Impressions: Water Wetter in 1199

SOULRIDER said:

Great post!

I run Water Wetter in all my bikes. We have had a few colder the usual weeks recently, so I was holding off. I'm glad to hear it made a difference.

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TransNone13 said:

I looked and didn't see anybody post up details about coolant flush and swaps. I changed my coolant to Purple Ice at 600 miles, then to water wetter a week ago.

The Purple Ice didn't do much in dropping my temps, but of note the coolant was a nasty blue/green (mixture of stock and Purple Ice I assume) fluid that was very milky. Flushed that 3 times with distilled water, then added distilled water with water wetter (track compliant) and my engine temps PLUMMETED. Around 70 degrees ambient, the bike is around 170 when moving and takes far longer to get over 200 in traffic. The combination of a better coolant and flushing out the old milky fluid made a huge difference. I would highly recommend this. All you need is to remove the right lower (optional) and upper, and the left lower. Grab a funnel and some tubing, drain, flush, then fill. Obviously you want to run it a couple of times and continue to top it off before putting the panels back on.

Hope others find this helpful.

Click to expand...

TransNone13 said:

I looked and didn't see anybody post up details about coolant flush and swaps. I changed my coolant to Purple Ice at 600 miles, then to water wetter a week ago.

The Purple Ice didn't do much in dropping my temps, but of note the coolant was a nasty blue/green (mixture of stock and Purple Ice I assume) fluid that was very milky. Flushed that 3 times with distilled water, then added distilled water with water wetter (track compliant) and my engine temps PLUMMETED. Around 70 degrees ambient, the bike is around 170 when moving and takes far longer to get over 200 in traffic. The combination of a better coolant and flushing out the old milky fluid made a huge difference. I would highly recommend this. All you need is to remove the right lower (optional) and upper, and the left lower. Grab a funnel and some tubing, drain, flush, then fill. Obviously you want to run it a couple of times and continue to top it off before putting the panels back on.

Hope others find this helpful.

Click to expand...

Gunny Fitz said:

When you say Purple Ice do you mean "Engine Ice? or something different?
I have used ENGINE ICE for years in all bikes w great result in heat etc, but now they banned it from most tracks (or at least most Club Level racing and some schools) but that doesnt apply to me much anymore.

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Hogdog said:

Does Water Wetter have any anti-corrosive properties? I'd prefer to run something that's safe to run long-term rather than changing out every track day. Opinions on the best all-around coolant would be appreciated.

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WaterWetter®
Unique agent for cooling systems that doubles the wetting ability of water
Rust and corrosion protection allows for use of straight water in racing or reduced antifreeze levels in warm climates
Improves heat transfer and reduces cylinder head temperature
May allow more spark advance for increase power and efficiency
Use one bottle for most passenger cars and light trucks, treats 3 to 5 gallons or 13.2 to 15.9 liters. Vehicles with larger cooling systems should use two bottles. Small cooling systems should use 1oz (3 to 4 capfuls) per quart
Compatible with new or used antifreeze (including DEX-COOLTM and long-life versions) to improve the heat transfer of ethylene and propylene glycol systems
Satisfies ASTM D2570 and ASTM D1384 corrosion tests for glycol-based antifreezes

ABOUT RED LINE WATERWETTER® COOLANT ADDITIVES
Reduces or eliminates bubbles or vapor barrier that form on hot metal surfaces to reduce coolant temperatures by up to 20°
Superior heat transfer properties compared to glycol-based antifreeze
Compatible with new or used antifreeze (including DEX-COOL and long-life versions) to improve the heat transfer of ethylene and propylene glycol systems
Improves heat transfer and reduces cylinder head temperature
Designed for use with all modern aluminum, cast iron, copper, brass and bronze cooling systems
Cleans and lubricates water pump seals
Reduces cavitation and complexes with hard water to reduce scaling
Does not lower cooling system below the thermostatically-controlled temperature

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