2016-2017 Panigale R : What is the BEST FlTTING lithium battery brand & part number that lines up BEST with both terminals w/out modding the box?

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I was considering this as well. Shorai says do not use on any charging system over 15v

Sounds like they like a low volt high amp charge and I do not think that is how the stock system works

I saw a lith ion 8 pack explode in a friends trailer

That was 15 years ago tho...
 
Currently available Lithium batteries are LiFe in chemistry. They are much more suitable in vehicles with heat and variable voltage levels for charging. Not to be confused with Lithium Ion in cell phones or radio control hobby. I used an antigravity LiFe in my 1199 without issue. I don't have the exact model in front of me but it is a full size direct fit. I did the same for my MV Agusta F3 800.

Make sure you have the correct battery tender with lithium option. I don't even use it over the riding season but I do during the winter since it could sit for a month. The 1199 shows voltage on the dash so look at that as well if concerned. It is the voltage that matters.
 
Battery tender??? Definitely not unless the bike sits in the living room and gets ridden to Starbucks 2 times a year. If your building these bikes from ground up and using custom wiring harnesses and connectors there is no such thing as a tender being used. Running a small Battery like the Shorai LFX14A2-BS12 you will want a external bench test battery to power up the bike for diagnostic stuff since the small battery will run out of juice fast.
 
Not just diagnostics what about cold start?

Bike was so lean down low w Termi pipe and their old map (2014) it would take 1 or 2k degrees of crank rotation to hit. And that was with stock air filter...

Hoping with new tune it will light quicker but who knows? If not I will add a cold start plug where I can connect to car batt but that only helps when near the garage

Maybe with the exhaust I will be running there will still be room down below to mount larger battery? I doubt it...

How quick does V4 hit? Twice as many holes gotta help there
 
Going to order an antigravity atz-7
Does anyone have experience with them ?

1.3 lbs 150 cold cranking amps

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Yes cold start issues all go away once the bike is properly tuned allnthese bikes 99's, V4's etc all are so far off and way lean low end super rich on the high.

Stock factory map on all 99's absolutely horrible.
 

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i have analyzed a broken Aliant battery.
i found that
a) the bms has killed the battery because of a defect in one voltage measuring channel.
b) the bms only starts working at load end (14,6v)

a and b has nothing to do with each other.

best for LiFe lifetime is if it never (the less the better) goes complete full, drift around 80% or so.
this is more or less the case in my several bikes.
but that (b) means that the battery, at least this aliant, never would be balanced.
so it is imho not a bad idea to load with a tender once a year. at begin of the season, not at the end.
dont store it full loaded.

is that true for other brands too? nobody knows until its opened and checked.
in my opinion the best battery is the one with a additional external balancer connector.
 
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Thx Mick. Hope mine ends up right

Shorai comes only partially charged. Guess that’s why. How does one keep batt from not going to full charge???
 
Don14R said:
How does one keep batt from not going to full charge???
Click to expand...
depends on the hardware.
my nolights-Honda would charge to 15,5volts. that's why it has no longer an alternator.
on any of our street bikes, with lights on, voltage reaches never 14.6.
one should keep an eye on that.
 
I was under the impression that yes, lithium batteries do not require trickle charging and can sit for months and months while maintaining a charge—but this is when there is absolutely no draw on them. Our bikes, even when “off”, still have computers running in the background so that’s something to keep in mind.

For me, in practice, this has meant over the winter, I did not use a trickle charger but once a month or two, put it on the trickle for a day. No issues. If I were leaving the bike for a year, I’d put it on a lithium-specific trickle charger such as the CTEK Powersport charger, which accommodates both lead acid AND lithium with two different modes, and is therefore a good buy, IMHO.

Alternerively, if you already own a lithium-specific trickle charger and have the line in the garage easily accessible, theres no reason NOT to throw it on the charger when not riding. It can only help maintain the battery’s health.

My two cents.
 
the lithium battery i had on my race - 1199 had a big connector on the battery cables.

that way i just unplugged it at the end of the day. next time around, plugged it in and started right up.
 
That’s how I always set up a race bike

But all mine had external starters and no charging system

This is completely different
 
Yeah, not sure if I’d run total loss on the street :D
 
Half hour session on the track prolly throw more of a charge at it than half hour on the street

Higher rpm

Or do you mean riding 30 mins and shutting the bike off for a while and then needing it to start again so you can ride back?
 
Woolich platform and software. The changes are drastic from bottom to top so everything is wrong stock is fixed with the tune. Smoother throttle range no flat spots, better fuel/air, easier starts, etc....

ecos said:
What program you used to tune it? Besides the graph clear improvement, what changes do you notice?
Click to expand...
 
Mick1976 said:
Woolich platform and software. The changes are drastic from bottom to top so everything is wrong stock is fixed with the tune. Smoother throttle range no flat spots, better fuel/air, easier starts, etc....
Click to expand...

Does your assessment of the quality of the OEM tune include the 1199 SL Race Map?
 
There is no one right map

Not for any bike

Even if you only always ride at the same track

One day it might be 75° 30.1” 600’ corrected and then next time it’s 90° 27.4” 3500+ feet. Different atmospheric conditions require different maps

Then there is this other unexplained phenomena where no 2 motors run exactly the same. Even w cnc ported heads and even if the same guy degreed the cams
 

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