Rear sprocket Carrier Bolts

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:confused:
Hey guys,
I bought some CNC racing bolts to replace the oem ones on the Rear sprocket Carrier.. But I'm unable to remove the original bolts; they unscrew for a while then seam to be spinnning freely like I need to hold something in the back (but I can't reach there)

Any hints from someone that did this mod or has some experience removing those bolts?

Thanks !! :)
 
You need to remove the cush drive, on the back side of each individual bolt you will find a Allen socket to use to hold it while you remove the nut..
good luck
 
You need to remove the cush drive, on the back side of each individual bolt you will find a Allen socket to use to hold it while you remove the nut..
good luck


Hi.

I have the same problem.

Can you advise what is size of allen key needed? I can not define it.
 
if you have a long allen key, rotate the rear wheel until you expose the back of a cush drive. you can lock the cush drive from the right side that way.
 
Hi.

I have the same problem.

Can you advise what is size of allen key needed? I can not define it.

It is metric. Try what looks right and if that does not work go up either one size or down one size. Not rocket science.
 
It is metric. Try what looks right and if that does not work go up either one size or down one size. Not rocket science.

I have 10mm allen wrench. It's a little small. Now I am going to find 12 and 14 mm allen wrenches. I hope it will be not 13 or 15 mm :)

if you have a long allen key, rotate the rear wheel until you expose the back of a cush drive. you can lock the cush drive from the right side that way.

I tried to do that. So hard. I can damage surface of some parts incl. wheel :(
 
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Anyone more knows exactly wrench size of cush drive? :rolleyes:
 

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Hi.

I have the same problem.

Can you advise what is size of allen key needed? I can not define it.

No offense, If you're having difficulty sizing up an allen key, my suggestion is you leave all mechanical work to the pros. Especially something so crucial like your drive train.......and don't even think of working on your brakes!
 
Anyone more knows exactly wrench size of cush drive? :rolleyes:

5mm. If it won't go in, GENTLY tap the wrench until it does, or use a 4.5mm (but it'll be loose).

Use the type of wrench pictured, and you won't scratch a thing.

And the torque to tighten those nuts is 44nm, and you must use Loctite 243.
 

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Internet mechanics can be quite entertaining . 12 mm has always worked for me on the Cush drives.
 
5mm. If it won't go in, GENTLY tap the wrench until it does, or use a 4.5mm (but it'll be loose).

Use the type of wrench pictured, and you won't scratch a thing.

And the torque to tighten those nuts is 44nm, and you must use Loctite 243.


Sorry mate you must be on drugs.
 
I have 10mm allen wrench. It's a little small. Now I am going to find 12 and 14 mm allen wrenches. I hope it will be not 13 or 15 mm :)



I tried to do that. So hard. I can damage surface of some parts incl. wheel :(

I could not stand to see another one of these posts. So I went out found the old cush drives out of my 2012 1199S.

Wilkson is 100% correct. It is 12mm. Well an Australian 12mm anyway. In American 12mm equals 5mm or it can also equal 4.5mm.

I love this forum.

PS to not damage any paint, put a rag around the tool or some soft tape, line up the gap and presto. As i said earlier its not rocket science and I am no motorcycle mechanic.
 
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OP talks of changing bolts. Are the newer cush drives a little different to previous Ducatis?
From what I recall the "bolt" is bonded to the rubber on the older types. When the bond fails the cush rubber and surrounding sleeve slide out and eat the hub and swinger.

Parts fiche only shows nut and then cush with bolt as one part.
 
5mm. If it won't go in, GENTLY tap the wrench until it does, or use a 4.5mm (but it'll be loose).

Use the type of wrench pictured, and you won't scratch a thing.

And the torque to tighten those nuts is 44nm, and you must use Loctite 243.

Kismetcaptain, have a look at your own photos. The last one shows the allen key not even close. You can see with the naked eye it is not the right size.

Or is this meant to be a joke.
 
Kismetcaptain, have a look at your own photos. The last one shows the allen key not even close. You can see with the naked eye it is not the right size.

Or is this meant to be a joke.

if you look inside the cush drive, there's a hexagonal hole within the larger hole, which fits a 5mm wrench. It's enough to hold the cush drive in place when turning and torquing the nut to spec on the other side. I know this because obviously I've done it.

FYI in the last picture, the 5mm hexagonal hole is completely supporting the wrench (I'm not holding it in place) - the fit is that good.

So if the 5mm wrench can hold the cush drive in place as well as a 12mm, then what you have are options. And I had the long 5mm handy, but not a 12mm in the same style.
 
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if you look inside the cush drive, there's a hexagonal hole within the larger hole, which fits a 5mm wrench. It's enough to hold the cush drive in place when turning and torquing the nut to spec on the other side. I know this because obviously I've done it.

FYI in the last picture, the 5mm hexagonal hole is completely supporting the wrench (I'm not holding it in place) - the fit is that good.

So if the 5mm wrench can hold the cush drive in place as well as a 12mm, then what you have are options. And I had the long 5mm handy, but not a 12mm in the same style.

If you have a careful look inside you will see that the hexagonal shaped hole is folded pieces of metal almost like leaves. Its coincidence that your 5mm hex held it. It is not designed to do that. I put a 5 mm hex in a couple of mine and they are slightly all different sizes. I have all the old cush drives loose in a drawer so can get to them easily. They are not uniform in size as they are not manufactured to a strict tolerance. Put some real force on it and those little leaves of metal will bend. I think you just made a mistake and used the wrong tool as maybe it was dark and hard to see in there. I think bad form to advise people its okay to do that.

People should use the correct tool for the job. 12mm Hex.
 
Internet mechanics can be quite entertaining . 12 mm has always worked for me on the Cush drives.


5mm. If it won't go in, GENTLY tap the wrench until it does, or use a 4.5mm (but it'll be loose).


Use the type of wrench pictured, and you won't scratch a thing.

And the torque to tighten those nuts is 44nm, and you must use Loctite 243.

I could not stand to see another one of these posts. So I went out found the old cush drives out of my 2012 1199S.

Wilkson is 100% correct. It is 12mm. Well an Australian 12mm anyway. In American 12mm equals 5mm or it can also equal 4.5mm.

Hi guys, sorry for delay. Some comments from me.

I did well this work. Thank you all for the help.

The cush drive bolts have two socket: internal (5 mm) and external (12 mm). I could not use internal one since it was damaged. It looks like during last maintenance somebody did it. As result I used 12 mm wrench.

Some pictures with result are attached.
 

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Hi guys, sorry for delay. Some comments from me.

I did well this work. Thank you all for the help.

The cush drive bolts have two socket: internal (5 mm) and external (12 mm). I could not use internal one since it was damaged. It looks like during last maintenance somebody did it. As result I used 12 mm wrench.

Some pictures with result are attached.

Hi I am just about to replace my sprocket nuts too - as the ones on my Diavel are all not great. So may I ask a quick question - do I need to remove the sprocket in it's entirety or were you able to replace one bolt at a time in situ?
 
Nuts... bolts... I'm not sure how closely a Diavel sprocket may compare to one found on the 1199, but on an 1199 fit with OEM or aftermarket components, you can easily remove and replace the nuts. As for the "bolts," the bolts protrude from the cush drive pins and are part of the pin assembly. Do you plan to change the cush drive pins as well?
 

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