Are Sprockets interchangeably

Hi received my new 41t 525 sprocket today I ordered it for my 1199 but the packaging says panigale V2-V4 wondering will this fit my 1199 are the sprockets all the same dimensions??

Ducati has not changed the Rear sprocket mounting pattern in at least 10 years. If it's a 525, it'll work just fine. Lay the holes up against the hub to make sure. Remember you have to swap over the mounting pads/studs. I'd recommend new ones. The old ones are probably pretty deteriorated by now. Whenever I do mine I'm going with a quick-change hub. they are not that expensive and there are lots of gear options from several reputable manufacturers for new gears or sets. EDIT: FWIW, I just went to 3 websites double checking the interchangeability of the gears on the 1199/1299/v2/v4 and even 1200 used in the Diablo. Part numbers are interchangeable among all 5 bikes, both front and rear gears.

Yea it’s a 525 going to obviously change chain and front aswell That’s great advise much appreciated

Only 6000 miles on the bike would I need to change the pads/studs?

paulym81 said:

Only 6000 miles on the bike would I need to change the pads/studs?

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No, mine were all fine with those miles and 9 years old. Just did the quick change 520 conversion. Man the bike goes so much faster coasting down hills, you can tell there is less drag

For you guys mixing parts from different manufactures, including OEM to aftermarket, check your chain alignment. Correctly done, it’s not all plug and play. There are slight variations in different mfg parts. The fit between the flange, sprocket or sprocket carrier (QC) drive pins, drive cushions and the thrust washer all matter. Variations between these assembled parts can move the sprocket in or out and if it’s aluminum and alignment isn’t there, you will get side tooth wear much more rapidly.

Additionally, there should be slight movement in the final assembly (torqued) between the carrier and the Cush drive assembly, that’s why it’s called a Cush drive. If there isn’t and you have an aluminum carrier, the thrust washer will wear a groove in the back of the carrier. This happens often when using a flange from one mfg and a carrier from another.

The solution for fine tuning is facing the outer surface of the thrust washer. Additionally you can use a shim washer with the thrust washer to aligned the sprocket outboard or machine the thrust washer to a thinner profile to move the sprocket inboard. Now that’s if you want to set the drive up correctly, if ya don’t, .... it, bolt it up.

I can tell you from fixing a bunch of these scenarios over the years, “.... it” is the preferred method.

I changed out my front sprocket at 11K miles, the rear has 17.5K on it now and still looks very good, almost no saw-tooth or engagement wear patterns on the teeth, though the old front sprocket was pretty gnarly. Chain was changed with the front sprocket and the adjustment hasn't changed since I double checked it at 13K, so chain stretch is not a major worry for me.. I don't beat on the bike, but lots of highway time at speed in excess of 90-100 should show some sort of wear, but nothing notable. I plan on a quick-change hub installation over the Winter, and will probably redo the chain and front gear at that time. For lube I use a 50-50 mixture of 90W140 and Red synthetic grease. Wipe the chain down and brush it with Xylene to clean it then wipe it dry, rub a coat of the mixture all over the outside and then a thick bead on the gear side, run it a few miles, wipe it off and done. I saw a video on making your own Paraffin wax application, and tried it, and it worked pretty well, was a lot cheaper per application than any spray-on mixture, and kept the chain a nice coated whitish color (the links are red to accent the bike...) but went back to the other formula because of its ease of application.

paulym81 said:

Only 6000 miles on the bike would I need to change the pads/studs?

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At 6K they should be fine. i was under the impression that you had a lot more miles on it given it's year of manufacture. Be careful changing them over. if they look damaged at all replace them as a set.

outhouse said:

No, mine were all fine with those miles and 9 years old. Just did the quick change 520 conversion. Man the bike goes so much faster coasting down hills, you can tell there is less drag

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Which vendor for the gears and chain? Steel or Aluminum rear gear?

Sheikh said:

Which vendor for the gears and chain? Steel or Aluminum rear gear?

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sprocketcenter.com did the gold alloy carrier, metal sprocket and gold chain offered as a kit. They offer an alloy rear, at my skill level metal is fine.

I didnt buy their gold covers outer drive cover for 150. The cheap chiner one I bought from amazon for 45 bucks was actually very nice and just as sturdy as theirs. 2 week delievry time though.

outhouse said:

sprocketcenter.com did the gold alloy carrier, metal sprocket and gold chain offered as a kit. They offer an alloy rear, at my skill level metal is fine.

I didnt buy their gold covers outer drive cover for 150. The cheap chiner one I bought from amazon for 45 bucks was actually very nice and just as sturdy as theirs. 2 week delievry time though.

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Ummmm... the Stock cover is probably superior to the Chinese one. You can polish it and get it anodized if you like and it will work just fine. the Chinese stuff is. ..well. . Chinese stuff. Gotta wonder what alloy they are using as well if it is heat treated properly. If it's not certified 355 or 356 t-6, or a similarly high quality certified alloy and heat treat, I'd be wary of it. Unless you go with a 7075 or 6061 T6 Billet, it's hard to improve on the Stock item. In a pinch some high quality primer and paint over a polished unit will look very nice, and the anodizing won't ever fade. A lot of the anodized aluminum parts I have gotten from Chinese sources, like body panel screws (cause I just love those red torx head bolts) have faded very quickly to a reddish orange color, instead of the original red. Same will probably happen with the Gold. You might want to clear-coat the piece when you get it to preserve the anodizing.

Sheikh said:

the Stock cover is probably superior to the Chinese one.

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6061 T-6 Aluminum but ya you are right

Sheikh said:

You might want to clear-coat the piece when you get it to preserve the anodizing.

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Sage advise, Im not worried if it fades. My poor bike is 9 years old now. Hopefully I keep it upright is my biggest worry.

Sheikh said:

it's hard to improve on the Stock item

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The stock part isnt going anywhere lol I always save parts for when I wreck and rebuild.

Sheikh said:

You can polish it

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Great idea, and would look sharp. Thank you.

Very pretty. BTW, there are carriers for sale on Ebay made of 7075 and anodized, NOT from China, for aobut $45 USD.

Best of luck with that.

Sheikh said:

pretty.

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Fastest guys I see all have rattle can paint jobs at the tracks lol We do this for fun, and thought lower gearing was more important than looks.

They laugh at my bike at the track and want my number so they can buy it after it goes down.

Well, is it the Bike, or the Rider? had a very well ridden gsxr750 embarass my 1199 (and me of course) at VIR last year. Of course it was my first time, on street tires, but still...

I would not wash an o-ring chain with xylene or other strong solvent. Diesel is the recommended cleaning agent, but kerosine or mineral spirits are probably fine. Most street chains are o or x-ring but racing chains are not to reduce friction losses. If you do a 520 conversion, get the something like the ERV7, for the street youll need to clean and lube before each ride or get a scott oiler which seems to help keep the chain clean

If left on the o-rings for a period of time, Xylene might cause a bit of swelling, which would go away once the xylene evaporated, and it's only worrisome in the presence of raw rubber (which is uncured,. not catalyzed or stabilized), not the finished rubber used on chain seals.. Just a quick wipe of the outside of the chain to remove the oil lubricant and dirt has not caused a problem, in my experience. Kerosene is best of soaking a chain down, BTW, Xylene is part of Mineral Spirits, though the Toluene and Xylene are often refined out of the MIneral Spirits to give a final end product like Paint thinner, though Xylene and Toluene are both use as paint or epoxy thinners depending on the application.