in at pretty much every light as that's been my habit. Reading around, it sounds like that's not ideal for dry clutches and while I'm not sure if that's true or not, in all my recent rides I've tried to stay in neutral at all stops for as long as possible.

I'm guessing I need to replace the plates. On the off chance that there's something else that may be going on, I'm reaching out to you folks first. Thoughts?
 
For sure start by checking the stack height of the friction and steel plates to see if they are in spec. Go from there
 
The V4's share the same 38mm +/-2mm spec for stack height?

My dog at my FSM.
 
Does a workshop/factory manual exist for the V4R? I see someone had a V4/S one posted, but I suspect the R would have its own. Google has turned up nothing.
 
As far as I know, it is (as it came from the factory).

I'm also wondering if the closed nature of the clutch prevents excess dust from getting out, and might be causing slippage? Maybe if I just pop open the cover and find a way to get some of the dust out....
 
Service life of the clutch is approx 2500 miles.
The slipper clutch causes the high wear, but gives very smooth downshift. You can try different weight springs for the clutch, to lengthen the service life. They are official Ducati parts, your dealer should help, you may want to try a 60Nm spring.
Replacing the plates is incredibly easy. There is a manual online for it somewhere, Google is your friend. You could just buy replacement friction plates, put them with the old steels and measure the stack height. It is very straightforward.
 
There is a special STM clutch tool. I bought it, and didn't need it. Impact driver removed the central nut, and them impacted it back on. I think the tightening torque MAY be 50Nm, but I have the memory of a goldfish.
 
Screenshot_20220527-054248_Drive.jpg
 
Thanks Rick!! Going to give my local dealer a shout tomorrow about picking up a FSM for my own records.
 
Well there's something I can add to the list of "Things I Never Ever EVER Want To Do Again". Was reading up and some folks on previous-gen Panigales seem to have similar issues of clutch slippage at high temps, and some traced it back to incorrect lever free-play. So I go to adjust the plunger position, and naturally pull the damn plunger out of the boot. 1:30hrs later... it's back in the boot, and probably in the same damn position it was to begin with! o_O For such a small bolt, it sure was hard as hell to turn! I nearly rounded off the adjustment nut before I gave up.

I figured I'd start with the easiest things first, and about the only thing easier than inspecting the clutch plates at this point seems to be the clutch lever freeplay, and possibly a bleeding of the clutch fluid.
 
Have you opened and inspected the clutch cover? Could have a leaking case seal. I’d have also gone the route of inspecting the clutch and free play. Clutch slave cylinders at least on the older V2s aren’t good requiring frequent bleeds. Allegedly they sorted the newer V4S with a “self-bleeding” clutch whatever that is.

But Rick’s your guy when it comes to V4R clutches.
 
Inspection of the actual clutch is next. The plan was to take it out today to see if the adjustment of free play resolved my issues, but work conspires against us. If time allows I'm going to do a quick bleed at the master cylinder to see if any air comes out, and if so, perhaps a full drain and fill of the system before the clutch inspection.
 

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