Idle gear (plastic) and primary sprocket failure – 2017 1299 Pani

Just received notice from DHL that my gears have shipped. Says they will be here by the 9th which is in 2 days. I'll believe THAT when i see it. Customs ought to slow things down a bit.

Amazingly quick shipping and Customs transit for my package. I ordered on the 4th and it arrived on the 10th. Pretty good IMHO. I ctualy expected it to take about 2 weeks

About the gear set. I really appreciate the lightening holes in the gears. You want them to transmit power, not add weight and momentum to the process (which would increase cumulative wear). The thrust washer was on the outside of the bubble wrap, which is fine. I expected it to be on the inside of one of the bubble wrap packs. It's snowing here at the moment, and the temps are in the low 30's I'm planning on doing the installation on Monday when it will be in the mid 40's.

So I was changing the gears today, basically I just pulled things to the side for clearance and removed the bolts and the cover came off with no hassles. All the cover bolts seemed to be under-torqued and my lightweight 3/8" drill easily broke them loose. They will definitely better a bit tighter when reinstalled. A little jiggling and it was out and took all of about 2 minutes to change the gears. Then I started cleaning things up using Carburetor cleaner and a paper towel. The factory sealant came off very easily and was very soft and pliable, which may explain a bit of oil seepage I hade from teh bottom of that cover. While checking out all the OE pieces, I checked the o-ring mentioned above and it seems fine so I'll re-use it. However, I checked the seal from the end of the crankshaft to the cover, which ensures no oil leaks between the pressure passage in the crankshaft and the oil pressure sending unit. I noticed what looked like a rubber filament inside the metal part of the seal. I used some small needle-nosed pliers to pull it out, then did a close examination of the seal itself. There appears to be a slot in the seal body for the lip of a rubber seal, but there is no rubber seal. The crankshaft snout is 14mm and the inside of the metal part of the seal is 14.3mm, which seems terribly excessive. I found some pictures on line that show what appears to be a wide rubber lip, so I'm presuming that this seal assembly is now bad and needs replacement.

Any help out there?

Thanks in advance.

Here's some shots of the OEM gears. They look pristine at 11 years old and 28,000 miles. I use Motul 7100 15W50 or 20W50 exclusively since the first oil change I did at 10,000 miles (bought used at 9500 miles). Oil is changed every 7500 miles according to the service interval from that time.

Word of advice, to position safely and correctly cover with sealant applied to it, get yourself two long bolts with same thread pitch as stock cover bolts. Cut heads off and install them on the engine at opposite side from each other. They will be your easy guide how to install and align cover without holding it with one hand attempting to align holes while trying to start two bolts with other hand.

Bo13R said:

Word of advice, to position safely and correctly cover with sealant applied to it, get yourself two long bolts with same thread pitch as stock cover bolts. Cut heads off and install them on the engine at opposite side from each other. They will be your easy guide how to install and align cover without holding it with one hand attempting to align holes while trying to start two bolts with other hand.

Click to expand...

This is super smart. I’ve got a generator cover that needs replacing and can imagine the stator/magnet can get tricky. Will have 4 posts for this job just in case

Thanks for the advice. The cover and crankcase have barrel guides in two locations as well. Once the cover is on them it's not going to move either.

I ordered the crankshaft end seal today from Cross Country Ducati in New Jersey. Bike is going to be down for 2 weeks while it comes across from Italy. Well, on the bright side, the seal was so degraded/nonexistent that I'm surprised I had enough pressure going to the oil pressure sensor. In the pictures of the new seal, the rubber lip looks like it's about 3mm or more wide. The piece of rubber I removed was very thin, probably less than 1mm, so I doubt it had sealed properly in a long time. So I get the steel gears, totally resealed crankcase that won't seep any more and the questionable seal is replaced with a brand new one. Except for the waiting time and extra cost, it's a win win win situation.

Until the bottom end let’s go…

SuperDomestique said:

Until the bottom end let’s go…

Click to expand...

like THIS 1299 did a few thousand miles later! Con-rod bearing ate $hit3

JAG

I don't beat the engine very hard and seldom see the high side of 10K. Dyno runs notwithstanding, I shift at the first shift warning light, which I have set at 10K, and since I mostly just ride for the sake of it, hammering the throttle just isn't in my repertoire... unless some fool on an R6 wants to play. What is it about R6 and gixxer 600-750 riders? They never learn. I'm usually like. . .really??? you have GOT to be kidding me...