What
Decided to make a write-up, this is a simple job, but I'm feeling ambitious. This is about the removal of the sound-proofing inside the clutch cover on the 1199 Panigale. I performed this on a 2012 1199s, and I am not sure how it may differ on the other iterations (R, normal, 899, 1299, etc.). I don't tend to do these write-ups, but I always like reading them, even if the job is simple and I already know how to do it. Sometimes it will spark the confidence level or serve as a reminder.
Where
Inside the clutch cover on the right-hand side of the engine is a metal cover with 6 bolts, which holds back a piece of foam/rubber.
Why
This removes 8.5 ounces of weight. Yep, that's it. Not very much, and that's it, no other performance to be expected out of this. I feel it's worth mentioning in this crowd, as I have been reading about people saving a few grams with titanium bolts and such. This is a 100% free and 100% reversable modification, and takes about 10 minutes to do. Yes, you can lose more weight getting a hair-cut, but you can also get a hair-cut and do this as well. If you decide to do this, maybe this will help you be more confident about it.
The purpose of this sound proofing panel inside the clutch cover is to dampen the noise from the clutch. If you've ever heard a dry-clutch, you'll know how loud a clutch can be. Kawasaki does a similar setup on their bikes, and I have removed these from my race bikes which have run for years on the race-track. Similarly, the aftermarket case covers for this bike (and others), do not utilize these sound dampers inside them, so expect the same result. There is one less thing between the ground and your engine internals now (not that this provides any real protection), but I ALWAYS recommend an aftermarket case cover over the stock cover if you intend to track your bike or in general have a risk of breaking a case cover. Any debris entering the engine could prove catastrophic.
How
The only prep you will need to do is:
1: Remove the one most rear allen bolt on the lower body panel so that you can move the lower out of the way of the lower bolts
2: Ensure the engine is cool. This is working on the engine, right above the exhaust. Best to do on a cool engine, giving time for the oil to drain down.
3: To be safe, I stuck a couple of paper towels above the exhaust so that no oil drops could land on the exhaust. While you could clean it off later, I felt is safer to prevent any fires
Steps
1: Un-do the bolts holding the clutch cover on the engine. They are all the same size, and are not loct-tited. Clutch-cover is on the right side of the bike:
2: Remove the cover. The cover has an O-Ring on it, which is re-usable, so be careful removing it or you will have to replace it if it tears. You will now see the below pic. If you intend to leave it alone, be sure to cover the opening as to prevent foreign objects from entering the engine. Cleanliness is key here.
3: Look inside your newly removed clutch cover, you will see 6 bolts and a metal cover. Remove these 6 bolts. These 6 bolts are loc-tited, so be prepared to put a little extra effort. If you wish to re-install the sound damper, be 100% sure to use a oil-safe /temp resistant loct-tite, and torque the bolts back to their proper torque. A bolt coming loose in your engine = bad day, blown engine.
4: With the bolts out, you can pull the sound deadening material out. The below pic shows the various parts. It all has to either stay in or come out, no partial removal here. Metal cover, rubber damper, and 6 bolts.
5: Throughly clean the clutch cover, and gasket surface before re-mounting. You don't want to have any sand/dirt/etc. in there when you put this back together. The o-ring should have a film of oil on it, the rest of the surfaces should be cleaned. A simple rag will work.
6: Loosely install the clutch cover with the bolts.
7: Torque down the clutch cover bolts to 10 Nm (~80 in/lb), using a star pattern. If you are confused, look in the service manual, it will explain step-by-step.
8: That's it. Install your fairing bolt removed in the prep. Remove the paper towels. Bike is ready to ride immediately as no new loc-tite/glue/etc. was used. That was easy, and it only takes 10 minutes.
Result
I couldn't tell any difference in noise, but I also have a Termignoni exhaust which is louder than any small amount of clutch noise. The weight isn't noticeable, but it all adds up right
About Me
I'm not a professional motorcycle mechanic/engineer. I have worked on motorcycles for 15 years as a hobby, and I was a professional aircraft mechanic for 6 years. I have raced (still am) with WERA, AHRMA, and MotoAmerica. I have built several motorcycles from the ground-up, and do almost all of my own work unless a special machine is required (like nitrogen charging the shock). So hopefully, I can be trusted somewhat, LOL.
Now go forth, you'll be the next Matt Mladin with this mod, haha.
