rear disc brake rotor issue

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konrads

konrads

Joined
Apr 2, 2013
Messages
87
Location
Union County, NJ
Hey guys,
looking for some help on the disc brake rotor issue i noticed yesterday after taking the bike out for a ride.. when using the rear brake i started to feel like there may have been a little dirt, maybe sand got between the brake pad and the rotor and though it will grind itself out.. but when i got off the bike it looked like a more serious issue..

ONLY ON THE RIGHT SIDE of the rotor i have these patches, all throughout the rotor, they stick out above it and the whole rotor feels very jagged to the touch :confused:

i couldnt find a definite answer on google.. the closest thing i found is that this could be friction transfer from the brake pad? i never slam on the rear brake so i'm very puzzled...

do you think i need to get the rotor replaced?
should i report this to the dealership in hopes that they can replace it?

(rode it to jones beach to take some photos) :cool:
 

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What are you doing getting on the rear so hard??????
There's absolutely no legitimate reason for that on a rear:mad:
Sorry but you've been flogging the living daylights out of the rear.
There'll be no warranty for you my friend:(

See the blue heat marks near the inner edge of the friction zone where it mounts to the carrier, also the blue heat ring around the outer edge of the rotor.
That's the give away.

You have also had the brake pad start to pick up on bits of itself that's already bonded to the rotor. It just tears the pad apart and it starts to bond onto itself.

I've only ever seen this on the front rotors of race bikes.
Never ever on the rear.
You are much too much hard on the gear.

You need to get some superbike school riding lessons before you kill yourself.
IMO. Get yourself a book called Smooth Riding by Pridmore.
Or just learn to ride properly. Not like a lunatic out of control.

Maybe your also trolling.
I don't know
This beggars belief:mad:
 
Last edited:
maybe when you installed the rear sets the pad is dragging? I'd check your pads, may have fried them.
 
Brad said:
Show us some pictures of the front rotors for comparison:(
Click to expand...

My bet is they are unused.....:D

But seriously..this is very puzzling unless rear brake is being abused...
 
Last edited:
Easy answer: the compound on the brake pad came off (shows it in pic) on one side and the steel plate ground the disc down.
Warranty.
 
I can't remember the last time I used the rear brake, could be an age thing though:D
Hope it's not from use but a malfunctioning rear brake.
 
Brad,
But thats what got me, i'm very gentle and smooth on the bike, i never slam on the rear, i never raced anyone. the only time i use the rear is to support the front when i need to come to a sudden stop but i dont put much pressure on it. ive been riding the bike all year and all of a sudden this happened..

if in fact the little pressure i put on it is too much.. well then i'm just gonna need to work on getting out of that habit

the left side is completely smooth
 
I just reviewed the last pic of your bike at the beach.

You've been flogging the living daylights out of the fronts as well.
In the ideal world the fronts ought to look like the rear and the rear ought to look like the fronts.

Where are you riding to get a result like that????????
Only on the track I sincerely hope:(
At least that way you have less likelihood of hurting someone else.

It's not a product of bad habits.
You've got no idea what you're doing at all.
Or what you're dealing with for that matter.
IMO.

I still stand by my previous comments on this matter to date.

The rear is a dual piston calliper, and by design this shouldn't be occurring(AT ALL) only on one side.
Unless there's a stuck piston in the calliper. Which is highly unlikely.
But still possible though. As anything's possible.

Ok show us a pic of the other side of the disc for verification.
 
Last edited:
Brad, your comments though not altogether un-incisive are not particularly helpful towards the OP. Have you considered the possibility that there may be other owners on here, who are not necessarily as mechanically aware as you purport to be, and in need of some genuine advice, as opposed to being berated by you for their concerns?

To the OP. From the photos I would have said that the rear right hand pad looks as if there is no friction material left on it AT ALL! Did you not notice the extra travel in the brake pedal Konrad? Looks as if you have worn these pads out down to the metal of the backing material. As Brad rightly points out, I doubt you will successfully be able to claim this under warranty. You have also pitted and scored the disc itself to such an extent that I fear you are probably going to need to replace that as well. Can I ask are these the OEM pads or are they sintered? Sintered pads give great progressive stopping power but are very harsh on discs and cause them to score easily (ie Carbon Lorraine and others). Assuming you have not worn the disc below its minimum thickness, which is stamped on the carrier, you might get away with having it re-faced, but it does look somewhat terminal from your photos.
 
