Addressing wrist pressure while riding

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+1 for the cramp buster. I my tuono I would frequently do 1000+ mile weekends including long stretches on the highway. The crampbuster works great for that, which was it's main intended use.


If I am just riding in town or out and about for shorter rides, I don't use anything but if I am doing long legs of riding between stops (110 to 125 miles) I swear by the crampbuster. I sometimes ride in groups of Harley bikes and we will do long stretches between stops. The crampbuster is the only thing I have found that allows me to be able to do it without too much discomfort.
 
I found this bike to be one of the more difficult I've owned to get the right seating position. With the standard seat I was sliding around and forward too much. I'm now ok with the comfort seat and my toes on the outer pegs. Just need to find the dollars for some rearsets and I think I'm there.

As everyone says here, finding the right position is key to reducing wrist pressure, which to be honest I only now feel when I'm lazy and riding on the road.
 
I found this bike to be one of the more difficult I've owned to get the right seating position. With the standard seat I was sliding around and forward too much. I'm now ok with the comfort seat and my toes on the outer pegs. Just need to find the dollars for some rearsets and I think I'm there.

As everyone says here, finding the right position is key to reducing wrist pressure, which to be honest I only now feel when I'm lazy and riding on the road.

New rear sets made a big difference. In fact, I think just changing out the stock pegs would improve things as the grip on the stockers was pretty bad. It really helped to adjust my position and allow me to use my core to balance better. The race seat helped too over the Teflon coated stock seat.

But, after I took the clip-ons off and put on ape hangers I have no wrist pressure at all now.
 
It all comes down to good riding position. This is why sport bikes are typically not ideal street/every day/commuting bikes, because they demand a lot from your core, it's almost a workout riding one.

Like others have said, if your wrists hurt it's more than likely because you're putting weight on them (of which there should be none normally). Good riding position means something like this: ball of your foot on the peg, knees locked into the side of the bike/tank, and your upper body supported by your core. You should be bent over to the point that your forearms are about parallel with the ground, putting no weight on the bars. This way you can maximize your input to the steering column as well as get back maximum feedback from what your front wheel is feeling/doing.

Obviously this is the ideal and intentional positioning for a sport bike, but is not always easy to maintain, especially on long boring rides. I've found it's on the more spirited, twisty rides that this is easier to maintain. It's kind of like the difference between playing basketball vs holding a core plank position. You get a workout either way but holding a position for a long time gets taxing much quicker. On longer/boring rides I'll even move as far up in my seat as possible to reduce my core angle and the amount of work it has to do, but I still do my best to not put any weight on my arms as that hinders the ability to maneuver the bike.


Bingo! It happens to me from time to time. Get the weight back on the pegs and off my wrists! All good...

Tom
 
Although this thread is ancient, now with our Forum Search 🔍 function fixed by @duc, I finally find what’s already been posted here before.👍

My 50 cents for newbies searching for solutions to this common issue, especially touring sport bikes:

‘I had the Crampbuster laying around unused for years. started to install it again on PV4 only for the boringly slow ‘highway’ days riding our Euro tours (link).
With these manual clamps you gotta be careful not to forget its there 🤪 and you must practice to perfection setting it to desired ‘fixed’ throttle position or in the downward ‘off’ position, especially in split second situations when -unprepared- the unpredicted happens. If not, brace yourselves for a bike buckaroo or worse.
I kinda understand that manual cruise control clamps (link) are very effective yet illegally dangerous.’
 
10 year old thread love it! ride a 848 or 1098 for a 100 miles and then hop on a panigale, and its awesome how much further you can go.

Wrist only get sore now on track from braking aggressively Towards the end of the day.
 
I use a Kaoka Throttle Stabilizer on my Panigale V2 to help with longer rides or when I need to adjust something with my right (or both) hand. Overall, I try to leave the Panigale in the garage except for track days. It is just not fun riding aggressive sportbikes on the street unless you are ripping it up, which is better served on the track. During track days, I take the Kaoka off the V2.
 

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