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Wire kit also contains a new shifter arm which is needed for the shift rod to clear the swingarm bracket
1299 GP shift kit installation notes
- Thread starter kismetcapitan
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- 1299 installation kit notes shift
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as is often the case, I turn a 30min job into a 3 hour oneMy kit came without instructions, so I was left to puzzle it out.
I got part#96580081B, which includes a gear control lever that holds the shift rod at a different angle; no rubbing. And of course the overpriced cable.
So this is how I did it:
- remove lower left fairing
- remove clutch slave cylinder
- unclip all those zip ties holding various lines together
- disconnect cable leading to shift rod
- unscrew shift rod from gear control lever
- unscrew and remove gear control lever
At this point, one may reattach the slave cylinder.
- remove shift lever (this can be done without removing the rearset, and pull out the shift lever/shift rod assembly.
- flip the shift rod over and reattach. The black plastic box on the shift lever should now be facing downwards.
- install new gear control lever, with the FLAT SIDE facing outwards.
- reattach shift rod and lefthand foot shift lever
- reattach shift rod to the gear control lever.
- plug in new fancy-pants wire between the shift lever wire and the bike's stock location.
- test the shiftlever to make sure you have enough clearance to shift both up AND down.
What mainly threw me off was the shift rod - I kept putting it it facing downwards. Lots of trial and error. Hopefully whoever installs this next won't blunder about blindly as I have
Kismetcapitan
Your note said "Remove Clutch slave cylinder". Did you mean remove the bolt on the clutch control that is in the way taking the gear control lever out?
I can't seem to find away to take the gear control lever out without removing Clutch control bolt.
i'm afraid if removing the clutch (bolt,brake hose-feeder), you introduce air into the system and will need to be breed out.
Had anyone encounter this issue?
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NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO!!!!!!!
The entire slave cylinder is bolted to the engine case by three bolts. undo those, and the entire thing comes out, hanging by the hydraulic banjo, which you NEVER need to touch!
The entire slave cylinder is bolted to the engine case by three bolts. undo those, and the entire thing comes out, hanging by the hydraulic banjo, which you NEVER need to touch!
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If you are reffering to the DP Reverse QS, yes it should have 4 wires.. the Standard QS unit has 2 wires..
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Thanks for the quick reply... then part number 96580081B does not work with the 959 OEM QS?
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well....I recently installed a set of CNC rearsets, and wouldn't you know it? I had to flip everything around back to stock position in order to keep my GP shift, which is done at the rearset, It also meant removing the short wire "harness".
So I've now got the GP shift "kit" sitting around doing nothing. Anyone want to make an offer to pick it up for cheap? lol
So I've now got the GP shift "kit" sitting around doing nothing. Anyone want to make an offer to pick it up for cheap? lol
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I just bought a set of CNC rearsets. What do I need to do to switch it to GP shift?
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thought I'd bump this thread since I changed over. Biggest plus is easy upshifts. Very simple and satisfying job.
I machined about 3mm off the original lug with a drill press and router bit, being ali its pretty soft. If you were a dab hand with a file you could do a good job. Then turned then shift rod over and you're nearly done. Had to offer it up a few times shaving a mil at time, pretty close clearance to the swingarm gear.
Didnt have to touch the clutch slave, managed to get it with a ball head allen key. The whole job was a few hours, very fiddly to get the lever at the right height, essentially you have to dissemble the rear set each time, dont forget to line the gearbox spline dot with the dots on the lever. Most time consuming part was swapping the pins.
This was original, all you do is swap red and black, a jewellers screwdriver is what you want but I did it with a sewing machine needle ground to shape. Saving a few bucks was a side benefit, but mostly its the time.
I machined about 3mm off the original lug with a drill press and router bit, being ali its pretty soft. If you were a dab hand with a file you could do a good job. Then turned then shift rod over and you're nearly done. Had to offer it up a few times shaving a mil at time, pretty close clearance to the swingarm gear.
Didnt have to touch the clutch slave, managed to get it with a ball head allen key. The whole job was a few hours, very fiddly to get the lever at the right height, essentially you have to dissemble the rear set each time, dont forget to line the gearbox spline dot with the dots on the lever. Most time consuming part was swapping the pins.
This was original, all you do is swap red and black, a jewellers screwdriver is what you want but I did it with a sewing machine needle ground to shape. Saving a few bucks was a side benefit, but mostly its the time.
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Still have this? Ill send you a PM
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