1199s Electronic Suspension

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Bad_Habit

Joined
Sep 25, 2020
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Location
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i have a question a company mada a overhaul on my suspension, now i reinstalled it and now do i have to do reset something on the suspension or does it selfadjust to the set settiings?
 
You need to get the preload adjusted for your weight in riding gear first. The 1199S doesn't self adjust like the V4S and self adjust isn't the right word. It is more of a semi-active adjustment. The bike makes adjustments based on speed, lean angle, braking etc.

On the 1199S, you make adjustments per riding mode using the electronics.
 
Everything will have to be reset. Compression, rebound, ride height, static sag and preload. Go watch some Dave Moss videos on You Tube ("2 clicks out" is the tag for his videos) and it'll be fairly easy to do.
 
sorry i was not clear enogouth on my original question, i know presetting Preload and my "clicks" and i know it is not an active electronic souspension (and sorry i did not mention it originally it is an S and it has electronic "clicks" so i removed the suspension with set clicks and reinstalled it and now is the question, does the suspension know where the clicks were/are?
 
After a rebuild with new fluid, the adjustment points are going to change. You'll need to start at your former 'baseline' (clicks) and see if things have changed and make the appropriate changes to get the feeling and performance you had before. Be sure to slow the rebound down as much as possible to prevent adverse quick rebound problems that can cause tire wear patterns and unstable steering. Did you go back to the stock fluid or did you get heavier fluid? Mine is set up with 15W Maxima in the front and 10W in the rear with 60psi in the gas chamber in the rear. I'm 92 Kilos, so the thicker fluid is a must in my application.
 
Why do you only have 60psi in your shock? That sounds extremely low?
I would have thought like most shocks 10 to 12 bar or 150-175psi?
 
The 10 bar (Stock) pressure in the rear is used to prevent cavitation, although it also acts like an 'air spring' and provides extra pressure for the extension of the shock. Since the 2.5W 'stock' oil (at the same pressure) will cavitate more easily than the 10W I'm using, more pressure is now not really necessary. It may have an air spring affect, but it's pressurized to keep cavitation down and the fluid dynamics of the valving consistent. I'm already running 10W in the rear, instead of the 2.5w the shock came with (It's a Sachs). With the thicker fluid the rebound adjuster can be closed with the shock compressed and it will not extend, the same for compression. It would not do that with the stock fluid and pressure. I could run more pressure, but it doesn't feel like it's necessary. Even with only 4 bar (60 psi) it's very stiff, the adjusters have more immediate affect on the feel, and are much firmer now compared to stock pressures and oil. I actually have two rear shocks to test against each other. The other is totally stock, that I got from one of the members in this forum. My shock, with 4x thicker fluid and 60 psi in gas chamber is notably stiffer and firmer than the stock shock with normal oil/pressure. I have yet to run it so hard that it feels like it's losing hydraulic control from getting too hot.

A lot of people get onto the treadmill of 'if the book says so you must do it that way'. Which is why I run 30/32 F/R tire pressure on the street instead of the stock tire pressures (34/38) and have changed the ergonomics of the hand controls, rear sets, f/r ride heights and suspension settings to tune the bike for how I want it to feel. The factory settings and numbers are just baselines from which to deviate to make the bike do what you want it to do and ride the way you prefer. So, yeah, it works for me. Your results may vary.
 
Sheikh said:
The 10 bar (Stock) pressure in the rear is used to prevent cavitation, although it also acts like an 'air spring' and provides extra pressure for the extension of the shock. Since the 2.5W 'stock' oil (at the same pressure) will cavitate more easily than the 10W I'm using, more pressure is now not really necessary. It may have an air spring affect, but it's pressurized to keep cavitation down and the fluid dynamics of the valving consistent. I'm already running 10W in the rear, instead of the 2.5w the shock came with (It's a Sachs). With the thicker fluid the rebound adjuster can be closed with the shock compressed and it will not extend, the same for compression. It would not do that with the stock fluid and pressure. I could run more pressure, but it doesn't feel like it's necessary. Even with only 4 bar (60 psi) it's very stiff, the adjusters have more immediate affect on the feel, and are much firmer now compared to stock pressures and oil. I actually have two rear shocks to test against each other. The other is totally stock, that I got from one of the members in this forum. My shock, with 4x thicker fluid and 60 psi in gas chamber is notably stiffer and firmer than the stock shock with normal oil/pressure. I have yet to run it so hard that it feels like it's losing hydraulic control from getting too hot.

A lot of people get onto the treadmill of 'if the book says so you must do it that way'. Which is why I run 30/32 F/R tire pressure on the street instead of the stock tire pressures (34/38) and have changed the ergonomics of the hand controls, rear sets, f/r ride heights and suspension settings to tune the bike for how I want it to feel. The factory settings and numbers are just baselines from which to deviate to make the bike do what you want it to do and ride the way you prefer. So, yeah, it works for me. Your results may vary.
Click to expand...
I think all you have done is allow or increase the chances of cavitation and add hysteresis to your damping.
 
Last edited:

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