Any input on what aftermarket clutch slave would be a good replacement for the crappy oem clutch slave. Finding neutral is hard sometimes. Is the CNC racing 30mm clutch slave any good or are their others who can chime in and give feedback on better quality clutch slaves. https://www.cncracing.com/world/duc...linder--30-mm-ducati-sbk-panigale-series.html
Clutch slave question to improve finding neutral
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clutch slave
I have an oberon clutch slave 29mm and it works excellent, however after the clutch fluid gets burnt neutral is hard to find again. Not only finding neutral but I also have issues shifting gears once fluid gets dark. The fluid gets way to dark way too fast.
I have an oberon clutch slave 29mm and it works excellent, however after the clutch fluid gets burnt neutral is hard to find again. Not only finding neutral but I also have issues shifting gears once fluid gets dark. The fluid gets way to dark way too fast.
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You'll find that the OE master requires bleeding from time to time. Just bleed the air out at the master bleed screw. Super easy, night and day difference. You'll be able to shift again and find neutral.
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I am not sure if it really works and/or helps much and I must wait until season start to test it, but I saw somewhere specifically designed velcro strips that you can put on both steering ends to keep the levers fully pulled in overnight, and that should help potential bubbles find their way out. Does anybody have experience with this "trick"? Or complete BS?
jarelj
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It does work, for brake bleeding at least, particularly after bleeding a system from dry where there are a lot of little micro bubbles in the calipers and lines. It seems to help get all of the bubbles consolidated up to the top in the master where you can then bleed the air out. But that's the key, you have to actually bleed the bubble out at the top after leaving the pressure on the lever overnight. If all you do is wrap the lever, even if you get the bubbles to consolidate at the top, the system will still be spongy. I don't think you need to do it all the time, but it certainly does help after an initial bleeding. I just use a zip tie, no fancy velcro here.
I had the same issue. Not sure what the root problem is but a quick bleed at the master fixes it. Now that I know, I can feel the amount of dead lever travel. Once I get too much I bleed it an I can shift easy again. Bought a mitty vac, I pump it up to 20 pounds of pressure, open the valve and then close before pressure drops to zero. Done!
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