Hi im a new ducati owner ! I bought a 2016 ducati panagale r . Fuel questions

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So I bought the bike from a friend it currently has 3000 miles on it . He stored it in his house so it's never seen cold but he hasn't run it in a couple years . Before I start it I'm going to siphon the old gas from the tank and put a new battery in it . But should I use fuel injector cleaner in the first few tanks or can I even put it in the gas without damaging the engine. Any help would be appreciated this is my dream bike and I don't want to start off on the wrong foot lol
 
don’t put anything in the fuel buddy....drain the tank as you mention, and then fill with premium 91-93 (US ratings). let it idle a few moments before you ride it...don’t just rev it in N... you need to go drive the thing for 30-45 min minimum.


Also ensure you have at least 30psi in front and rear tires. Check the manufacture date on the tires too..they are good for 3-5yrs...after that i wouldnt trust the rubber on a super bike.

It will look like this: Y1936 -à that means Year 2019, Week 36 of 52.


If your clutch/brake fluid is black or piss orange then you need to flush and replace that as well.


Even if the fluid looks good, go ahead and bleed at the MC for the clutch (at the bars), I bet you’ve got a couple air bubbles there.



Listen to the motor carefully, if something is amiss youll hear and feel it buddy. Shift using the clutch to evaluate how well that is working too.

good luck and keep us posted my man
JAG
 
don’t put anything in the fuel buddy....drain the tank as you mention, and then fill with premium 91-93 (US ratings). let it idle a few moments before you ride it...don’t just rev it in N... you need to go drive the thing for 30-45 min minimum.


Also ensure you have at least 30psi in front and rear tires. Check the manufacture date on the tires too..they are good for 3-5yrs...after that i wouldnt trust the rubber on a super bike.

It will look like this: Y1936 -à that means Year 2019, Week 36 of 52.


If your clutch/brake fluid is black or piss orange then you need to flush and replace that as well.


Even if the fluid looks good, go ahead and bleed at the MC for the clutch (at the bars), I bet you’ve got a couple air bubbles there.



Listen to the motor carefully, if something is amiss youll hear and feel it buddy. Shift using the clutch to evaluate how well that is working too.

good luck and keep us posted my man
JAG

Thank you I appreciate the help . I'm picking it up Saturday and I don't want to even start it until I go over everything . Being that it's my friend I know it was stored in his house but but I'll check everything first . I'm sure they're the original tires so they'll need to be replaced even if they have very little miles on them . But atleast I know where to start this is the first ducati I've owned so I have to really take care of it .thanks again
 
you will be good for a test ride/shake down with the old tires...just no 130+ mph, or a large amount of lean...
 
Yah lol I used to do track days on a zx10r got my knee down a few times .that felt great but I'm older now (56) I'm not planning on going to nuts on this bike . Just country roads alone for fun . I don't think the knee is going down ever again lol
 
That's a nice find. Congrats!
I'd also change the oil and filter. The engine will be bone dry of oil at this point.

Should I start it to get the oil warm than do the oil service . I'm Def planning to do the oil immediately
 
With the V4 once it has been running you need to wait for 2 hours to check the oil. It takes a long time for all of the oil to flow from the heads to the sump. This is why dealerships overfill them.
 
With the V4 once it has been running you need to wait for 2 hours to check the oil. It takes a long time for all of the oil to flow from the heads to the sump. This is why dealerships overfill them.

I find this to be case with my 1199R.
 
That's a nice find. Congrats!
I'd also change the oil and filter. The engine will be bone dry of oil at this point.
I would add when you are done with oil change to engage engine stop button and crank the engine couple times for about 10 seconds. By doing this you will build up oil pressure indicated by oil light going out, also you will lubricate cams and valvetrain which have been dry for a while at low rpm and not @1000 rpm!
Nice score, congrats!
 
With the V4 once it has been running you need to wait for 2 hours to check the oil. It takes a long time for all of the oil to flow from the heads to the sump. This is why dealerships overfill them.

