1199R Akrapovic/UpMap/RapiBike

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Gecko Based on the TuV issues and Db restrictions and other factors it probably makes the most sense to use the RapidBike Module.

JeffD, thank you for the Dyno Charts, this RB Module makes the most sense to me now, considering the "learning" factor of the product, my geographic altitude/location, and cost/benefit perspective.

The RB module also appears to be the best in terms of support, product development and ease of use.

For folks with onerous inspection requirements (TuV) or exhaust sniffing, noise restrictions (Larmshutze) this might be a strong option.
 
interesting to see that with a leaner A/F ratio the engine develops more torque/power.

The Ducati Slip-On Map seems to run really rich at full throttle over 7,000 rpm.

But A/F of 13:1 is still rich, Lambda 1 would be 14.7:1
 
I read all threads about RB, Akra, Termi and Upmap related topics.
To be honest, I'm getting more and more confused.

Okay, here is my situation:
Tricolore 2012: Street legal Ducati exhaust currently installed.
I have the "race" Termi slipons and the upmap stick in a box delivered with the bike, never used.
I am going to install the Akra full Ti systems next month.
There is no way I find somebody trustful here in Switzerland that could dyno my bike.
After all reading I dont want to install Tuneboy because the lack of support.

So: Am I correct if I replace the exhaust with the Akra full system, remove the servo motor and replace it with an removal adaptor (e.g. DUC.EE from VIZI-TEC, whether it's necessary or not), re-install the lambda probes and install RB module, that the bike works as it should? And if so, should I upmap with the Termi stick or not?

Sorry for asking: it's just that I am not experienced at all with this kind of performance tuning, I'm the bling guy... :)

I would go for the PCV with Autotune and Ignition module and two wide band Lamdas like the Dragon Lady. :cool:
 
I read all threads about RB, Akra, Termi and Upmap related topics.
To be honest, I'm getting more and more confused.

Okay, here is my situation:
Tricolore 2012: Street legal Ducati exhaust currently installed.
I have the "race" Termi slipons and the upmap stick in a box delivered with the bike, never used.
I am going to install the Akra full Ti systems next month.
There is no way I find somebody trustful here in Switzerland that could dyno my bike.
After all reading I dont want to install Tuneboy because the lack of support.

So: Am I correct if I replace the exhaust with the Akra full system, remove the servo motor and replace it with an removal adaptor (e.g. DUC.EE from VIZI-TEC, whether it's necessary or not), re-install the lambda probes and install RB module, that the bike works as it should? And if so, should I upmap with the Termi stick or not?

Sorry for asking: it's just that I am not experienced at all with this kind of performance tuning, I'm the bling guy... :)

Hi Gecko,

contact Daniel Deussen Leistungen - Deussen Engines, he is an expert in engine mappings, he can update your ECU with a specific Akra-Mapping (he is using Tuneboy and has developed the mapping (A/F ratio trim only; ignition timing stays as OEM) himself.

You can also visit him and he can do a custom tune at his bench as well. As he is located in the Bodensee area, maybe it's not too far away from your place....

Jogy
 
Last edited:
I read all threads about RB, Akra, Termi and Upmap related topics.
To be honest, I'm getting more and more confused.

Okay, here is my situation:
Tricolore 2012: Street legal Ducati exhaust currently installed.
I have the "race" Termi slipons and the upmap stick in a box delivered with the bike, never used.
I am going to install the Akra full Ti systems next month.
There is no way I find somebody trustful here in Switzerland that could dyno my bike.
After all reading I dont want to install Tuneboy because the lack of support.

So: Am I correct if I replace the exhaust with the Akra full system, remove the servo motor and replace it with an removal adaptor (e.g. DUC.EE from VIZI-TEC, whether it's necessary or not), re-install the lambda probes and install RB module, that the bike works as it should? And if so, should I upmap with the Termi stick or not?

