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- Apr 3, 2012
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- 1,088
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- NW Arkansas, USA
Thanks. Ya; it does look "rich," doesn't it.
How to remove the OEM Rear Sprocket and Hub/Flange assembly
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Thanks. Ya; it does look "rich," doesn't it.
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2012
- Messages
- 2,937
- Location
- Sydney, New South Wales, Australia
Very nice. Now all you need is some Ti pinch bolts. I just did my first bit of safety wiring. BTW I just went to 200 nm on the rear axle nut.
Back to lawn mowing.
Back to lawn mowing.
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2012
- Messages
- 1,088
- Location
- NW Arkansas, USA
With weather in the low 60s (17 C), it was the perfect weekend for testing the fruits of my labour with a 130+ mile ride on Saturday and a 260 mile ride on Sunday.
First of all, WOW. What a difference to the "ride-ability" of the bike on the road; third gear is actually relevant and it is so much easier to ride the bike faster. I can hardly wait for the first track day on our tight and technical, local track. I highly recommend people consider the 15/42 gearing combination; the bike pulls much better from 6,000 RPM and you can ride the torque in third gear for what seems like forever.
I did have one issue, however. I am not sure of the cause. The bike rode as if it had thrown its wheel weights. There was an unbalanced vibration coming from, what "felt" like, the rear wheel. I checked all the bolts, etc. and everything appears to still be tight and tidy and no missing wheel weights. I checked the chain in a couple of places for tension, which seemed perhaps slightly too loose (55 mm of dip instead of the recommended 50-to-52).
Ill get the bike up on the lift tonight to give it a thorough going over and measure the slack again in a few more spots on the chain (and tighten it to the recommended 50 mm of slack); but it sure would be good to have some ideas as to what I might want to look for. I don't recall the master link binding; I was careful not to put too much pressure when riveting that on (but I'll check that again as well).
Any thoughts on what might be causing this vibration? Could it just be that the additional 3-to-5 mm of play in the chain was too much and causing this?
First of all, WOW. What a difference to the "ride-ability" of the bike on the road; third gear is actually relevant and it is so much easier to ride the bike faster. I can hardly wait for the first track day on our tight and technical, local track. I highly recommend people consider the 15/42 gearing combination; the bike pulls much better from 6,000 RPM and you can ride the torque in third gear for what seems like forever.
I did have one issue, however. I am not sure of the cause. The bike rode as if it had thrown its wheel weights. There was an unbalanced vibration coming from, what "felt" like, the rear wheel. I checked all the bolts, etc. and everything appears to still be tight and tidy and no missing wheel weights. I checked the chain in a couple of places for tension, which seemed perhaps slightly too loose (55 mm of dip instead of the recommended 50-to-52).
Ill get the bike up on the lift tonight to give it a thorough going over and measure the slack again in a few more spots on the chain (and tighten it to the recommended 50 mm of slack); but it sure would be good to have some ideas as to what I might want to look for. I don't recall the master link binding; I was careful not to put too much pressure when riveting that on (but I'll check that again as well).
Any thoughts on what might be causing this vibration? Could it just be that the additional 3-to-5 mm of play in the chain was too much and causing this?
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