So the box allows you to reflash the ECU. Providing you have the wide band O2 sensors installed it will store the AFR and the various fueling values for the IAP and TPS maps. The auto tune comes into play when to pull it up. It will adjust the map towards the desired AFR in the various cells that need to be adjusted. So you apply the suggested changes and re flash the ECU. It does the tuning work for you so you really don't have to analyze the map and go in and individually adjust the specific cells. The more you ride, the closer it gets to the desired AFR. The benefits of it is actual real world tuning with accurate pressurized air box given the actual speed you are riding vs a dyno and a fan. It does not adjust the fuel map as you ride. You can however go in a manually adjust it your self as well if you do have a dyno you can tune it in real time. It also adjusts each cylinder individually. Throw in the ETV adjustability (this is an area where tuners typically make big gains. It is interesting to see what the actual throttle application is, compared to how much you actually twist it. If you want to you can run a 1:1 throttle.), ignition timing adjustability and the ability to turn of the emissions crap, and flapper valve .... and its a pretty good set up. If I am able to get my hands on a super trick exhaust system then the set up will just start tuning that exhaust system and I wont have to buy anything else. (as long as it has the wide band O2 sensor bungs).
Now, the down side is in order to tune the higher RPM mapping you actually have to ride that fast which might be a challenge with out risking a pretty expensive ticket if you get stopped by the police.
Tune Boy looks like its also a good set up and has a cruse control option that might be handy for some. But to tune it you do have to have access to a dyno.
For me, the Woolich was the best option as it gives me the most versatile set up for future improvements and upgrades without having to buy more stuff.
Yeah I do think that Phil's ability to gut the OEM cans allowing it to breath quite a bit more is probably the best bang for the buck at almost 1/3 the cost of the Vandemon system. And I think the screens on the outlets looks super trick as well. The visible weld sort of gives it the "works" look and really is not that noticeable.
looking to get back in the game. I’m looking to get a 1299s or R but I see some have this weird stain on the exhaust. Is that normal wear for these new pipes? Or dealers just being lazy not cleaning it well?