Sorry for asking: it's just that I am not experienced at all with this kind of performance tuning, I'm the bling guy... :)

No need to get confused, a lot other stuff and options, but I can speak behalf of Rapid Bike , it really is a plug and play , put it on and almost forget about it, no need to worry about which map works better, how do I get it tuned and all that.... And of course as long as you buys it from A Rapid Bike dealer, you have our full support. Guaranteed!

Y.T.
https://www.facebook.com/rapidbikeusa
 
I read all threads about RB, Akra, Termi and Upmap related topics.
To be honest, I'm getting more and more confused.

Okay, here is my situation:
Tricolore 2012: Street legal Ducati exhaust currently installed.
I have the "race" Termi slipons and the upmap stick in a box delivered with the bike, never used.
I am going to install the Akra full Ti systems next month.
There is no way I find somebody trustful here in Switzerland that could dyno my bike.
After all reading I dont want to install Tuneboy because the lack of support.

So: Am I correct if I replace the exhaust with the Akra full system, remove the servo motor and replace it with an removal adaptor (e.g. DUC.EE from VIZI-TEC, whether it's necessary or not), re-install the lambda probes and install RB module, that the bike works as it should? And if so, should I upmap with the Termi stick or not?

Sorry for asking: it's just that I am not experienced at all with this kind of performance tuning, I'm the bling guy... :)

Thats what I did using the Ducati Full Termi Up-Map and the results were fine, I have no issues or problems whatsoever, even on track and pushed hard.

However, as the gentleman has also said there may be some better gains to be had with fuelling modules etc.
 
Thank you guys for all the input.
I guess that's going to be the plan: Rapid Bike Race module, no tuning on a dyno. Keeping the original lambda probes on the Akras (honestly I have no clue what these things are good for :( ).

I do not want to hijack this thread, but I hope you might indulge me for asking: I did install the Cordona quick shifter. I know that Tuneboy supports a blipper function supporting this sensor. Is there some similar function available on the RB Module?
 
Thank you guys for all the input.
I guess that's going to be the plan: Rapid Bike Race module, no tuning on a dyno. Keeping the original lambda probes on the Akras (honestly I have no clue what these things are good for :( ).

I do not want to hijack this thread, but I hope you might indulge me for asking: I did install the Cordona quick shifter. I know that Tuneboy supports a blipper function supporting this sensor. Is there some similar function available on the RB Module?

I think there is a way to use cardona QS with RB so no need to buy a RB QS sensor but the blipper function is not YET available , go with the RB , I can guarantee your satisfaction... You can also oorder it from Ducati Omaha as well , just in case if you can't fine a dealer in your country.
Y.T.
 
I have over the years used most of the tuning options avaliable. I have used dynojet with auto tune and ignition module. I have used Bazzaz with their auot tune I have use Woolich racing products I have used stand alone ecus Vipec and motec.
I currently have a 1199s with Rapid bike module. I was sceptical at first about the narrow band lamda auto tune but it works fantastic by far the easiest and best auto tune I have used and everyone involved with this product seems to want to help
 
I have over the years used most of the tuning options avaliable. I have used dynojet with auto tune and ignition module. I have used Bazzaz with their auot tune I have use Woolich racing products I have used stand alone ecus Vipec and motec.
I currently have a 1199s with Rapid bike module. I was sceptical at first about the narrow band lamda auto tune but it works fantastic by far the easiest and best auto tune I have used and everyone involved with this product seems to want to help

Thank you !

Y.T.
 
i see no added value to go from Termi add on system to AKRA ... apart from weight and looks...

be careful with timing and ignition when fiddling on the RB race module...
 
i see no added value to go from Termi add on system to AKRA ... apart from weight and looks...

be careful with timing and ignition when fiddling on the RB race module...

I agree.... we never recommend experimenting with the ign timing numbers which can lead to some unwanted end , the end user software does not allow to make drastic changes but it still can be dangerous . Plus, if one wants to extract every gram of HP , you need a very competent who can understand has has time to play with ignition timing .

Y.T.
 
