DQS - Quickshift issue 1299

Hi all,
I have a base 2016 1299. 7000kms on it. its been a while since i started having upshift issues with the DQS. Heres the thing.

1. It won't upshift in higher RPMS, above 5k. No matter how hard i try it is so stiff that my ankle started to hurt trying to upshift.

2. It would only upshift without clutch if i let go off the throttle for a bit just like putting in a clutch, which defeats the purpose of the quickshifter.

3. Already went in to the dealer with the issue, and they say nothing wrong with it. They tried it on higher rpms and works flawless.

4. I rode my friends 1199s, and i could feel a lot different than mine in terms of smoothness and how comfortable it was.

I have looked around in the forums but couldn't find a specific and proper solution.

Could you guys recommend something, i shall be taking it in to the dealer again. But im sure they will come back and say theres nothing wrong with it. Should i have it replaced with a new one?

Quicknote: until the first service i used to use the dqs for all types of riding and never used clutch. After i read it must be used for hard acceleration and higher rpms i started using the clutch for city ride and dqs while on track. Since then the issue started.

I don't seem to understand why there is an option of switching the DQS on or off. So does that mean if its on, never to use the clutch? If i could put the DQS on and use the clutch as well, then why do they have an option to turn it off?


Thanks,

Mine works very well gong up, down its erratic sometimes doesn't work at all and winds up shifting as engine load comes off without auto blipping.

I love mine. Makes the bike ride like a bullet.

Might be a good idea to go over/ rebuild the left side rearset and shift linkage. Maybe something has loosened up over time which is now interfering with the mechanism. I think it would be a good place to start.

well, i don't see many active users having same trouble as me. I would have to ask the dealer to have a look at it again. It is frustrating to know this is happening to a brand new bike. And one of the features that i loved about it.

Strange thing is dealer cant find a problem says it is all good. but when i ride it would never ever work instead make it difficult.

superbiker said:

well, i don't see many active users having same trouble as me. I would have to ask the dealer to have a look at it again. It is frustrating to know this is happening to a brand new bike. And one of the features that i loved about it.

Strange thing is dealer cant find a problem says it is all good. but when i ride it would never ever work instead make it difficult.

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hey i know this may sound silly but when you up shift make sure you are ON the throttle and off the throttle when down shifting.

Wash? You wash it like with a hose and water?Hmmm anyhow here it is broken down.
You have mechanical, electrical and physiological components that are required to change gears on this bike. Mechanically you obviously have the shift lever assembly,Shift rod linkage, micro-switch assembly in the QS, gear control lever,gearbox drum assembly, gear change assembly. Electronically you have the QS micro-switch assembly, QS wiring assembly,ECU(multiple control points here) Main wiring harness/connectors, Clutch switch, gear box position sensor and harness. Last we have you and only you can assess that component. Now armed with this list, go nuts man. Seriously, it could be any or multiples of the components listed. Worse case scenario is an intermittent issue in the ECU or related electrical connections that never shows when anyone is doing diag on it. All the mechanical components can easily be assessed for functionality. Electromechanical is a bit more tedious. Electronics are most troublesome. Compounding factors and by all means let the bashing begin but the odds of a Ducati dealership being able to understand anything I just wrote are slim. Very few are skilled at anything more that routine mechanics. There are probably more guys on this board that have seen the inside of a Ducati QS or have a good understanding of the 1199/1299 systems that are employed by Ducati shops. Don't get me wrong. There are some good ones but they are hidden treasures.They know the basics and they know how to access the diag port and run the software. Troubleshooting the nuances is not their specialty I can assure you. Some of these bike are finicky no question. There are resident gremlins that seem to relentlessly plague some of these bikes.

Ductape said:

hey i know this may sound silly but when you up shift make sure you are ON the throttle and off the throttle when down shifting.

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This ^^. A QS system is not intended to be used for idle or cruising gear changes. They don't work worth a crap if you are cruising at an invariable speed.

It doesn't really have a ton to do with the actual throttle (well sort of), but it's more specifically related to acceleration and deceleration. If you are under power and the bike is aggressively accelerating, it should shift pretty clean. If you are doing the above and it's still not shifting correctly, I'd take a look at the rearsets and linkage. IMO the stock set is kinda garbage and sloppy. It's not very precise at all and leaves a lot to be desired, honestly.

My 2016 1299s shifts like a kicking mule (or not all), IF I'm being lazy and just cruising (steady pace) and decide I want use the DQS.

Interesting those commenting about harsh shifting while cruising I do not have that issue at all. The 1299 shifts like butter at all RPM ranges with the exception of 1st to 2nd approaching WOT which is to be expected. Cruising at low RPM's its like a Rolex. zero neutral issues and zero missed shifts. Of course there are modifications but I do not recall it being an issue in stock trim. I hate to say it but the FP Shift Kit made a difference. I thought it was hokey.
Mods:
Translogic QS
Lightech Rears (GP)
Corse gear shaft cover
Corse gear lever
Factory Pro Shift Kit Factory Pro: Producers of the EC997 Low Inertia Eddy Current Dynamometer Series and Quality MC performance products

I already once replied to this thread, but took it away since it was misunderstood. All mechanical parts benefit from sufficient lubrication. To my mind shifter rod makes no exception. I lubricate with WD40 the inner/outer rod gap. I am pretty convinced this helps or it is a good placebo effect.

I try to do this every time I lubricate chains or if I have driven in rain.

MotoX183 said:

This ^^. A QS system is not intended to be used for idle or cruising gear changes. They don't work worth a crap if you are cruising at an invariable speed.

It doesn't really have a ton to do with the actual throttle (well sort of), but it's more specifically related to acceleration and deceleration. If you are under power and the bike is aggressively accelerating, it should shift pretty clean. If you are doing the above and it's still not shifting correctly, I'd take a look at the rearsets and linkage. IMO the stock set is kinda garbage and sloppy. It's not very precise at all and leaves a lot to be desired, honestly.

My 2016 1299s shifts like a kicking mule (or not all), IF I'm being lazy and just cruising (steady pace) and decide I want use the DQS.

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The Dragon Lady shifts fast and clean even when below 3000 rpm. She is a 2012 Tricolore with race mapped ecu and PCV and autotune.

endodoc said:

Interesting those commenting about harsh shifting while cruising I do not have that issue at all. The 1299 shifts like butter at all RPM ranges with the exception of 1st to 2nd approaching WOT which is to be expected. Cruising at low RPM's its like a Rolex. zero neutral issues and zero missed shifts. Of course there are modifications but I do not recall it being an issue in stock trim. I hate to say it but the FP Shift Kit made a difference. I thought it was hokey.
Mods:
Translogic QS
Lightech Rears (GP)
Corse gear shaft cover
Corse gear lever
Factory Pro Shift Kit Factory Pro: Producers of the EC997 Low Inertia Eddy Current Dynamometer Series and Quality MC performance products

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Yeah, it normally works fairly well. I typically get this when I'm just shifting to drop some Rs and I'm borderline decelerating. Under accel, it's usually pretty good. Like I said, it's just me being lazy.

Make sure the shift rod hasn't partially backed out. When I had issues with mine, that is what happened.