One other thing. I could not help but notice the corrosion on your rear chain. Is this bike ridden all year round, in salt, snow? How often do you check your bike? Before each ride, once a week, periodically, seldom? This sort of wear should have been apparent long before the pads and disc became this worn. I'm inclined to think that this is not an overnight issue but one that has developed over time and you perhaps need to consider checking or maintaining your bike more frequently than you perhaps currently do. You will save yourself from an expensive problem, if you check your bike regularly. I dont wish to sound as if I am teaching you to suck eggs, but as I said, this sort of wear does not occur over a few days but over several weeks maybe even months.
 
topolino said:
Brad, your comments though not altogether un-incisive are not particularly helpful towards the OP. Have you considered the possibility that there may be other owners on here, who are not necessarily as mechanically aware as you purport to be, and in need of some genuine advice, as opposed to being berated by you for their concerns?

To the OP. From the photos I would have said that the rear right hand pad looks as if there is no friction material left on it AT ALL! Did you not notice the extra travel in the brake pedal Konrad? Looks as if you have worn these pads out down to the metal of the backing material. As Brad rightly points out, I doubt you will successfully be able to claim this under warranty. You have also pitted and scored the disc itself to such an extent that I fear you are probably going to need to replace that as well. Can I ask are these the OEM pads or are they sintered? Sintered pads give great progressive stopping power but are very harsh on discs and cause them to score easily (ie Carbon Lorraine and others). Assuming you have not worn the disc below its minimum thickness, which is stamped on the carrier, you might get away with having it re-faced, but it does look somewhat terminal from your photos.
Click to expand...

Point taken Topolino.
You will note that I have given him the small benefit of the doubt by asking for a pic of the other side of the rear rotor.
Also I have pointed him in the right direction by refering him to a book that is highly informative and relevant to his current stage in his life as a rider.

By providing a pic of the other side of the rear, at least this way we will be able to get to the bottom of it by looking at the evidence at hand.

If he goes to the dealer.
He will certainly get a nicer reception at the service counter.
I can assure you out the back in the workshop they will be saying more than I have to date. By a long way.
He will subsequently get the sensored version out at the front counter.

At this point I will also add that there is no evidence to suggest that this matter needs the deft touch of someone who is prepared to kick poor fellow up the ass whilst simultaneously patting him on the head.

The pics available to us clearly show that he's riding his machine at the upper limits and needs to slow down.
He tells us he's easy on the gear at the rear. That is absolutely not the case I'm afraid. Even if he actually does have a stuck piston in the rear, the evidence is that he's riding this thing at more than reasonable limits.
Limits that should only be reached on a track.

If he's riding like this on the street then the authorities ought to be notified.
Also IMO, if he's riding like this on a track then so be it.
But he is riding in such a manner that he should know better by now through personal experience than to ask this type of question (given the evidence) on an internet forum (unless he's trolling).
Simply because he should have more riding experience to be riding like that.

The pics of the front of the bike clearly show the front rotors as well.
 
Curious did you change your rear set? If so sometimes you may need to adjust the length of the piston throw. I had to adjust mine with the Rizoma Rear Sets. Or you might check the adjustment on the OEM rear sets.
 
topolino said:
One other thing. I could not help but notice the corrosion on your rear chain. Is this bike ridden all year round, in salt, snow? How often do you check your bike? Before each ride, once a week, periodically, seldom? This sort of wear should have been apparent long before the pads and disc became this worn. I'm inclined to think that this is not an overnight issue but one that has developed over time and you perhaps need to consider checking or maintaining your bike more frequently than you perhaps currently do. You will save yourself from an expensive problem, if you check your bike regularly. I dont wish to sound as if I am teaching you to suck eggs, but as I said, this sort of wear does not occur over a few days but over several weeks maybe even months.
Click to expand...

As I said before.
This guy is clueless and inexperienced at least.
Let alone to be riding the thing like he has. (note the condition of the front discs)
 
just went out for a closer look and i didnt like what i saw.. thank you for the replies and i'm answering all your questions below:


TOPOLINO:
1.Wow.. no friction material left on the right side as you said and no i did not feel the extra travel and i'll tell you why.. when i'm turning the rear wheel in neutral i feel and hear the brakes dragging/grinding.. there's a few mm of material left on the left side.. everything is OEM
2. The chain corrosion is from storing the bike in not the greatest of places. Since I moved i'm forced to keep the bike outdoors.. i have it in a self made tent but it's still outdoors :( the bike has 3500 miles on it so i havent been concerned about brakes yet since i dont do anything crazy on it.

