Oil change?!

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For those who have experienced how much of a pain in the ass removing the filter coverplate is--do you either 1) have any tricks for dislodging it easily or 2) think it's a pain in the ass enough of a problem to actually purchase a modded cover (on an exchange basis) that makes it easy to remove?

My Ducati mechanic showed me how to use a pry-bar very gently to remove the cover. The trick is to move it a little on each side so that you are effectively pulling the cover straight off. You do NOT want to lever too much on one side before going to th other... just crack one side then the other. If you cannot pull it straight off, maintaining the original angle to the engine, with your fingers, pry a little more on one side then the other. The trick is very small increments so that you maintain the cover parallel to the engine (as it is when bolted down).

This is a link to the type of tool you can use: Craftsman Rolling Wedge Bar - Tools - Hand Tools - Pry Bars & Nail Pullers

You do not need much force at all, and so a little bar is best.
I hope this helps.
 
I think this may be a good time to post this in the "How To" section with PHOTOS.

One for the knowledge and two to keep Gunny's blood pressure down!:D
 
I was just gonna wait until the engine burns it all up, then add to the min/max line. ...oil change complete!

211001d1297718789-70-ipa-good-iso-hash-guinness-brilliant.jpg%3Fstc%3D1
 
I've been around engines of all sorts longer than I care and got my oil changing rule:

Delay or mileage suggested by the manufacturer is fine. It's usually a certain mileage or once a year.

In applications that involve heavy loads such as racing you should decrease intervals.

When an engine keeps a steady oil level over a period of time and all of a sudden starts to burn oil slightly it's time to change no matter where in the cycle you are. It basically means that the molecules in your oil are breaking up and it's lubrication capabilities are compromised.
 
My Ducati mechanic showed me how to use a pry-bar very gently to remove the cover. The trick is to move it a little on each side so that you are effectively pulling the cover straight off. You do NOT want to lever too much on one side before going to th other... just crack one side then the other. If you cannot pull it straight off, maintaining the original angle to the engine, with your fingers, pry a little more on one side then the other. The trick is very small increments so that you maintain the cover parallel to the engine (as it is when bolted down).

Yeah, that was the same trick we used to get the cover off....it took Ray and I about 10 minutes and is a bitch. My thought was to weld a little AL fitting onto the center of the cover, which would allow us to simply pull it straight off without having to pry it. It's thin AL, but I've got a guy who can weld Ti or AL like a madman. Would make the process far easier.

For anyone who does this the first time, be VERY careful when prying it. You can easily damage it if you don't do it in little increments. To help anyone reading along visualize, the part looks like this:

OilFilterCover_zps8eb33fe5.jpg


Instructions (on this forum from Ray916MN):

"Remove the left lower. Take some aluminum foil and make a v-shaped cover for the silencers to prevent oil from getting on the silencer and drain any oil from the oil filter compartment when the filter cover is removed into your drain pan. Remove the drain plug. Remove the two bolts which hold the cover to the oil filter compartment. Get a small piece of wood to protect the engine cases and use as a fulcroum point with a #2 flat screwdriver. Gently and gradually work the lower edge of the filter cover at alternate ends to wiggle the cover off. On the oil filter side of the cover is a cylindrical bore with two o-rings, so it takes some patience to coax the cover off.

Once the cover is off take the tip of the #2 screwdriver and push the oil pressure relief valve (black disc in the end of the oil filter) in and hook the edge of the filter with the scewdriver and pull the cartridge filter out.

Replace the filter, put the cover back on, screw the drain plug back in, remove the aluminum foil and wipe everything off to make sure there is no oil on the engine or silencer and put the lower back on. Fill with oil. It takes about 3.5 quarts. Using a flashlight you can see enough of the oil level window on the other side of the bike to see how full the bike is. Start the bike, check the level again and fill till you get the level in the window to the top mark.

