Guys need some advice in rear hub and gear

Somefun said:

I have the 1299SA so it came with the battery and I have the full AKR system in her now with the Upmap and she runs great. I'm thinking the rear titanium rear hub, both the wheel nut and hub bolt and then a light weight rear 40 gear it someone makes that and then the light weight Cush drives and titanium rear sprocket bolts..... I think that would be a large weight savings and with the one tooth would be a nice change....

Click to expand...

I have done all that on my 1199S about 2 years ago. Lots of detail and pics are review on rides about the gearing change in a couple of posts I did back then.

There is hardly any weight difference in the Ti to the Alloy hubs from CNC etc. But the Ti one is 4 times the price. To really reduce the weight you need to go to 520.

I would leave the gearing stock. Just change for lighter bits.

The only fitment issues I had were the very pretty CNC brand Ti nuts I purchased were different pitch to the urethane cush drives I bought. Re threaded and all good. So OP did you stay with stock pitch ?

You save a lot of chain weight and overall by going 520.

Somefun said:

Ok I said screw it and ordered from Design Coarse the titanium rear hub, titanium rear wheel and hub nuts, the aluminum quick change flange in titanium and the light weight race 40 rear gear along with black nuts.... this girl is all done at this point. Modded her very subtle but if you look and know what your looking at you will see and she will make you smile.....

Click to expand...

Did you stick with stock pitch ?

bradp51 said:

Did you stick with stock pitch ?

Click to expand...

Yeah kept the 525. There are some many diff combo's I hope this all fits without issues. I would think it would but who knows.

Here is a cut and paste of a post I did a while back.
Originally Posted by Styler View Post
7 lbs! I don't think I could walk never mind sit on a bike after a dump like that!

If you read Brad's posted items carefully, you will note that there is some double-counting if you simply add all of them up, which is not what I think he intended. I see that he has weighed various combinations.
Of his items, those relevant to my job are:
1) OEM Chain 2099 g vs. 520 chain 865 g = 234 g reduction;
2) OEM Front Sprocket 251 g vs. AFAM drilled Front sprocket 178 g = 73 g reduction;
3) OEM Rear Steel 530 39 T 1201 g vs. AFAM 520 41 T Alloy Superlite 197 = 1,004 g reduction
4) OEM Rubber cush drive ??g vs. Poly cush drive ??g = TBD

Thus, assuming Brad's measures are correct, total reduction from these components is 1.311 kg or 2.89 lbs. (1kg = 2.20462262 lbs.)
And, as noted before, the weight reduction is a nice by-product of regearing and not the reason to take on the work; and, unsprung, rotating mass is far more noticeable than simply reducing the same weight elsewhere.





Styler,
You are right, thanks for pointing it out. I just copied straight off a Macbook laptop I have been keeping a spreadsheet on as I weigh things in the garage.

The reason I could not weigh the new hyper flex cush drives against the OEM ones is because when sprocket centre sent them to me they were already pressed into the sprocket carrier. So what I did was weigh the OEM cush drives with the original sprocket and hub cover and nuts. That weighs 2060.9 grams. The Alloy sprocket and new cush drives with Ti nuts (cush drive only) and CNC hub cover weigh 1251.2 grams. So a saving of 809.7grams.

I ended up with two lightweight sprocket carriers so I weighed both with cush drives (remember one was pressed in, so could not separate.) By subtracting the weight of the carrier from both I ended up with a difference of 120.3 grams saved on the Hyperflex cush drives.

The scale I am using is a electronic one which measures up to 5 kilograms in 0.1 gram increments. I have a set of calibration weights from 1 gram to 20 grams and its accurate to plus or minus 0.1 gram. Its very consistent so I believe the weights to be accurate to within a tenth of a gram.

As Styler mentioned my object was to change to a 41 tooth sprocket on rear and I went the 520 route to save some weight.

I will go through my spreadsheet and come up with an exact weight savings figure. The reason I have not done that yet is because I got caught out with the pitch on the Hyperflex cush drives is 1.25mm and not 1.0mm as on the OEM. So at the moment I cannot use the nice CNC Ti nuts which cost an arm and a leg. I can either buy cheaper Ti ones from someone like Pro Bolt or buy CNC Ti 848 ones which I believe are 1.25mm. (Can anyone confirm ?) or try to re thread my CNC ones.

I have also replaced the rear swing arm pinch bolts with Ti and also the pinch bolts and mount bolts in the rear calliper with Ti as well.

