OEM rearset work around

B Topp · Jan 18, 2021

So after owning the 16 Panigale R now for a bit over a year, there has been one thing that has bugged me since the beginning. I ....... hate free play/ slop in my shift linkage! The OEM rear set/ shift linkage had way too much free play in it for my taste. I'm good with their position and don't have a ground clearance issue. So then the question was, what to do about it? I could, A- buy a new set of rearsets for anywhere from say $500 up to $1200, B- live with it or C- fix it. I chose to try to fix it. So for those of you interested, her is what I did.

The OEM shift linkage has a brass bushing and a bolt that goes through it. There are 2 o rings in there also. The bolt threads into the shift lever.

The slop/ free play seems to come from the bolt OD and the bushings ID being too far apart. So, what to do about it?
I opted to explore the possibility of installing a bearing in there.

I was able to find a bearing with a 17mm OD, 10mm ID and 20mm wide. Then the question was, what to do for the bolt. I got my hands on two10mm bolts that I was able to machine down to 8mm to thread into the shift lever. Then made two washers for either side.

The end result, Zero slop in the lever!!!!! I'm into this project for a total of $160 or so for the 3 bearings, 17mm end mill, 2 bolts shipped from Taiwan.
I also did this to the brake lever as well. And again, zero free play in the lever!!

Don14R · Jan 18, 2021

My buddy Braden had the dealer install the Corse rear sets (and some other cool stuff tall windscreen seat etc) before he even rode the bike away from the dealer

They give you really good prices on that stuff when they are charging msrp plus 15% for the bike : )

I told him he was crazy at the time but ended up grateful that the bike had extras when he wanted to get rid of it

Corse rear sets do have a oring but I’m not so sure it’s a good idea? Drag wise. I would rather take them apart clean and lube often than have the drag

The tolerance for the bushing to shaft is really tight but I still would like bearings. It’s actually the foot peg mount that the lever pivots on and ya really can’t turn that down to fit thru a bearing tho

My biggest complaint on these isn’t the lack of bearings tho, it’s slop in the cheap rod ends that Ducati uses. Of course they over complicated the .... outta it and there are more rod ends there needs to be

Nice job on yours!

Araitim · Jan 18, 2021

It's crazy that even some aftermarket rearsets use bushings. I seek out the ones with bearings. A few years back I machined out an oem lever and fitted 2 ceramic cartridge bearings. Worked great till I bought aftermarket rearsets...with bearing pivots. Great diy tip!

Don14R · Jan 18, 2021

Who makes the best 6mm rod ends?

Paul G · Jan 18, 2021

The stock rearsets are actually pretty good in terms of weight, position, grip but its always bugged me how poorly executed the details are, looking forward to seeing how your solution rolls over time. In theory a good bushing is perfectly acceptable, lots of surface area to load bear and even woodcrafts have bushes so its about the quality of the fit and finish. As for the rod ends, they are sloppy as well and finally the splined output shaft is also a source of slop. You only need tiny amounts of play to translate into big slop at the lever. I tried to address the problem the old fashioned way with brass shim, better than stock but not ideal

Don14R · Jan 18, 2021

Wait you shimmed the bolts going thru the ends?

As in pressed a bushing into them and reamed it to the tightest fit?

Paul G · Jan 18, 2021

neg

I used some engineers shim material and wrapped the pivot bolt

Paul G · Jan 18, 2021

the rod ends look pretty standard, just need to find some quality items

Ryfly05 · May 11, 2021

So I know it's an old thread, but after putting new rearsets on my bike, it reduced the slop/free play by about 95%. I found the remaining 5% on one of my stock rod ends with 24k+ miles. After doing way more research than I should've for rod ends, the best I came up with is Aurora bearings AM-M6T. I got mine from pegasus auto racing. Pegasus part # is 3066-m6x1.0-r. Should be way overkill for shift linkage, but I like overkill when it comes to quality/durability. So if anyones looking for the best m6 rod end, that's the one.

