Funny little "Classic Fuel Tank Valve"

Gecko · Jun 4, 2016

I started this mini-project back in January, lowest priority. I can imagine some of you guys might not like it, sorry. But I really kinda like the old fashioned way of the fuel tank venting.

After some research I found the perfect company for the required valve: TRV45 from Newton Equipment in the UK. I just had to design and machine an aluminium stub and weld it into a drilled hole of an old Panigale fuel tank. I attached the drawing of this piece (got one spare for one of you).

After welding, I filed, grinded and polished around the stub until everything looked like OEM. Thanks to the clever design of the valve it's both closed when tank is overfilled or bike leans over

The Avidmoto · Jun 4, 2016

Very cool!

Getting at it from my iPhone using Tapatalk

endodoc · Jun 4, 2016

Looks fantastic as usual. I tried the same thing with disastrous results. Must have has the settings on the TIG box wrong because it burned a hole right through the carbon fiber tank.

Gecko · Jun 4, 2016

endodoc said:
Looks fantastic as usual. I tried the same thing with disastrous results. Must have has the settings on the TIG box wrong because it burned a hole right through the carbon fiber tank.

CF tends to react strangely on heat!

tslsx74 · Jun 4, 2016

Urs, that is beautiful. Did you block off the factory vent holes and lines? What was total cost for valve and machined stub?

Gecko · Jun 4, 2016

tslsx74 said:
Urs, that is beautiful. Did you block off the factory vent holes and lines? What was total cost for valve and machined stub?

The valve itself costs around USD 30.-, I machined the stub myself, it's pretty easy to do on a small lathe (if you don't have one, give me a shout). Just had to buy the UNF 7/16 screw tap.

The tricky part is the welding.

I didn't block-off the factory overflow and venting line yet, I want to do some tests before doing this. If the new venting valve works I will cut the lines below the tank. It would make life much easier when removing/installing the fuel tank.

AntiHero · Jun 4, 2016

Gorgeous. I've always wanted a front-mount vent. Partially because of nostalgia and partly because I hate trying to get the vent hoses attached after removal.

If you still have the spare, PM me with how much you want for it.

Stupid questions:
Why would you want the valve to be closed when the tank is overfilled? That's the one time I think you'd want it open.

And when welding a gas tank that has once been used to store petrol, do you fill it with water or just let it breath for a very, very, very long time?

Domino · Jun 4, 2016

AntiHero said:
Gorgeous. I've always wanted a front-mount vent. Partially because of nostalgia and partly because I hate trying to get the vent hoses attached after removal.

If you still have the spare, PM me with how much you want for it.

Stupid questions:
Why would you want the valve to be closed when the tank is overfilled? That's the one time I think you'd want it open.

And when welding a gas tank that has once been used to store petrol, do you fill it with water or just let it breath for a very, very, very long time?

Back purge with argon.

Gecko · Jun 4, 2016

AntiHero said:
Gorgeous. I've always wanted a front-mount vent. Partially because of nostalgia and partly because I hate trying to get the vent hoses attached after removal.

If you still have the spare, PM me with how much you want for it.

Stupid questions:
Why would you want the valve to be closed when the tank is overfilled? That's the one time I think you'd want it open.

And when welding a gas tank that has once been used to store petrol, do you fill it with water or just let it breath for a very, very, very long time?

You just brought it to the spot. That's how I feel, thanks!

Nope, just store the tank for a week with the cap hole open, no problem at all when welding.

Imagine hard braking: If the valve wouldn't close, fuel would be pressed out of the vent line!

Stub is yours, first come first serves

, for free of course. I would be happy if you'd pay the shipment costs. Do you want a valve as well (got one spare. USD 30.-)?

Please note that I just did the mod. I did not test it yet!

bradp51 · Jun 4, 2016

Gecko said:
I started this mini-project back in January, lowest priority. I can imagine some of you guys might not like it, sorry. But I really kinda like the old fashioned way of the fuel tank venting.

After some research I found the perfect company for the required valve: TRV45 from Newton Equipment in the UK. I just had to design and machine an aluminium stub and weld it into a drilled hole of an old Panigale fuel tank. I attached the drawing of this piece (got one spare for one of you).

After welding, I filed, grinded and polished around the stub until everything looked like OEM. Thanks to the clever design of the valve it's both closed when tank is overfilled or bike leans over

Very cool Urs. I think I may need to do this. Wow I will have to get a second hand tank just so I can add a $30 cool looking part. I always like the look of a clear tube coming out of the top of an old 1976-77 900 SS with a big Imola tank and the flat aircraft style fuel filler.

SAB · Jun 5, 2016

Cool project Urs! I run these valves on the endurance tanks on the R1 and the 1199. The only word of caution I have for you is that the float balls on the inside like to gum up from the fuel vapor.