One of the things I like about playing around with all this stuff is it helps teach me a little more about my motorcycle. I think sometimes the money I save on dealer labour, I spend on new tools like the chain breaker I purchased. Its all fun though.

Somefun said:

Yeah kept the 525. There are some many diff combo's I hope this all fits without issues. I would think it would but who knows.

Click to expand...

Its a pity as going 520 is where the real weight saving is.

bradp51 said:

Its a pity as going 520 is where the real weight saving is.

Click to expand...

Yeah for sure. I have the 520 conversation on my ZX10R track bikes. Man that's a thin rear gear for a 1299. Lol it's fine on my 10 and sure it would be fine on my 1299SA but rather stay with the 525.

Raced all year with the 520 aluminum sprockets on my 1299S with no issues or accelerated wear.

Hey Endo definitely would like to see that carbon hangar once your done. I have been thinking of making a carbon molded version.

I couldn't find a TI sprocket carrier hub either so ended up with a AEM sprocket, carrier and hub from Bellissi Moto, Pro Bolt TI sprocket nuts and light cush drives.



QUOTE=endodoc;271072]You could do a machined carbon fiber hub very easily. Probably print one as well. That does not seem to strange at all. There are no friction points except the swing arm interface which is lubricated so that would not be an issue. It would be stronger and a lot lighter that even the MAG hub. I am just getting finished with a CF rear caliper hangar. If I can get the material, i could give the hub a shot. I really like the way CF machines. Super easy to work with.[/QUOTE]

Frost said:

Pro-bolt makes everything your looking for in titanium, just make sure your on probolt usa. You may have to call them for the 1299, I'm not sure if the 1199 bolts and axle nut fits the 1299 but if they do they have everything you need.

Click to expand...

Having used both Proti is the better product.

I use the DID ERV3 520 on a modded motor with the Sitta 41 rear. Bulletproof as long as you maintain it. I asked what the maintenance was on the SL as it has a 520 aluminum gear but did not get a clear answer from Ducati other than "keep an eye on it". Im sure the SBK guys change them every race.

endodoc said:

I use the DID ERV3 520 on a modded motor with the Sitta 41 rear. Bulletproof as long as you maintain it. I asked what the maintenance was on the SL as it has a 520 aluminum gear but did not get a clear answer from Ducati other than "keep an eye on it". Im sure the SBK guys change them every race.

Click to expand...

hey endo,

i know you tried a ton of different flange, sprocket, carrier, and cush combinations, but if all i'm changing from the stock setup is a 520 chain + sitta rear sprocket, will I have any interface issues with spacers not sitting flush and wearing into the sprocket like you did with a sitta?

I really think the issue was me and maybe not going with a system instead of trying to mix and match to get what I wanted. Most (smart) people go with a kit (chain, sprockets, carrier, flange) or at least keep it brand consistent. I used a CNC flange, AEM carrier, AEM drive pins and AEM sprocket. I think the main culprit was the AEM Ti drive pins. With the AEM flange, the worked. With the CNC, they were a hair too long and that pushed the carrier back so it was not flush with the flange. Did it on the Sitta as well. I finally machined the pins a hair and all is well. During this vetting process I did manage to get my hands on just about every carrier, flange etc and measured all of them. There are some variables for sure in the specs. Ideally you want a flush carrier and flange that allows just a hair of play in the assemble as the sprocket does rotate fore and aft due to the "cush" design. If they are not flush its going to be too much play or not enough and then you will wear a groove in the carrier or sprocket if your going Sitta. Just mock things up and look at it. You will probably be fine like I said it was me having to use this weird stuff that led to issues.

timwu12 said:

hey endo,

i know you tried a ton of different flange, sprocket, carrier, and cush combinations, but if all i'm changing from the stock setup is a 520 chain + sitta rear sprocket, will I have any interface issues with spacers not sitting flush and wearing into the sprocket like you did with a sitta?

Click to expand...

Try the lightweight sprocket kit from motowheels. Everything will fit. The only issue I had was that I used a polyurethane cush drive from sprocket centre which had a different pitch thread to the very pretty bling CNC Ti nuts I bought. I rethreaded the nuts and voila. All done. No modification or stuffing around with any parts. No machining or fitment issues. Only had to rethread a couple of nuts. And I only had to do that as I did not want to use the nuts it came with.

I got a 41 tooth rear.

Thats being going well for about 18 months with one track day and a hard dyno session.