The torque value of the oil filter cover bolts and oil drain plug are 13NM (9.6 ft. lbs)"

If I can add: take a felt tip marker and dot the bottom of the oil filter cover. Upon first inspection, the cover appears symmetrical, but it's not. The dot will help you reinstall it without having to think twice.

Originally Posted by zvez
Parts numbers for filter and 2 o-rings
Filter is 444.4.029.2B
two O-rings #886.5.056.1A
 
Yeah, that was the same trick we used to get the cover off....it took Ray and I about 10 minutes and is a bitch. My thought was to weld a little AL fitting onto the center of the cover, which would allow us to simply pull it straight off without having to pry it. It's thin AL, but I've got a guy who can weld Ti or AL like a madman. Would make the process far easier.

Had similar thoughts at first when I did mine, among some less charitable ones. Was thinking of drilling it in the center and putting in a thread insert with a bolt. Remove bolt, screw in a slide hammer and pop it out. Really just needs the cover redesigned with a wee bit more support and some pry points on it. I say we all challenge Rupert Stadler to change it once on his own. Suspect the phone would be ringing in Bologna not long after... :cool:
 
Had similar thoughts at first when I did mine, among some less charitable ones. Was thinking of drilling it in the center and putting in a thread insert with a bolt. Remove bolt, screw in a slide hammer and pop it out. Really just needs the cover redesigned with a wee bit more support and some pry points on it. I say we all challenge Rupert Stadler to change it once on his own. Suspect the phone would be ringing in Bologna not long after... :cool:

If there's enough interest I can request more be made than just one for me. PM me if you're interested. On exchange I'm guessing it'd be ~$50 each or ~$110 outright?

I thought about drilling, too, but worry that something protruding on the other side could cause an issue (not to mention leaks).
 
Mine's every 3,000 miles. Maintenance of car is an important issue to consider. Keeping your car well maintained is the key to preventing breakdowns in dangerous areas. The engine needs to have clean oil to function properly. The oil change takes a matter of ten to fifteen minutes and does not cost that much to do. You need to make sure to always schedule regular maintenance on your automobile as well, even if it costs you a payday loan. Keep up the maintenance on you car and it should last for years. No matter what, taking care of your automobile will always pay in the end. :)
 
When I removed the oil filter cover, I found that there is cut a 7 mm thread in the bolt holes.....

I didn't have 2 pcs of 7mm bolts, so I cut new 8mm instead. No problem removing the cover now :)
 
MOBIL 1 makes and offers 15W-50 in the states...

"I will comment on the 15W-50 weight specifically as it is one of the few current oils that do not contain Friction Modifiers. This is important for use in motorcycles since motorcycle clutches are bathed in engine oil and oils with Friction Modifiers may cause the clutch to slip.
For some reason, Walmart only carries Mobil1 15W-50 in a very few of its larger stores. Unfortunate."
 
Interval depends on what you do with the bike.
My dealer used Castrol Power RS Racing 4T SAE 10W-50 during the first service.
Never had any issues with smoke or having to add oil.
 
Anyone tried Agip?

Yeap. On both 1098 and mv agusta though. 10W 60. Not panigale.

Didnt like it. On both bikes bad feeling while changing gears and N not easily found. For the mv also slightly higher temepratures.
 
Is it confirmed that cover is Al and not something like Mag.?
Have a friend willing to weld a flange to it with a couple of holes drilled so I can slip an exhaust spring puller in it and just pull it off. But would like composition confirmed before he starts welding...
 
Is it confirmed that cover is Al and not something like Mag.?
Have a friend willing to weld a flange to it with a couple of holes drilled so I can slip an exhaust spring puller in it and just pull it off. But would like composition confirmed before he starts welding...

Cover is AL as per my dealers part list.
 
Of course and I'd buy an aftermarket cover for sure.

i agree aftermarket but i have yet to see one for the 1199. as far as i know as of now none available. there is a ducati stealer on ebay 40 for the filter and the kush washers etc includes shipping
 

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