2020 V4S or 2019 V4R if not FOR RACING

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For the experts in here

If you are not racing, no problem with the 1100 cc engine

what would be the better bike?

A 2020 V4S

Or a

2019 V4 R

They are 7,500 dlls difference

Talking about better performance, suspension, power on track, trackday use
 
For the experts in here

If you are not racing, no problem with the 1100 cc engine

what would be the better bike?

A 2020 V4S

Or a

2019 V4 R

They are 7,500 dlls difference

Talking about better performance, suspension, power on track, trackday use
I have a V4R for racing but if I was using it on the road only I would definitely go the v4s in my opinion the V4R is overpriced for what you get, the ohlins rear shock is a low spec and the forks pretty much the same. If the v4s was 1000cc I would have purchased for racing.
 
I have a V4R for racing but if I was using it on the road only I would definitely go the v4s in my opinion the V4R is overpriced for what you get, the ohlins rear shock is a low spec and the forks pretty much the same. If the v4s was 1000cc I would have purchased for racing.

Thanks for the input man, that is just what I think

Do you think, a 2020 BASE V4, will be a better choice? And if you what upgrade to top of the line Öhlins forks and shock, and maybe some light weight wheels?
 
This is what I did. Got a base and upgraded how I want. I don’t care for the electronic Öhlins and the stock wheels aren’t much heavier than the ones on the S
 
Thanks for the input man, that is just what I think

Do you think, a 2020 BASE V4, will be a better choice? And if you what upgrade to top of the line Öhlins forks and shock, and maybe some light weight wheels?
If you don't want the electronic suspension then it could be worth looking at, I bought a set of marchesini magnesium wheels same as superlegarra but in gloss Black, they were $3,600 USD. You can get a set of fgrt forks for around $2500. Rear shock around $1800 I will upload some pictures soon of our race bike has a lot of stuff on it.
 
I'm no expert, but I bought a 2019 V4 based model for track use only (not racing), and made the mods I wanted. And I could not be happier with the bike.
From what's been shared in the preliminary reviews, the 2020s are "better/smoother/faster" but personally I like the violent aggressive power delivery of the 2018/2019s... and the torque of the 1,103cc engine.
That said, modifications add up. Here's the running list of mine, showing total costs (tax included). The mods rated by importance on the track, I would say: 1) radiator guard!, 2) stompgrip, 3) race seat, 4) shock, 5) forks, 6) tall windscreen, and 7) forged wheels.
I think you cannot go wrong with any of these V4s, but this was my solution.

mods.jpg
 
dry clutch on the v4r. so add $3kish to your S if you want that. S will probably be a better fit for most people, easier suspension adjustments, more low end grunt etc.

Myself, I would have a hard time deciding between the 2, but would probably go S for the simple fact it probably wont cost as much to fix bits and bobs when they break or grow old.
 
There is always a better bike than yours, get the base and an S is "better", get the S and the R is "better" get the R and well the new SL is definitely "better" according to the journo's and owners who have or will be splashing out. All of them are "better" than my 1299! Point is that even a base model will be a fantastic bike, Frys bike sounds great and you can chip away at upgrades as it suits your budget plus you get to appreciate the changes, but I will just get a common 2020 S because i wont appreciate the differences between high end upgrades and the stock gear. In another thread a similar discussion came up about the SL and what it boils down to is get what you like, if you dont know what you like then it doesnt matter what you get!

I am not speaking from experience as Ive only ridden an S a few times, but I cant see you going wrong with either bike.
 
I haven’t ridden the v4, just my 1299s. The way I look at it is it is better to have a bit more displacement to produce more torque and consequently more HP at lower RPM. This stresses the engine less and should make the engine last longer with less maintenance. If you aren’t racing, capacity limits don’t matter. Save the money and go with an S or a base as others have said.
 
I'm no expert, but I bought a 2019 V4 based model for track use only (not racing), and made the mods I wanted. And I could not be happier with the bike.
From what's been shared in the preliminary reviews, the 2020s are "better/smoother/faster" but personally I like the violent aggressive power delivery of the 2018/2019s... and the torque of the 1,103cc engine.
That said, modifications add up. Here's the running list of mine, showing total costs (tax included). The mods rated by importance on the track, I would say: 1) radiator guard!, 2) stompgrip, 3) race seat, 4) shock, 5) forks, 6) tall windscreen, and 7) forged wheels.
I think you cannot go wrong with any of these V4s, but this was my solution.

View attachment 29104

No track fairings?

Exhaust in the future?

For me, I would only track as well. I dont want S mainly because of the electronic suspension. Your Ohlins are better than R ones (I think). I like R package as track weapon but not the price.

I believe 2020 new fairings, black subframe, and electronic aid adjustment is good thing.
 
I was in the S vs R boat. I bought a 2020 R.

After spending a season on a bike with a FKR front end and a TTX GPv2 shock I don't really care for OE Ohlins of any sort anymore. I preferred manual suspension because I'm replacing it and the electronic stuff means you'll either have to find a block off setup or stare at a CEL. The R wins on that front. If you are frequenting tracks with straights long enough for the R to stretch its legs it's obviously the faster bike on the top end. I also suspect that the R's "lesser" bottom end/mid-range power is easier to get out of a corner faster than the S/base. I think the R delivers power the way journalists and racers describe factory race bikes. Really linear, really predictable, really manageable. That's how you make lap time IMO. Violent/menacing/relentless etc is exhilarating to ride and makes you feel like you're setting the lap record even when you're 10 seconds adrift but if you're wanting to chase that lap record that's not what you want out of the machine.
 