Decided to make a write-up, this is a simple job, but I'm feeling ambitious. This is about the removal of the sound-proofing inside the clutch cover on the 1199 Panigale. I performed this on a 2012 1199s, and I am not sure how it may differ on the other iterations (R, normal, 899, 1299, etc.). I don't tend to do these write-ups, but I always like reading them, even if the job is simple and I already know how to do it. Sometimes it will spark the confidence level or serve as a reminder.
Where
Inside the clutch cover on the right-hand side of the engine is a metal cover with 6 bolts, which holds back a piece of foam/rubber.
Why
This removes 8.5 ounces of weight. Yep, that's it. Not very much, and that's it, no other performance to be expected out of this. I feel it's worth mentioning in this crowd, as I have been reading about people saving a few grams with titanium bolts and such. This is a 100% free and 100% reversable modification, and takes about 10 minutes to do. Yes, you can lose more weight getting a hair-cut, but you can also get a hair-cut and do this as well. If you decide to do this, maybe this will help you be more confident about it.
The purpose of this sound proofing panel inside the clutch cover is to dampen the noise from the clutch. If you've ever heard a dry-clutch, you'll know how loud a clutch can be. Kawasaki does a similar setup on their bikes, and I have removed these from my race bikes which have run for years on the race-track. Similarly, the aftermarket case covers for this bike (and others), do not utilize these sound dampers inside them, so expect the same result. There is one less thing between the ground and your engine internals now (not that this provides any real protection), but I ALWAYS recommend an aftermarket case cover over the stock cover if you intend to track your bike or in general have a risk of breaking a case cover. Any debris entering the engine could prove catastrophic.
How
The only prep you will need to do is:
1: Remove the one most rear allen bolt on the lower body panel so that you can move the lower out of the way of the lower bolts
2: Ensure the engine is cool. This is working on the engine, right above the exhaust. Best to do on a cool engine, giving time for the oil to drain down.
3: To be safe, I stuck a couple of paper towels above the exhaust so that no oil drops could land on the exhaust. While you could clean it off later, I felt is safer to prevent any fires
Steps
1: Un-do the bolts holding the clutch cover on the engine. They are all the same size, and are not loct-tited. Clutch-cover is on the right side of the bike:
2: Remove the cover. The cover has an O-Ring on it, which is re-usable, so be careful removing it or you will have to replace it if it tears. You will now see the below pic. If you intend to leave it alone, be sure to cover the opening as to prevent foreign objects from entering the engine. Cleanliness is key here.
3: Look inside your newly removed clutch cover, you will see 6 bolts and a metal cover. Remove these 6 bolts. These 6 bolts are loc-tited, so be prepared to put a little extra effort. If you wish to re-install the sound damper, be 100% sure to use a oil-safe /temp resistant loct-tite, and torque the bolts back to their proper torque. A bolt coming loose in your engine = bad day, blown engine.
4: With the bolts out, you can pull the sound deadening material out. The below pic shows the various parts. It all has to either stay in or come out, no partial removal here. Metal cover, rubber damper, and 6 bolts.
5: Throughly clean the clutch cover, and gasket surface before re-mounting. You don't want to have any sand/dirt/etc. in there when you put this back together. The o-ring should have a film of oil on it, the rest of the surfaces should be cleaned. A simple rag will work.
6: Loosely install the clutch cover with the bolts.
7: Torque down the clutch cover bolts to 10 Nm (~80 in/lb), using a star pattern. If you are confused, look in the service manual, it will explain step-by-step.
8: That's it. Install your fairing bolt removed in the prep. Remove the paper towels. Bike is ready to ride immediately as no new loc-tite/glue/etc. was used. That was easy, and it only takes 10 minutes.
Result
I couldn't tell any difference in noise, but I also have a Termignoni exhaust which is louder than any small amount of clutch noise. The weight isn't noticeable, but it all adds up right
About Me
I'm not a professional motorcycle mechanic/engineer. I have worked on motorcycles for 15 years as a hobby, and I was a professional aircraft mechanic for 6 years. I have raced (still am) with WERA, AHRMA, and MotoAmerica. I have built several motorcycles from the ground-up, and do almost all of my own work unless a special machine is required (like nitrogen charging the shock). So hopefully, I can be trusted somewhat, LOL.
Now go forth, you'll be the next Matt Mladin with this mod, haha.