Corse sstk software does not allow to play with timing ignition.. I am sure there is a reason... The pani mapping is very complicated. It has three overlaying maps , one of which decides when to pick which one of the other two.. I agree that. A custom mapping from an expert is to be preferred.. :)
 
I have over the years used most of the tuning options avaliable. I have used dynojet with auto tune and ignition module. I have used Bazzaz with their auot tune I have use Woolich racing products I have used stand alone ecus Vipec and motec.
I currently have a 1199s with Rapid bike module. I was sceptical at first about the narrow band lamda auto tune but it works fantastic by far the easiest and best auto tune I have used and everyone involved with this product seems to want to help

I would like to understand how those auto tune modules like RB "know" what the best performing A/F ratio actually is, for all the different engine load and engine speed conditions. Is this defined by the manufacturer based on its own testing of a specific engine or just based on a general knowledge about A/F ratio influence on rideability and performance?
 
I would like to understand how those auto tune modules like RB "know" what the best performing A/F ratio actually is, for all the different engine load and engine speed conditions. Is this defined by the manufacturer based on its own testing of a specific engine or just based on a general knowledge about A/F ratio influence on rideability and performance?

It doesn't "know" but it is told to keep it right about 13.2:1 AFR :) For most bikes that is a good starting point and usually the number where you get good power without damping a lot of fuel. You can go richer or leaner if you like! RB lets you fully manually adjust AFR . However that is where a competent dyno operator comes into play to extract the last drop of HP.

Please note, changing the default setting will change the AFR settings of entire map. Unfortunately, you can't specify what afr you want to use at what rpm or throttle but it can be done with the addition of My Tuning Bike modules.
 
It doesn't "know" but it is told to keep it right about 13.2:1 AFR :) For most bikes that is a good starting point and usually the number where you get good power without damping a lot of fuel. You can go richer or leaner if you like! RB lets you fully manually adjust AFR . However that is where a competent dyno operator comes into play to extract the last drop of HP.

Please note, changing the default setting will change the AFR settings of entire map. Unfortunately, you can't specify what afr you want to use at what rpm or throttle but it can be done with the addition of My Tuning Bike modules.

I did not know that narrow band Lamdas could even remotely be as precise in determining the AFR ratio? :eek:
 
I did not know that narrow band Lamdas could even remotely be as precise in determining the AFR ratio? :eek:

Why wouldn't it ? after all the narrow band lambda has NARROW range of adjustment which is set to be 14.7:1 and precisely at that point of adjustment, there is a voltage value 0-1 (0 to 1000 millivolts) and also a resistance value. It just doesn't have the range of Wide band lambda sensor.

What RB does with the factory O2 sensor is something none of the competitors have been able to do , why not use something that is already part of your closed loop system? instead of cutting it off. :)

Back to the subject, RB reads and converts that value as if it was 13.2:1 so why would you care what it is, if you have a bike with an O2 sensor that is programmed to work around 13.2:1 ratio (again this can be changed). If all bikes came with an O2 sensor just to do that? we wouldn't need any tuners :confused:

RB perfectly modulates the amount of injection by monitoring stock O2 sensors voltage and the resistance , if we think about it , it is not all that complicated. We always talk about AFR numbers but in reality all ecu receives is voltage and resistance value changes and each value has a meaning in the ECU programming .

A few weeks ago I went to the race track with Ljuice and one other customer who rides a 1098 race bike. since we have installed MWR wsbk filter on Leon's bike, I wanted to see the changes, it took 2 sessions for RB to make corrections (each session is 20 minutes and probably about 8-10 laps) after the 2nd session the changes in the correction maps nearly nothing, so I didn't even need to adjust anything. And the track is PBIR which has almost a mile long fast back straight away.

Now the 1098 race bike , we installed RB EVO along with 2 My Tuning bike Modules and the bike already has a nemesis ecu that was supposedly tune by a famous tuner in S. Flo. we also installed MWR race filters (by the way , our choice of filter) . And we rode the bike about the shop before installation and it was so far off , previously the owner did a track day right after he bought the bike at the same track and the bike would not pull at all on that back straight.