FIREMAN:
i guess this may be a stuck piston

BRAD:
relax :) i'm no superbike expert nor have i done any track days yet but i'm very gentle on the bike and i have the uncommon gift of common sense.. i'm not a squid and enjoy my rides and i do know that most of the breaking is done with the front

QUESTION:
having the bike outdoors (in a tent but i know humidity and freezing temps still gets to it) could this be the most likely cause if it being a stuck piston?
 
Brad said:
Point taken Topolino.
You will note that I have given him the small benefit of the doubt by asking for a pic of the other side of the rear rotor.
Also I have pointed him in the right direction by refering him to a book that is highly informative and relevant to his current stage in his life as a rider.

By providing a pic of the other side of the rear, at least this way we will be able to get to the bottom of it by looking at the evidence at hand.

If he goes to the dealer.
He will certainly get a nicer reception at the service counter.
I can assure you out the back in the workshop they will be saying more than I have to date. By a long way.
He will subsequently get the sensored version out at the front counter.

At this point I will also add that there is no evidence to suggest that this matter needs the deft touch of someone who is prepared to kick poor fellow up the ass whilst simultaneously patting him on the head.

The pics available to us clearly show that he's riding his machine at the upper limits and needs to slow down.
He tells us he's easy on the gear at the rear. That is absolutely not the case I'm afraid. Even if he actually does have a stuck piston in the rear, the evidence is that he's riding this thing at more than reasonable limits.
Limits that should only be reached on a track.

If he's riding like this on the street then the authorities ought to be notified.
Also IMO, if he's riding like this on a track then so be it.
But he is riding in such a manner that he should know better by now through personal experience than to ask this type of question (given the evidence) on an internet forum (unless he's trolling).
Simply because he should have more riding experience to be riding like that.

The pics of the front of the bike clearly show the front rotors as well.
Click to expand...

Or perhaps he is riding within his limits and/or in a mature manner, and simply
isn't mechanically inclined to check the things you, I and others take for granted as being basic husbandry. I'm not going to make the assumption he is mechanically unsympathetic or reckless, on the basis of the limited information I know about him. That said, if he ignores to take any advice given, ill placed or otherwise and to check these basic and critical areas of his bike, then this sort of wear and potentially serious issues, are an inevitability and will only end in tears or worse still.

the OP: I would only offer this advice. Don't ride this bike any more than is necessary, until you have occasion to change or replace your disc/pads. You risk the disc expanding/warping through excessive heat/friction and locking the rear. If you appreciate the consequences that might lead to, you will be doing yourself a favour.

I have witnessed one particularly nasty accident two years ago, involving a 1098S and a rear caliper that seized on, causing the hydraulic fluid to boil, cavitate, then followed by total rear brake failure and a heat induced lock up. Even the rear brake line melted and the plastic sheathing was dripping onto his rear wheel. The rider's injuries were extensive and included two broken vertebrae, a punctured lung, and broken wrist and left radius. The cause was in his defence, not of his doing but that of the dealer, who incorrectly installed and mal-adjusted a replacement rear master cylinder under warranty. However, he stated that he had noticed some dragging from the rear and a wooden feel to the brakes, for some time, but elected to ignore it. Bad choice.
 
konrads said:
just went out for a closer look and i didnt like what i saw.. thank you for the replies and i'm answering all your questions below:


when i'm turning the rear wheel in neutral i feel and hear the brakes dragging/grinding.. there's a few mm of material left on the left side.. everything is OEM
Click to expand...

Please do yourself a favour and don't ride this bike until you get it fixed. I hate to say it but if the problem has developed to this level and it has escaped your notice thus far, you REALLY need to get into the habit of checking things more often or if you are not mechanically competent (I make no assumptions here, just an observation, right or wrong), then have someone regularly check it for you, who is.

As you will have read from my last post, it obviously pays to be more pro-active about mechanical abnormalities with a machine you entrust your life with, as opposed to letting things fester. Enough said.
 
topolino said:
Please do yourself a favour and don't ride this bike until you get it fixed. I hate to say it but if the problem has developed to this level and it has escaped your notice thus far, you REALLY need to get into the habit of checking things more often or if you are not mechanically competent (I make no assumptions here, just an observation, right or wrong), then have someone regularly check it for you, who is.

As you will have read from my last post, it obviously pays to be more pro-active about mechanical abnormalities with a machine you entrust your life with, as opposed to letting things fester. Enough said.
Click to expand...

thanks Top

I'm a computer guy not a mechanic but i learn from mistakes.. and this is something i'll pay closer attention to. been riding for about 4 years so i can say i do lack certain skills
 

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