Changing the front springs
- Thread starter stevem
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Do one fork at a time, don't have the bike on a front stand (a headstock stand won't allow the bike to drop far enough).
After loosening the appropriate bolts, hold the bike handlebar, whilst undoing the fork top cap. When you finally undo it, the bike will drop lower, you're holding it to slow the drop, not stop it.
Reverse to tighten up. You can do it on your own, but another set of hands helps.
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How hard is it to lift the bike to screw the top cap back on?
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Maybe I'm having a brain fart, but Rick's post made zero sense to me. I used a headstock stand. I removed the front wheel then loosened the top clamp bolts. Next I loosened the top caps then removed the forks after loosening the lower clamp pinch bolts.
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Since the other side is still sprung it’ll support some weight and the bike shouldn’t come crashing down. My concern would be how much force is necessary to support the bike so once you’re right about to unscrew the cap completely that the weight doesn’t rip that last thread off or damage it
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Or just use a headstand (headstock stand) and avoid the drama.
If you are allergic to buying a head stand, you could support the front of the bike somehow with nylon straps. When I had my 1199, if I did any rear shock work, I'd support the rear of the bike by using nylon straps run from the ceiling joists in my garage to the rear subframe to keep it supported.
On this fork thing, I don't see why one wouldn't get a head stock/lift stand. There is no weight on the forks when its in use.
If you are allergic to buying a head stand, you could support the front of the bike somehow with nylon straps. When I had my 1199, if I did any rear shock work, I'd support the rear of the bike by using nylon straps run from the ceiling joists in my garage to the rear subframe to keep it supported.
On this fork thing, I don't see why one wouldn't get a head stock/lift stand. There is no weight on the forks when its in use.
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More than 1 way to skin a cat. Taking the wheel and fender off is a the slow way and a bit of a faff. Keeping everything together is the fast way and how they usually do it at the track
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You don't need to remove the forks to swap the springs.
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As you say, the other fork gives reasonable support, you're just helping it a bit more. I've never damaged a thread, even when taking both off at the same time (when the bike drops a lot harder).
But, have a friend help first time
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IDK. It seems like the faff is not sorting out the springs before getting to the track.
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