So , back to the track day, it took some convincing to have Leon ride the 1098 ( don't know why :D but he hated that bike ) he did 4 laps on it came back to the pits and I looked at the correction map and the tuner did absolutely nothing with the rear cylinder , since those bikes have an O2 sensor bung on the front cylinder header , the only thing that was near perfect was wide open throttle front cylinder , rear was extremely lean and the front cylinder was damping fuel except for the wide open part. I excepted the changed and the next session Leon went out for 4 laps again but this time it really took some serious convincing because he again hated almost everything about the poor bike . he came back and we looked at the correction again , we were getting closer now much less than 10% of changes and the owner was amazed. Leon didn't go out again in this bike , Don't know why :cool: but the point is ones we bring the AFR back in to the adjustable range , we leave it alone , let the RB work in the background.

Same thing for the Panigale with or without the My tuning bike modules, that is why we tell people ride it at least 200-250 miles and except the changes, then don't mess with it again , there is no need , reason we do that is , every bike is different and no matter how well of a base map you build, it it wasn't done on your bike , you will never be close to being perfect (hello famous ECU flashers , I hope they read this! ) .

Even here at the shop most of our Panigale customers that have the RB installed, we always compare their maps and corrections, not one is the same as the other even with the same mods.

The only downside is with the narrow band sensors, RB keeps logging and keeps logging until it has accumulated enough data then starts to correct, most of the time where we don't spend too much time in the areas, you won't see much of changes yet , this is due to RB not jumping in and making immediate changes without learning the frequency of the signal.

Just think about what you have to do to Panigale to get the PCV + ignition module + auto tune.

You need :
PCV
Igntion module
1 dual channel Auto tune device
ECU flash
18mm O2 sensor bungs welded in the header pipes (which by the way you are very limited of space unless you have full termi already installed.

Now we all know , that is no secret, PCV can NOT do anything below 6000RPM and 19% throttle.

After installing the PCV + ignition module and getting the O2 sensor bungs welded, you need an ECU flash to be able to adjust the closed loop are and again if you can't do that, tuning is useless since most of Panigale problems are down low , correct?

let's say you got all that done, the Ignition module needs to be mapped (how good is it if you have bunch of zero values in the cells)
and according to Dynojet, you still need to dyno tune / check the bike in order to establish your base map and when this is done happily ever after, they recommend disconnection it (not too sure about his one but I did read it somewhere just can find it now) , I still don't know why and how would the bike know how to adjust? please note: I am not bashing any product, these are simple facts.

Alright, lets say you have done all of that and you are happy with the set up and

As of right now you have total of 3 boxes of electronics and a wiring spaghetti on the bike, were was all that fitted? would an average guy go thru with all that?

With Rapid Bike, you have a wiring harness and the module itself. $845 retail :D free shipping
vs $1160 + ECU flash + dyno tuning and shop labor?

RB can be installed in 2-2.5 hours all day long by a technician who is familiar with the bike and you are done, I can guarantee you a worry free ride. and your bike has not been tortured on the dyno.

RB ignition maps are modification specific , each base map has its own ignition map as well. Map switch can be added in order to have to maps with different afr settings.
 
Why wouldn't it ? after all the narrow band lambda has NARROW range of adjustment which is set to be 14.7:1 and precisely at that point of adjustment, there is a voltage value 0-1 (0 to 1000 millivolts) and also a resistance value. It just doesn't have the range of Wide band lambda sensor.

What RB does with the factory O2 sensor is something none of the competitors have been able to do , why not use something that is already part of your closed loop system? instead of cutting it off. :)

Back to the subject, RB reads and converts that value as if it was 13.2:1 so why would you care what it is, if you have a bike with an O2 sensor that is programmed to work around 13.2:1 ratio (again this can be changed). If all bikes came with an O2 sensor just to do that? we wouldn't need any tuners :confused:

RB perfectly modulates the amount of injection by monitoring stock O2 sensors voltage and the resistance , if we think about it , it is not all that complicated. We always talk about AFR numbers but in reality all ecu receives is voltage and resistance value changes and each value has a meaning in the ECU programming .

