Engine Ice

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Location
Florida
Hello,
Called my dealer and they told me that Engine Ice will in fact lower the engine temps but the performance will decrease due to the engine not been able to reach optimal heat temps.
I mainly use on the road with a couple of track days a year. Live in Miami and summer temps makes the engine run extremely hot. I'm looking to lower the temps a bit to preserve the engine a bit better.

Thoughts?
 
It won't change the operating temps to the point it'll be in a different fueling map. Also, you will experience heat as a passenger all the same.

The bigger reason to use other types of coolant has to do with race track safety restrictions.
 
I haven’t experienced a significant difference in heat after using Engine Ice. I didn’t want to create problems if I crashed at the track. I think that’s pretty speculative on the part of your dealer to give that advice. I’d also give the caveat that is that dealer’s opinion and not Ducati’s.
 
Wouldn’t a cooler operating motor produce more power while higher heat reduces power? Thats nonsense that the engine wouldn’t get to operating temp with engine ice , it in fact would keep it closer to operating temp rather than closer to overheating with a glycol mix. The dealer just wants you to stick with OEM probably.
 
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You want heat in the chamber to make good power. So everything modern runs over 200 F. Helps with the smog stuff. So cooling the motor down would make it make slightly less power unless the effect on the intake air was greater (cooler) then the loss due to cooler operating temp. I used to drag race cars years ago. When you needed a fast pass you could drain the water out, it always good for a few mph and several tenths. Really hard on the valve train and a real guide killer.
 
Engine Ice needs to be refreshed “seasonally” (whatever that means) or more in high-performance applications (they recommend every oil change) whereas OEM is every 4 yrs. I’ll stick with OEM
 
Can't race with glycol SD. The oem mix is 55 glycol/45 water if I remember well.

No one said anything about racing. OP mentioned road and some track.

For how delicate these bikes are with heat, I wouldn’t play with coolants especially if you want to keep your warranty. Would only switch to water/additive on a race bike and then go w an upgraded rad
 
I run about 30% glycol with distilled water and water wetter. The increase in the water percentage alone increases heat transferability. Me no gots warranty. So they're letting youse guys run track days with coolant? My 13 psi and 16 psi radiator caps are showing up tomorrow. So if they fit I'll post it.
 
Depends on the track and the group hosting. Some limit coolant types but not typically in novice or intermediate group.
 
I run about 30% glycol with distilled water and water wetter. The increase in the water percentage alone increases heat transferability. Me no gots warranty. So they're letting youse guys run track days with coolant? My 13 psi and 16 psi radiator caps are showing up tomorrow. So if they fit I'll post it.

Chances of crashing should be low in Novice and Intermediate. If you’re pushing the pace beyond your skills in those classes, you’re doing it wrong.
 
Chances of crashing should be low in Novice and Intermediate. If you’re pushing the pace beyond your skills in those classes, you’re doing it wrong.
Have you ever been to a track day? Intermediate is the worst for crashes, then novice, and then advanced. Engine ice works fine for those going to the track. Protects from freezing for those in the colder climates too. I’ve been using it for years.
 
Have you ever been to a track day? Intermediate is the worst for crashes, then novice, and then advanced. Engine ice works fine for those going to the track. Protects from freezing for those in the colder climates too. I’ve been using it for years.
There was a group near me which split intermediate into an A and B group which seemed to help. Intermediate group definitely seems to have the largest skill gap. I agree that intermediate group has more crashes than the others.

I like that Engine Ice is track friendly and has a bit of freeze (to -7F) protection. It was about 20F here today and I checked the head temp on my bike it was 41F. I don't ride in the cold at all but if its parked in the garage I'd worry about a non-freeze protection product should it get super cold.
 
YMMV I’ve been to some trackdays where Advanced has had all the crashes. But I know from experience that Advanced is way more aggressive in passing and tight riding. Been there, didn’t enjoy it. Didn’t have the drive to ride at that more competitive level. I was also on the slow end of the group and was constantly riding over my head just to maintain a decent (aka slow) pace. As I’ve gotten older, I just want to enjoy riding. I hate riding in groups. Im there to improve my riding and bike skills not compete.

I’m a fan of the inter/inter+ set up especially since a lot of the tracks out here are new to me. It’s also good to be at the sharp end of Inter group because you typically dictate the pass.
 
Chances of crashing should be low in Novice and Intermediate. If you’re pushing the pace beyond your skills in those classes, you’re doing it wrong.

Those guys would hate me passing on the inside/outside with all the bags on. I still have my AFM license but I bet they wouldn't let me do a track day due to age.
 
Hey man I live in Miami and I’m changing from OEM to Supercool with WW. Gunna test running temps with these high ambient temperatures and see how it runs. If it doesn’t keep it below 210 I’m going to try 25/75. Idc about peak power, I care about not roasting my nuts in the south Florida heat. Gotta work this out before summer
 
No one said anything about racing. OP mentioned road and some track.

For how delicate these bikes are with heat, I wouldn’t play with coolants especially if you want to keep your warranty. Would only switch to water/additive on a race bike and then go w an upgraded rad

Bingo, the only thing that made a significant difference in heat on my bike is the H2O radiator. I do run Engine Ice in it though, and change that every 3 or 4 track days.

The radiator makes enough difference that in cooler temps, below say 65 degrees Farenheight, i have to tape part of the radiator off so it heats up more quickly, otherwise its up to 3 laps wasted to get above one bar and out of limp mode when its cooler out.

Even on the hottest track days pushing the bike very hard with 100+ dregree ambient temps the bike doesn't get too hot.

I like to think that putting that radiator on before the bike ever saw its first track day will extend the life if the engine.
 
Hey man I live in Miami and I’m changing from OEM to Supercool with WW. Gunna test running temps with these high ambient temperatures and see how it runs. If it doesn’t keep it below 210 I’m going to try 25/75. Idc about peak power, I care about not roasting my nuts in the south Florida heat. Gotta work this out before summer
Changing coolant isn’t going to make the bike noticeably cooler. All the heat you feel comes from the exhaust
 
I've ridden a few bikes in Miami. The heat comes from the exhaust system while at low speeds. The scrambler had the pipe on the side right under your inner thigh. I would basically have my left leg on the ground while hovering my right leg way from the bike at lights. The panigale also horrible and no escape from heat of pipes. Mv agusta brutale 800 RR was the only one that was ok. Guess why? Exhaust is traditional routing at the bottom of bike.

No coolant or radiator will help with comfort at low speeds in Miami if your pipes are near any part of your body.

If you want to protect the engine go ahead but it'll be barely noticeable.

If you are actually on track or constantly moving then radiator has biggest impact on overheating. And in those conditions you aren't feeling exhaust heat anyway if you are wearing the right gear.
 
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