Ohlins TTX GP Rear Shock

I have a 23 V2. I never track it. I use it as my daily city ride. I feel every bump and crack in the road. I’m 5’7” 180lbs. I’ve tried adjusting the shock with little difference. Will upgrading to the Ohlins make a "noticeable" difference for $1500?

what is your rider sag right now? ive found too much AND too little both give me that harsh "i can feel everything" feeling...and it does suck.
on my V4, 15mm of preload was too much, and 9mm preload was too little...

my rider sag between both only varied from 23mm to 30mm...

i'm at 11ish mm preload and 29mm rider sag, and happy as a clam!

Now this wont directly translate to your V2...for sure...but if you dont know your free and rider SAG, start there. shoot for 25-30mm front and rear RIDER, and 20mm front free sag, and 15-20mm rear free sag.

just upgrading your rear wont solve anything if its not dialed in either.

good luck,
Jag

No need to thank me mate

Someone just discovered ChatGPT

I think Ohlins make a big difference all the time. For street and sport. Lighter wheels will make a difference too. But the thing you can try immediately is letting a few lbs. of air out of the tires. And making dang sure they aren’t over inflated.

Oh, you can also get a gel seat, and you can get those padded handlebar grips. I hate them for sport riding, but they can make a big difference.

Well set up Ohlins will be noticeable. Most likely you have too much preload (especially if you haven’t changed this) as JAG posted. Adjusting the damper won’t do anything to remedy improper preload

A brand new, $1500 shock won't fix poor setup.
Dave Moss tutorials are all over Youtube, and are a good start to educate yourself on proper adjustment; there are a lot of variables, and any one of them being out of whack will negatively impact ride quality.
Where are your compression and rebound adjusters? Don't know? Turn them all the way in until they stop, then all the way out until they stop while counting the clicks or revolutions. Then put them both at the halfway point to start with. Keep notes.
What is the number on your spring? You can look up the code online, it will show you an intended rider weight range. If you are outside of that, you need a new spring. The spring rate determines the action of the shock and there is no way to properly dial in a spring that is too soft or too stiff for you.
Do you have setup information on the forks? If your forks are too stiff or have not enough sag, that will put the bike in a squat causing the rear to pack up. Typically on sport bikes you should have around 5mm more rider sag in the front than the rear, to keep the front planted during hard acceleration and good compression for control under braking. My street bike is 35mm F/30mm R and kills it in canyons, Track bike is 20mm F/15mm R for the super smooth surface and extremely hard braking.
Is your chain properly adjusted? If it is too tight it can negatively influence suspension articulation.
As Rocket mentioned, don't forget tire pressures- if you have the rear at the dealer set pressure (in manual), that is far too high, intended to reduce liability when riding 2-up. I personally never run above 34psi on the street, looking for grip above mileage, with 2-4psi lower on the rear than the front.

A professional suspension shop will cover all of these bases and more if you have the ability. Otherwise, learn as much as you can as there are a lot of resources out there, and make very small adjustments one at a time and keep track. Guidelines are good starting points but in the end it comes down to how the bike feels for you specifically- you may prefer a softer setup than what is suggested. It's all about confidence and control.