I just changed my oil. I drained it over night, put it in 6th gear and rotated the back wheel a couple of times. (That's a work out and a half, use your legs. ;P) That turns the oil pump and gets a lot more old oil out. Then I put in 3.2 liters of new oil a little at a time because, as mentioned, it takes a LONG time to get the oil down to the glass. I left, came back and the sightglass was full to the top. This turned out to be some air bubbles blocking the flow. I cranked engine without starting, bubble popped and found I was still down that .3 liters. Takes about 3.5 - 3.6liters. NOT 4! If you over fill, take an old spray bottle, drop its thin hose down into oil fill port, and squirt out into oil bottle the extra. Discard that it'll be dirty. Just go slow filling.
Taking the oil filter cap off: It is now at the bottom of the engine near the oil plug facing down. It has 3 screws. Take them out then put in the same holes M8 screws which are larger and won't enter the cap's thread holes but will push out the cap. Turn the 3 screws in 1 turn each at a time to extract the oil filter cap with extremely even parallel extraction.
Other detail, after overnight oil draining, use brake cleaner spray to clean the oil plug hole not getting too much into the oil pan. Use RTV silicon either Black Ultra with high heat rating / petroleum resistance, or Red RTV silicon with same character but very hi heat rating. Racing engine version. Put on oil plug bolt also cleaned well, and drilled for wiring. I wired mine to the exhaust spring hook.
I used nylon M8 bolts to get oil filter cap off. Also mark a spot on the cap to know how it goes back on. It's asymmetrical but quite optically confusing when lying under your bike.
photo_2023-06-06_22-56-04.jpg

This is for a V4S - Check the V4R torque specs. Might be different.
You may have to eyeball the drain plug torque. It's a ..... to get a socket wrench to. You may need an open end wrench 14mm.
Drain plug: target of 14 Nm with a range of 12 Nm (minimum) - 16 Nm (maximum)
Filter screws: target of 10 Nm with a range of 9 Nm (minimum) - 11 Nm (maximum)
 
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I drained it over night, put it in 6th gear and rotated the back wheel a couple of times. (That's a work out and a half, use your legs. ;P) That turns the oil pump and gets a lot more old oil out.

Good tip. I'm going to have to try that. I suppose it would also work to prime the bike when starting after storage or after draining.

It's asymmetrical but quite optically confusing when lying under your bike.
You should try safety wiring those bolts upside down lying under the bike. ;)
 
OK so the bike came with 2 batteries both of which I charged until I get the new one ! Drained the old fuel which smelled bad . Replaced with 93 octane cranked the engine to get oil moving . Everything looks good but now I'm trying to start it and it cranks but won't start am I doing something wrong? Turn the key on wait a few seconds to hear fuel pump I guess stop have it on stands front and rear kick stand up in neutral but it won't start? No error codes or anything all seems normal . This is my first ducati am I missing a step thanks again for the help
 
You likey just have old gas in the lines. The injectors could likely use a cleaning. When was the last time it started?

2 years ago the gas smelled like turpentine . Do I bring it to ducati to do the cleaning or is there an additive I can use ?
 
I'd think the additives are more for prevention than clearing a blockage, if they are in-fact gummed up. Ducati will probably just want to replace all of them, which won't be a cheap job. You can take them off and find a shop to clean them. Getting to them isn't as bad on the L-twin as compared to the V4.
 
I'd think the additives are more for prevention than clearing a blockage, if they are in-fact gummed up. Ducati will probably just want to replace all of them, which won't be a cheap job. You can take them off and find a shop to clean them. Getting to them isn't as bad on the L-twin as compared to the V4.

Any idea what u think they'd charge to clean them to get it running ?
 
Wild guess...$2000+, cause dealer prices. They'll likely just want to replace the 4 injectors, p/n 28040331A, which are $421.11 each.

If you shop around they are MUCH cheaper outside of the dealership. Do your own research though...you can take them to a shop to get cleaned, and there are even rebuild services.


Part 3 is the injector in this diagram. IIRC, on the L-Twin bikes getting here was as simple as pulling the tank off, which may be simple or end of the world depending on your comfort level.

1687140108623.png
 

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