Bleeding brakes with pneumatic vacuum bleeder?

I use a Mittyvac and works great.

Fastech said:

However does anybody have any experience using a pneumatic vacuum bleeder?

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You mean like this?
Mityvac Brake and Clutch Bleeding Equipment

I have their MV8020 Brake bleeder. One of the most useful tools in my tool box. Makes regular bi-monthly brake/clutch fluid replacement a 5 minute breeze. Also useful for emptying gas tank when you need/want to replace fuel filter.

If you have ABS then a vacuum bleeder is a better way to go anyway.

Seeing as you've already used the vacuum bleed method, I'm sure you already know not to let the reservoirs bleed dry
What will start out to be a quick and easy job can turn into a problem.
Especially on the rear.

IL MOSTRO said:

I use a Mittyvac and works great.

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Ditto!

I just did the rear brake this evening. Question:

How much rotor drag is acceptable? How many revolutions for the front and rear when in a stand would be about the norm?

I'm getting about 1 revolution on my rear and almost two on the front.

I'm not quite sure what you're talking about.

But I'm assuming your talking about how many revolutions it takes to push the pistons back into the calliper enough to stop them making a scuffing sound.

If so then in order of priority.
First.
Make sure you have a hard/solid lever feel. (not spongy at all)
That's the main thing to be concerned with.

Second.
If the pistons are being pushed back mechanically and not sticking on, then you are good to go. Don't over analyse it.
The fronts will take a bit more for them to retract because the rotors are mounted on buttons that allow some movement.

I personally haven't paid all that much attention to the matter, as all machines are a little different due to design differences and production tolerances.
But from what you describe, yours is a fairly typical example of normality "to varying degrees"

Do you have a reason to suspect there is a legitimate problem with your brakes which prompted you to bleed them in the first place?

Charliem90 said:

You mean like this?
Mityvac Brake and Clutch Bleeding Equipment

I have their MV8020 Brake bleeder. One of the most useful tools in my tool box. Makes regular bi-monthly brake/clutch fluid replacement a 5 minute breeze. Also useful for emptying gas tank when you need/want to replace fuel filter.

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I have the same model, and it would not work on bleeding the rear brake on my 1199. Worked perfectly on my CBR 600RR track bike, but on the 1199, no fluid was coming out.

Brad said:

I'm not quite sure what you're talking about.

But I'm assuming your talking about how many revolutions it takes to push the pistons back into the calliper enough to stop them making a scuffing sound.

Do you have a reason to suspect there is a legitimate problem with your brakes which prompted you to bleed them in the first place?

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Brad, thanks in advance for your time...

After installing rizoma rearsets, seeing my brake fluid in my rear reservoir turn to an almost black, and literally almost having no rear brake is what prompted me to bleed and flush per Anti-hero's "how-to". I hardly use the rear on the street, but I was planning a trackday on Monday and may need it if I have a grass excursion.

After doing the flush, I was trying to have a measurable baseline or reference on how much rotor drag is acceptable (sound of brake pads skimming the rotor). The easiest way I thought would be to ask how many times (revolutions) someone can spin their wheel and the "drag/friction" from the pads will bring them to a stop. I'm getting about one complete revolution on the rear.

Ducatiph1 said:

Brad, thanks in advance for your time...

After installing rizoma rearsets, seeing my brake fluid in my rear reservoir turn to an almost black, and literally almost having no rear brake is what prompted me to bleed and flush per Anti-hero's "how-to". I hardly use the rear on the street, but I was planning a trackday on Monday and may need it if I have a grass excursion.

After doing the flush, I was trying to have a measurable baseline or reference on how much rotor drag is acceptable (sound of brake pads skimming the rotor). The easiest way I thought would be to ask how many times (revolutions) someone can spin their wheel and the "drag/friction" from the pads will bring them to a stop. I'm getting about one complete revolution on the rear.

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I understand now.

As I said in the previous post, the most important requirement is to have a solid pedal. If you have that, then from what you've described you're all good to go

Also you don't need to remove the rear calliper to bleed the fluid if only doing a fluid change. It's overkill, and one absolutely wouldn't do it in the workshop for a straight forward brake fluid change.
Unless of course you feel that there's some sponginess in the feel of the pedal to start with, or you got careless and introduced air into the system while changing the fluid.

Enjoy

Fastech said:

Did you: 1) check to make sure you're bleeder was not clogged. And 2) did you remove the caliper so the bleeder is facing upward?

Also, did you ultimately bleed the brakes using another method?

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I ended up just pumping the brake pedal without flipping the caliper. I was able to get some fluid to come out with this method, but it has not 100% successful. I did not see the how to for brake bleeding until later on in the day, I plan on doing it again this weekend.

sbc580 said:

I ended up just pumping the brake pedal without flipping the caliper. I was able to get some fluid to come out with this method, but it has not 100% successful. I did not see the how to for brake bleeding until later on in the day, I plan on doing it again this weekend.

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Something doesn't sound right here
At all.

I don't mean to sound rude But.
Have you done this sort of thing before?