The guys at Phase One Endurance (where I got the R1 tank) actually cut the bottom off and ditch the balls in favor of an in line check valve. I did this on the endurance pani tank as well. I don't know if you are running an internal breather pipe to the highest point of the tank, but if you aren't then you have to retain the float balls so that fuel doesn't slosh out Just unscrew it and spray it out with good degreaser every once in awhile. Looks mint on that tank!

Gecko · Jun 5, 2016

SAB said:
Cool project Urs! I run these valves on the endurance tanks on the R1 and the 1199. The only word of caution I have for you is that the float balls on the inside like to gum up from the fuel vapor.

The guys at Phase One Endurance (where I got the R1 tank) actually cut the bottom off and ditch the balls in favor of an in line check valve. I did this on the endurance pani tank as well. I don't know if you are running an internal breather pipe to the highest point of the tank, but if you aren't then you have to retain the float balls so that fuel doesn't slosh out Just unscrew it and spray it out with good degreaser every once in awhile. Looks mint on that tank!

Thank you very much for this info!!
I acutally bought some in line valves available on the market. But all of them were either way to big or the vacuum required for opening was too high in my impression. Where would I get that valve? Any input highly appreciated!

bradp51 · Jun 5, 2016

Gecko said:
Thank you very much for this info!!
I acutally bought some in line valves available on the market. But all of them were either way to big or the vacuum required for opening was too high in my impression. Where would I get that valve? Any input highly appreciated!

You need a Titanium one. LOL

VAST · Jun 6, 2016

Gecko: lets see this mounted up on the bike already!

Gecko · Jun 6, 2016

VAST said:
Gecko: lets see this mounted up on the bike already!

I'm a bit scared about your opinion

Tank is at the painter's workshop now. He's going to put the terribly stupid SL colours on it. I tried to make a bit of a different design with parts in polished aluminium, white and the fluorescent orange on it, but in a more classic look than found on the 2014 and 2015 Rs.

Sidenote: It was a real adventure to get the orange color here in Switzerland, because Police is using the same color on their vehicles. The local vendor does not deliver until you provide a gov approval. We had to order the stuff from somewhere else. Felt like a drug dealer

VAST · Jun 6, 2016

Gecko said:
I'm a bit scared about your opinion
Tank is at the painter's workshop now. He's going to put the terribly stupid SL colours on it. I tried to make a bit of a different design with parts in polished aluminium, white and the fluorescent orange on it, but in a more classic look than found on the 2014 and 2015 Rs.

Sidenote: It was a real adventure to get the orange color here in Switzerland, because Police is using the same color on their vehicles. The local vendor does not deliver until you provide a gov approval. We had to order the stuff from somewhere else. Felt like a drug dealer

well, for what it's worth, i love classic and if there's any polished aluminum poking out from the paint then i love it even more... but i am a minimalist, within certain design, let's call them, necessities.... (not huge fan of anodized colors as you know, unless it is black anodized or simply honest raw alum...)

and i actually thought maybe you were going to just do classic Cagiva era Ducati logos in paint onto the polished tank and leave it at that

edit: to wit:

Gecko · Jun 6, 2016

Funny idea with the "old" letters, would look great on the fully stripped tank. But it would not fit to the SL, too much other writing on it with the "new" font. Actually there will be no big logo at all. Just a little "Ducati" with a tricolore at the botom of the tank, hidden by the rider's knee.
I should get back the tank before WDW and post a picture of it for you.

Painting is difficult, color matching to the rest of the bike has to be done with multiple layers of colors. First primer, then the white, then a couple of orange layers, followed by a special clear coat that also sticks on the polished aluminium.

bradp51 · Jun 6, 2016

Gecko said:
Funny idea with the "old" letters, would look great on the fully stripped tank. But it would not fit to the SL, too much other writing on it with the "new" font. Actually there will be no big logo at all. Just a little "Ducati" with a tricolore at the botom of the tank, hidden by the rider's knee.
I should get back the tank before WDW and post a picture of it for you.

Painting is difficult, color matching to the rest of the bike has to be done with multiple layers of colors. First primer, then the white, then a couple of orange layers, followed by a special clear coat that also sticks on the polished aluminium.

I am sure with your attention to detail it is going to look awesome.

thewoot · Jun 6, 2016

I like it! That's pretty sweet lookin' man!

Gecko · Jun 29, 2016

Finally. It was a real PITA for the painter. Tonight (10hrs before my trip to WDW in Italy) he finished his work on my fuel tank. The metallic parts are the bare aluminium of the tank, hand polished and laquered. Needs some polishing, but it's too soft yet. SL Ducati red with white stripes

I also gave him zohsix's carbon protectors to paint and asked him to place a ducati logo onto the tail of the Tricolore. Looks nice.

Funny little "Classic Fuel Tank Valve"

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