aftermarket strain gauge quickshifter on a 1299?
- Thread starter TurboLag
- Start date
Joined Jul 2012
3K Posts | 2K+
australia
Hi, I'm looking to buy myself an HM quickshifter for my 848 and was wondering whether investing now in a HM plus SS quickshifter would be of benefit later if/when I would move to a newer bike which would already have a standard quickshifter.
More specifically I was wondering if the up/down function of the 1299 would still work with the HM plus ss as it is supposed to be up _or_ down only (not both simultaneously).
Also what happens to the 1299 auto-blip function? Does the HM then still work in stand alone mode and use the seamless shift function or would the cut-off times be determined by the bikes ECU ? In the latter case I presume it would make a difference if I'ld buy the HM superlite or the plus ss?
More specifically I was wondering if the up/down function of the 1299 would still work with the HM plus ss as it is supposed to be up _or_ down only (not both simultaneously).
Also what happens to the 1299 auto-blip function? Does the HM then still work in stand alone mode and use the seamless shift function or would the cut-off times be determined by the bikes ECU ? In the latter case I presume it would make a difference if I'ld buy the HM superlite or the plus ss?
Joined Apr 2015
656 Posts | 286+
Norway
On the right side of the switch there is what looks like a locknut where the shift rod inserts. If you loosen the nut it backs out until it hits the shift rod. If you look at the shift rod when the you press on the pedal the shift rod moves quite a bit (~5-6mm). The only reason I can think that nut is there is to adjust out that free play. The free play allows a rider to rest his foot on the pedal without triggering the switch. On a load cell you'd set a force threshold. Give it a try and see before investing money in something different.
Joined Apr 2015
656 Posts | 286+
Norway
I've already got tuneboy, so if Wayne will just enable the load cell snippet he already has written for the 1199 I'm set 
But thanks, I'll look into it
But since the oem quickshifter is motion/switch based, won't it need free play in order to actually hit the switches? The only remedy I can think of for the OEM shifter is a stiffer spring inside the housing...
But thanks, I'll look into it But since the oem quickshifter is motion/switch based, won't it need free play in order to actually hit the switches? The only remedy I can think of for the OEM shifter is a stiffer spring inside the housing...
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A switch is just two contact points which close an otherwise open circuit. Think of it as decreasing the gap between the contact points.
I haven't messed with it, so it's just theory at this point but as soon as I'm done with break in I will try it.
I haven't messed with it, so it's just theory at this point but as soon as I'm done with break in I will try it.
Joined May 2014
504 Posts | 341+
London, UK
The adjuster nut behind the quickshift mechanism adjusts how close the pushrod is to the switch so yes as above it adjusts the sensitivity of the engine cut. I'm having some problems with my QS at the moment and had it apart the other day, still no idea why it's not working though. It's happened before and the dealer mentioned that the rose joint gets bunged up with crud and goes stiff, but I can't work out why this would stop it working?
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