Preload (Ohlins Forks)

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Hi,

I'm gonna preface this by saying that I'm a little lazy and don't have anyone to help me unload the bike, measure static sag etc.....

So, could someone please give me a few tips here, as I'm sure that preload settings should be pretty transferable, based on rider weight.

I'm around 80kg kitted and so far have added one notch of preload - that is I turned the adjuster the distance from one dimple to the next (36 degrees or so).

Question, is this much and for those that took the scientific measuring approach, can you remember how many turns were added?

FWIW, I do have a cable tie on the fork, so can see it made some difference :p
 
LOL - this is like me giving lessons, when I wanted some info :)

So, before we go any further, should I explain what the F preload is?
 
What the F is kg ?

Murica

For the benefit of the uneducated.
He is refering to a metric unit of measurement of weight called a Kilogram. Or 1000 Grams.
A Kg is close to the equivalent of 2.2 Lbs, for those of you who went to school.
If further explanation is required, then you probably wouldn't understand.
 
I weigh 190 lbs. and I softened my front end fork spring (one side only) one step (Dan Kyle Racing in Sand City, CA has all the Ohlins parts). Upon doing that I measured sag and it was spot on at 40mm per Dan's recommendation. This tells me the OEM springing in the front is like that in the rear - it is too stiff. I softened the shock spring two steps, and have reduced compression damping to the absolute minimum (#31), as well as have removed all spring preload for the shock. It is finally tracking bumps through the turns nearly correctly. It has been a long road so far. I have the shock link on F.
 
Hi,

I'm gonna preface this by saying that I'm a little lazy and don't have anyone to help me unload the bike, measure static sag etc.....

So, could someone please give me a few tips here, as I'm sure that preload settings should be pretty transferable, based on rider weight.

I'm around 80kg kitted and so far have added one notch of preload - that is I turned the adjuster the distance from one dimple to the next (36 degrees or so).

Question, is this much and for those that took the scientific measuring approach, can you remember how many turns were added?

FWIW, I do have a cable tie on the fork, so can see it made some difference :p

The preload turns quite a few complete turns, so "notches" won't really work. Im about 190lb fully kitted so I would be willing to measure the amount of turns I use for you. It will be slightly off, but close enough. Im guessing your suspension is not tuned one bit, so I don't know how much this will actually help you. The rear needs to be done before the front. Then you have rebound, compression, in the front and rear, etc.

It would be beneficial for you to pay a professional. Its only about $60


I weigh 190 lbs. and I softened my front end fork spring (one side only) one step (Dan Kyle Racing in Sand City, CA has all the Ohlins parts). Upon doing that I measured sag and it was spot on at 40mm per Dan's recommendation. This tells me the OEM springing in the front is like that in the rear - it is too stiff. I softened the shock spring two steps, and have reduced compression damping to the absolute minimum (#31), as well as have removed all spring preload for the shock. It is finally tracking bumps through the turns nearly correctly. It has been a long road so far. I have the shock link on F.

This sounds like its setup for comfort, not optimal cornering. Am I right?
 
@EvoL, I would be happy to have my bike setup, but it would involve me crating it up and heading somewhere like Italy, as no local skills.

If you could measure the preload turns, that would be highly appreciated :)
 
EvoL is very kindly giving me his preload settings :)

Just wondered, does anyone know the factory standard setting?
 
I did 13 from full out. 185lbs bare weight, 200lbs with. (or so)

On the rear, I can't remember around 1cm of thread showing? I can check if you'd like.

Kyle

Factory for me was around 12.
 
EvoL is very kindly giving me his preload settings :)

Just wondered, does anyone know the factory standard setting?


Factory Rear preload: 23mm; found mine to be 21. Backed off (reduced) to 15mm. My weight is 200lbs gear up.

Factory Front preload (from manual): 8mm; found this to be almost 7 complete turns in (6.7). Backed off two turns.
 
Factory Rear preload: 23mm; found mine to be 21. Backed off (reduced) to 15mm. My weight is 200lbs gear up.

Factory Front preload (from manual): 8mm; found this to be almost 7 complete turns in (6.7). Backed off two turns.

Hmm, your front preload is much softer than mine. Makes me wonder if I should redo it. I was meticulous last time.
 
Hmm, your front preload is much softer than mine. Makes me wonder if I should redo it. I was meticulous last time.

Before backing off the front preload two turns from the factory setting my rider on SAG was 29mm. Haven't remeasured yet but I imagine it's around 30 - 31mm now.
Haven't played with the electronics yet. Feels pretty good as is though using 'Sport' default compression and rebound settings. Probably go with this on the track as well, at least initially.
 
180lbs full gear.


Fully backed off + 2 full turns gets me 38-40mm preload up front
 
I'm about 160 w/o gear, so maybe 175ish with full gear. I'm finding it impossible to get the front fork rider sag under 30mm for the track. With the 10n.m springs that are in the Ohlins forks, I'm surprised I have to turn nearly to max just to get 33mm in the front for rider sag. Anyone else have this problem?
 
Last edited:
... have removed all spring preload for the shock.
So with the bike lifted at the rear your free length on the shock spring is the same as the installed length?! That would be REAL bad. You need top out and installed preload should be at a minimum 10 mm less than free length. What was your bike and rider sag?
 
I'm about 160 w/o gear, so maybe 175ish with full gear. I'm finding it impossible to get the front fork rider sag under 30mm for the track. With the 10n.m springs that are in the Ohlins forks, I'm surprised I have to turn nearly to max just to get 33mm in the front for rider sag. Anyone else have this problem?

Why are you "trying" to get UNDER 30 mm rider sag on the fork?!

Ideally you want 40 mm front and 30 mm rear rider sag. This is ALWAYS a good starting point.

I think I need to give a class.... :)
 
Why are you "trying" to get UNDER 30 mm rider sag on the fork?!

Ideally you want 40 mm front and 30 mm rear rider sag. This is ALWAYS a good starting point.

I think I need to give a class.... :)

Do it! haha I'm specifically referring to the front forks. I read and hear that sub 30 mm rider sag is ideal for the track/racing. What makes you say 40 mm rider sag as the starting point?
 
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