Don14R · May 11, 2021

When I was looking for some I saw those but they still have a Teflon race. I want metal on metal damn it! I ended up ordering from translogic and paid the crazy shipping but I don’t think there is any Teflon in them. Then I decided to go with gp shift and wouldn’t ya know it my rear sets no longer require the link rod with the 6mm rod rods ha

Ryfly05 · May 11, 2021

Don14R said:
When I was looking for some I saw those but they still have a Teflon race. I want metal on metal damn it! I ended up ordering from translogic and paid the crazy shipping but I don’t think there is any Teflon in them. Then I decided to go with gp shift and wouldn’t ya know it my rear sets no longer require the link rod with the 6mm rod rods ha

You can get them without the teflon if you want. Same part # without the T at the end. I wanted the teflon as its self lubricating and less maintenance, and has the same load rating as no teflon.

Don14R · May 11, 2021

Seams like Teflon would create resistance? I wanted mine tight end to end but easy to spin. That and I was thinking it’s the Teflon that wears and creates slop. Who knows. Keep a eye on them and replace when they wear - all good : )

chris16 · May 11, 2021

BTW
on the switch side is a m8 thread without lock nut. i don't like the idea to loosen it.
i replaced the inbus screw with a standard one, and when adjusting i remove it and turn the uniball.
not the best solution. how do you handle this?

Don14R · May 11, 2021

I was talking about the little m6 linkage that is part of the DC rear sets when used for standard pattern. Not sure what you are referring to?

chris16 · May 11, 2021

about possible/upcoming play (?) in the shift rod M8 thread, which is not locked. (or locked only when full screwed in)
i always keep that full in. makes adjusting uncomfortable because i have to rotate the ball head instead of the rod.
maybe thats not nessecary and the M8 thread stays stable even when loose?

Don14R · May 11, 2021

I don’t believe any of them are 8 mm thread

Why not just wack 200 thou off the end and put your own jam nut???

Nazar · Aug 15, 2021

B Topp said:
So after owning the 16 Panigale R now for a bit over a year, there has been one thing that has bugged me since the beginning. I ....... hate free play/ slop in my shift linkage! The OEM rear set/ shift linkage had way too much free play in it for my taste. I'm good with their position and don't have a ground clearance issue. So then the question was, what to do about it? I could, A- buy a new set of rearsets for anywhere from say $500 up to $1200, B- live with it or C- fix it. I chose to try to fix it. So for those of you interested, her is what I did.

The OEM shift linkage has a brass bushing and a bolt that goes through it. There are 2 o rings in there also. The bolt threads into the shift lever.
View attachment 35503 View attachment 35504

The slop/ free play seems to come from the bolt OD and the bushings ID being too far apart. So, what to do about it?
I opted to explore the possibility of installing a bearing in there.

View attachment 35505

I was able to find a bearing with a 17mm OD, 10mm ID and 20mm wide. Then the question was, what to do for the bolt. I got my hands on two10mm bolts that I was able to machine down to 8mm to thread into the shift lever. Then made two washers for either side.
View attachment 35506 View attachment 35507

The end result, Zero slop in the lever!!!!! I'm into this project for a total of $160 or so for the 3 bearings, 17mm end mill, 2 bolts shipped from Taiwan.
I also did this to the brake lever as well. And again, zero free play in the lever!!

I would like to do this mod also. Already found the bearing: IKO TA1020Z Needle Roller Bearing.
What about the 2 rubber o-rings that are used in the oem setup? Did u have the space to reuse them? If not can there get water into the bearing?

Can u please post a link or some details about the bolts u used?

Thanks!

B Topp · Aug 16, 2021

I ended up making a jig that would hold the rearset in place to run the endmill in square to the fitting. I got the Ti bolt from Proti and used 2 O rings in between the washers I made

OEM rearset work around

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