A few weeks ago I went to the race track with Ljuice and one other customer who rides a 1098 race bike. since we have installed MWR wsbk filter on Leon's bike, I wanted to see the changes, it took 2 sessions for RB to make corrections (each session is 20 minutes and probably about 8-10 laps) after the 2nd session the changes in the correction maps nearly nothing, so I didn't even need to adjust anything. And the track is PBIR which has almost a mile long fast back straight away.

Now the 1098 race bike , we installed RB EVO along with 2 My Tuning bike Modules and the bike already has a nemesis ecu that was supposedly tune by a famous tuner in S. Flo. we also installed MWR race filters (by the way , our choice of filter) . And we rode the bike about the shop before installation and it was so far off , previously the owner did a track day right after he bought the bike at the same track and the bike would not pull at all on that back straight.

So , back to the track day, it took some convincing to have Leon ride the 1098 ( don't know why :D but he hated that bike ) he did 4 laps on it came back to the pits and I looked at the correction map and the tuner did absolutely nothing with the rear cylinder , since those bikes have an O2 sensor bung on the front cylinder header , the only thing that was near perfect was wide open throttle front cylinder , rear was extremely lean and the front cylinder was damping fuel except for the wide open part. I excepted the changed and the next session Leon went out for 4 laps again but this time it really took some serious convincing because he again hated almost everything about the poor bike . he came back and we looked at the correction again , we were getting closer now much less than 10% of changes and the owner was amazed. Leon didn't go out again in this bike , Don't know why :cool: but the point is ones we bring the AFR back in to the adjustable range , we leave it alone , let the RB work in the background.

Same thing for the Panigale with or without the My tuning bike modules, that is why we tell people ride it at least 200-250 miles and except the changes, then don't mess with it again , there is no need , reason we do that is , every bike is different and no matter how well of a base map you build, it it wasn't done on your bike , you will never be close to being perfect (hello famous ECU flashers , I hope they read this! ) .

Even here at the shop most of our Panigale customers that have the RB installed, we always compare their maps and corrections, not one is the same as the other even with the same mods.

The only downside is with the narrow band sensors, RB keeps logging and keeps logging until it has accumulated enough data then starts to correct, most of the time where we don't spend too much time in the areas, you won't see much of changes yet , this is due to RB not jumping in and making immediate changes without learning the frequency of the signal.

Just think about what you have to do to Panigale to get the PCV + ignition module + auto tune.

You need :
PCV
Igntion module
1 dual channel Auto tune device
ECU flash
18mm O2 sensor bungs welded in the header pipes (which by the way you are very limited of space unless you have full termi already installed.

Now we all know , that is no secret, PCV can NOT do anything below 6000RPM and 19% throttle.

After installing the PCV + ignition module and getting the O2 sensor bungs welded, you need an ECU flash to be able to adjust the closed loop are and again if you can't do that, tuning is useless since most of Panigale problems are down low , correct?

let's say you got all that done, the Ignition module needs to be mapped (how good is it if you have bunch of zero values in the cells)
and according to Dynojet, you still need to dyno tune / check the bike in order to establish your base map and when this is done happily ever after, they recommend disconnection it (not too sure about his one but I did read it somewhere just can find it now) , I still don't know why and how would the bike know how to adjust? please note: I am not bashing any product, these are simple facts.

Alright, lets say you have done all of that and you are happy with the set up and

As of right now you have total of 3 boxes of electronics and a wiring spaghetti on the bike, were was all that fitted? would an average guy go thru with all that?

With Rapid Bike, you have a wiring harness and the module itself. $845 retail :D free shipping
vs $1160 + ECU flash + dyno tuning and shop labor?

RB can be installed in 2-2.5 hours all day long by a technician who is familiar with the bike and you are done, I can guarantee you a worry free ride. and your bike has not been tortured on the dyno.

RB ignition maps are modification specific , each base map has its own ignition map as well. Map switch can be added in order to have to maps with different afr settings.

Interesting. I will refer it to Alain to hear what he says as I am not a tuning boffin, but I know the PowerCommander equipped bikes tuned by Alain win most of the bike championships in SA.
 

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