No track fairings?

Exhaust in the future?

For me, I would only track as well. I dont want S mainly because of the electronic suspension. Your Ohlins are better than R ones (I think). I like R package as track weapon but not the price.

I believe 2020 new fairings, black subframe, and electronic aid adjustment is good thing.

All good questions and ideas. I debated getting track fairings heavily and priced out a few options as well as each OEM body panel and concluded that I'll risk it. Since life is short, I'll "use the good china set" now. My plan is to live with ugly low-side scratched-up fairings, if that happens, and replace body panels as necessary, if they're outright broken. This is my strategy, versus a guaranteed ~$1,000 cost for a set of track fairings (plus I don't like storing any extra parts more than is absolutely necessary). I know I'm rolling the dice a bit, but ALL of this stuff is expensive, even on easy days, so I'm not too worried about replacing body work, give or take.

As for exhaust, well, yeah, I would like the full Ti Akro system, but the price with installation is pretty steep, and I'm, not crazy about the whole bike needing to be disassembled for the install. And honestly, I think the bike is fast enough already. In 15 track days on my old (crashed) 2018 S and now my 2019 base, I've not seen any faster bike on the straights (though I've not been side-to-side with an R yet ;) My strategy here is to save the $6,000 and put that toward tires and track days and just focus on reps and getting better.

I'm done with mods I think, but will probably get the Brembo T-drive rotors when/if my OEMs get worn and I might also think about the EVO2 DTC/DQS software down the road. But for now, the bike feels very stable and fast and I'm just working on my technique with lots of reps, and having TONS of fun!

Also, for DucatiKev, I took a bunch of picture today but my camera's micro SD card decided to commit suicide on me, so they're lost. It's always something....
 
All good questions and ideas. I debated getting track fairings heavily and priced out a few options as well as each OEM body panel and concluded that I'll risk it. Since life is short, I'll "use the good china set" now. My plan is to live with ugly low-side scratched-up fairings, if that happens, and replace body panels as necessary, if they're outright broken. This is my strategy, versus a guaranteed ~$1,000 cost for a set of track fairings (plus I don't like storing any extra parts more than is absolutely necessary). I know I'm rolling the dice a bit, but ALL of this stuff is expensive, even on easy days, so I'm not too worried about replacing body work, give or take.

As for exhaust, well, yeah, I would like the full Ti Akro system, but the price with installation is pretty steep, and I'm, not crazy about the whole bike needing to be disassembled for the install. And honestly, I think the bike is fast enough already. In 15 track days on my old (crashed) 2018 S and now my 2019 base, I've not seen any faster bike on the straights (though I've not been side-to-side with an R yet ;) My strategy here is to save the $6,000 and put that toward tires and track days and just focus on reps and getting better.

I'm done with mods I think, but will probably get the Brembo T-drive rotors when/if my OEMs get worn and I might also think about the EVO2 DTC/DQS software down the road. But for now, the bike feels very stable and fast and I'm just working on my technique with lots of reps, and having TONS of fun!

Also, for DucatiKev, I took a bunch of picture today but my camera's micro SD card decided to commit suicide on me, so they're lost. It's always something....

that's a good point and I understand. Keeping extra stuff in vs buy it when you need it. I forget, did base come with same brakes and rotors as S/R?

I probably shouldn't bought extra stuff as spare for my R...
 
I was in the S vs R boat. I bought a 2020 R.

After spending a season on a bike with a FKR front end and a TTX GPv2 shock I don't really care for OE Ohlins of any sort anymore. I preferred manual suspension because I'm replacing it and the electronic stuff means you'll either have to find a block off setup or stare at a CEL. The R wins on that front. If you are frequenting tracks with straights long enough for the R to stretch its legs it's obviously the faster bike on the top end. I also suspect that the R's "lesser" bottom end/mid-range power is easier to get out of a corner faster than the S/base. I think the R delivers power the way journalists and racers describe factory race bikes. Really linear, really predictable, really manageable. That's how you make lap time IMO. Violent/menacing/relentless etc is exhilarating to ride and makes you feel like you're setting the lap record even when you're 10 seconds adrift but if you're wanting to chase that lap record that's not what you want out of the machine.
What bike were you riding wit he FKR carts and GPv2?
 
'14 1199S track bike

Chucked the stock NIX 30/TTX 36 Mk2 combo for the FKR108/TTX GPv2 setup and never looked back. The FKR front end is absurd on the brakes.
Yes I have heard, I was actually going to swap out for FKR this season and was dissuaded by Kyle Racing. I ma going to get thru first race season this summer then re evaluate. I know the FKR requires real quick pace to reap the benefit as well as a lot of fine tuning from what I was told.
 
Yes I have heard, I was actually going to swap out for FKR this season and was dissuaded by Kyle Racing. I ma going to get thru first race season this summer then re evaluate. I know the FKR requires real quick pace to reap the benefit as well as a lot of fine tuning from what I was told.

I don't know about really quick pace but it did take me a while to get mine to a good base setup and I'm still changing a click or two here and there and plus or minus a bit of preload depending on what the bike and track surface are doing. They're definitely more demanding from a setup standpoint than the OE stuff was. It's worth it though. Especially if you're gonna have the guys at Kyle Racing helping you get them dialed.
 

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