Addressing wrist pressure while riding

geeteethree said:

I found this bike to be one of the more difficult I've owned to get the right seating position. With the standard seat I was sliding around and forward too much. I'm now ok with the comfort seat and my toes on the outer pegs. Just need to find the dollars for some rearsets and I think I'm there.

As everyone says here, finding the right position is key to reducing wrist pressure, which to be honest I only now feel when I'm lazy and riding on the road.

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MacaveliMC said:

It all comes down to good riding position. This is why sport bikes are typically not ideal street/every day/commuting bikes, because they demand a lot from your core, it's almost a workout riding one.

Like others have said, if your wrists hurt it's more than likely because you're putting weight on them (of which there should be none normally). Good riding position means something like this: ball of your foot on the peg, knees locked into the side of the bike/tank, and your upper body supported by your core. You should be bent over to the point that your forearms are about parallel with the ground, putting no weight on the bars. This way you can maximize your input to the steering column as well as get back maximum feedback from what your front wheel is feeling/doing.

Obviously this is the ideal and intentional positioning for a sport bike, but is not always easy to maintain, especially on long boring rides. I've found it's on the more spirited, twisty rides that this is easier to maintain. It's kind of like the difference between playing basketball vs holding a core plank position. You get a workout either way but holding a position for a long time gets taxing much quicker. On longer/boring rides I'll even move as far up in my seat as possible to reduce my core angle and the amount of work it has to do, but I still do my best to not put any weight on my arms as that hinders the ability to maneuver the bike.

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