FacotryPro ceramic shiftkit

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ceramic bearing, lightweight spring... smoother shifting? Don't know but looks interesting
 
This really help the beltdrives. When ducati changed the primary drive ratio the gearbox shifted worse particularly between 1st and 2nd. The lower friction bearing and more importantly the heavier spring rotates the shift drum faster. Worth the effort.
 
Got one on the way, will put up some pics of the install. Hoping to fix downshifting from 2nd to 1st at lower speed
 
I do have a V4R. The part numbers for the detent spring on the x99 and V4x are the same. The factory pro has the same profile but a lighter spring rate. The dimensions of the shift lever are also the same, just ceramic bearings. There's a lot of the same hardware carried forward, I say it lightly but its really just the addition of 2 cylinders and the associated hardware.

The "sticking" of the lever I find in 1st and 2nd gear during downshifts is what I'm hoping to allieve, also to help set it in neutral easier, with a the lighter spring rate and the lower friction bearings
 
@Astral11 I believe it. Ducati has reused many common parts across the platforms so there are many parts that are interchangeable. The challenge is you always have to measure and validate yourself in most situations as they often roll part numbers for 😁
 
Yea there's a few OEM parts that I've bought just for measurements. Hoping to get a small shop going soon for the Ducati specifics
 
Shift linkage as installed. The ceramic arm/bearing has the blue race, and there is a lighter spring rate installed on the detent arm. The other silver spring to the right, matches the lighter spring rate on the bearing tensioner. So when you shift up or down, the mechanism on the lower right moves the star shaped item which is the other end of the gear drum roller. Where you see the ceramic bearing sitting, is neutral. The cutout above the neutral position is 1st gear, the one below neutral is 2nd gear. To remove the main spring on the shaft, the plastic bushing cannot clear the gear to get the spring out, it needs to be slightly modified on assembly or you'd need to remove the entire gear. I highly recommend having the OBDstar scanner to complete the gear re-learn procedure after installing this kit. The spring tension is tight against the selector, and I had the star move forward 1 position once the springs were off, that moved the gearbox forward and that slight misalignment gave a false signal to the gear position sensor. The gearbox has to remain aligned with the sensor
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Previous
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New water pump with titanium fasteners - M6L20OTB02 - I'm surprised Ducati doesn't specify the forged aluminum fasteners as one time use for the water pump. The aluminum fasteners are the exact same ones that need to be replaced on the generator/clutch cover as part of the scheduled maintenance.
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Old water pump and corse gears at 10k miles
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The replacement red STM clutch housing has showed up in a different post and had damage, I was surprised to see my clutch housing had the similar problem. I think it has to be a machining difference between the OEM clutch housing the aftermarket one, it seems like the outer radius needed to be machined down further. It was more surface markings than deep gougings but still, may be worth looking into the smaller diameter 23' clutch or buying the OEM clutch basket and not the red STM one.
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I have this on my 959, I'm local to Factory Pro and drive by it everyday. I thought the lightened return spring was too light and wouldn't return the shifter properly. How's it working out for you?
 
The gears cycle through fine and the shifting is smooth overall, the biggest hurdle was doing the gear learning procedure.

There's a small clip in the engine housing(red) that retains the return spring, I had it pop out a few times during install and had to find a sweet spot while doing the final torque. I think if that moves out of place, the return spring pressure wouldn't be there

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Not the spring on the arm, the #308 spring under the arm.

That one is also directional..not to lore but it had to be compressed into position to get it to sit correctly, it doesn't go in as you would remove it from the package. If the bottom arm of the spring doesn't wrap around the pin, and press against the pin to hold it, then the tension won't be there. That arm of the spring is on the right side in photo, you can see where the 2 arms cross each other. I didn't have to change that really spring below the arm, it was just the ceramic bearing/lighter spring and the gear arm spring that was replaced

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