Rear sprocket swap

Getting ready to do a rear sprocket/hub swap on the 1199 and need some help before. Ive always went -1 +2 on past bikes because gearing was so tall and never had to change chains ( was always one of the first mods i did when buying my zx-10's) on this one however just going +2 in the rear i need to swap the chain. I do not have a chain tool. can i have my chain put together completely than put it on the bike or does it need to be on the front sprocket than connected together with the master link. Thanks guys.

Do not use a NON RIVETED master link on your replacement chain. You should grind down all the rivets on the 535 OEM Chain prior to using the chain tool.

520 Conversion Kit - Quick Change Sprocket Set with Your Choice of X'ring Chain - DUCATI 1199 Panigale

Please get a 520 replacement kit with new 39t rear and 15t front.

You can find this in the 520 conversion thread on this forum: http://ducati1299.com/mechanical-technical/19106-520-chain-conversion.html

Best mod you can do for around $320

I really didn't get that last post...how do you not use a master link? Why would you bother just to retain the stock gearing but with a 520?

You are going to have to buy a chain tool. You cannot install a completed chain. Maybe if you took off the rear swingarm...but not the right way to do the work at all.

I bought this one... Motion Pro PBR Chain Tool - RevZilla

During the course of your motorcycle ownership a chain tool is going to pay for itself many times over.

I bought a 520 kit from Sprocket Center with a 41T rear and 15T front. I went first with the aluminium sprocket, but later changed it for a steel one. The aluminium ones are lighter, but do wear significantly faster.

You can go the cheap route and just get a 14T front sprocket and retain the 39T rear, but you loose some of the benefit of having a quick change rear and in using lightweight components.

The chain tension eccentric tools are pretty cheap. Just a large spanner wrench for adjusting the eccentric rear hub.

the rear of these things are so much more complicated than normal jap bikes haha. i agree im not sure why anyone would swap to 520 and keep stock gearing. I'm 100% going with the +2 in the rear vs the -1 up front. Like i said ive never had to swap chains or replace them. Are chains easy to change links on and such? also is the chain tension eccentric tool necessary? is it basically what you use to adjust the rear vs just moving the rear wheel on a double sided swing arm setup? I'm fairly mechanically inclined but like to ask lots of questions before digging into anything i havent done yet so I have a good idea.

Chains are easy. Break, press and rivet. Its a good forearm workout.

You're going to need the proper tool to adjust the chain. On the Ducati single sided swing arm, the rear axle is offset in the hub. The tool turns the hole hub, which due to the offset of the axle, moves the wheel closer and further from the front sprocket, thereby changing the slack in the chain. Its just a fancy spanner wrench, and with how low cost it is its a no brainer. Just be careful not to over tighten the swingarm bolts that keep tension on it.

There are a couple of good videos on YouTube that show how to adjust a Ducati single sided setup, plus I think there are a few threads here about it.

This is what the tool looks like...this one looks exactly like mine, but I don't think I got it from there.

Ducati 1098 chain adjuster tool ducati tool

This is the socket I used for the sprocket retaining nut...also works for the wheel nut.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009R8TDFY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I HIGHLY suggest you rent/borrow/buy an electric impact wrench to take the sprocket nut off with. I made due with a Harbor Freight one, and it was well worth the money. Heat the nut a little bit with a heat gun, and the impact will twist it right off.

The power of the 1199 is definitely on the upper end of what you'd want to use a 520 chain for. So expect some stretch. Not the end of the world, but I wouldn't expect the same chain life you'd get on a Honda 300.

Supersprox. Lightweight aluminum center and the teeth are steel. Replacement guarantee for worn sprocket.

I don't understand the deal with 520.... I have never seen any tangible benefit. 525 oem is 100% fine.

If you should replace sprockets with the same size as oem it can be done without "breaking" the chain/rivet.

The 2014's had a larger sized chain? vs. the newer models at 525? IDK.

If you go +2 on your rear sprocket I understand that you will probably not have enough chain length to fit that size. I could be mistaken though.

I just did the mod last summer and the 52 plates or 104 links with the crappy ZRP OEM chain wouldn't accept +2 in the rear. I had to purchase additional links to go up to the larger size sprocket in the rear.

The reason for the 520 conversion is pretty simple: losing driveline weight. The friggen rear sprocket and chain and front sprocket weighs: 7.8 Lbs.

An aftermarket kit weighs probably half of that.

OP I didn't respond to your post to insult you or confuse you. I responded because I was trying to save you some difficulty. I mistakenly assumed you had a 535 OEM chain wanting to play with your gearing. I don't think that will work if you use +2 larger teeth on a rear OEM chain length set up. In order to maintain the 51+/-52 mm gap on the rear you might have to add some links.

If you were to order a chain kit with the correct number of links (+104) you won't have any issues.

My term of referencing a "master link" meant a type of link which is held together by a sliding plate. Not the act of riveting another plate on, which I would strongly advise you do. Sorry for my confusion of definitions. A riveted master link is the only way to go.

Since you MIGHT have to add links to maintain the correct chain slack requirements, I would kindly suggest you convert to the 520 Kit. Again, it will save you some parasitic drag and you will notice some improvement in thrust.

This site can help you understand the changes you are making to the final drive: Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator

Double Post

JHTmcrider said:

Do not use a master link on your replacement chain. You should grind down all the rivets on the 535 OEM Chain prior to using the chain tool.

Click to expand...

OEM chain was always 525.

^ Yup, figured as much!

1199 Panigale 2012-2014 - Ducati - STREET Products

They are saying that there are 106 links. Still pretty tight for a 41t regardless of pitch.

As many others have pointed out just going up one tooth in the rear will require a longer chain: http://ducati1299.com/mechanical-technical/3370-big-picture-sprocket-changes.html

But as Gunny pointed out going down 1 tooth in the front is like going 3 up in the rear.

Other areas of discussion: http://ducati1299.com/ducati-1199/3739-41t-sprocket-estimate.html

http://ducati1299.com/ducati-1199/3572-i-will-have-sprocket-chain-upgrade-done-week.html

Happy modding!

How long should you expect to get out of the factory chain/sprockets?

Halo2 said:

How long should you expect to get out of the factory chain/sprockets?

Click to expand...

I had mine done at the 24K service, no track work on it, just street. Changed to the 41 tooth rear sprocket courtesy of a forum member here and am enjoying that mod.

JHTmcrider said:

Do not use a NON RIVETED master link on your replacement chain.

Click to expand...

THIS! My friend had a non riveted chain on his 1098, which he took drag racing. Chain broke in his 3rd run and busted his clutch, clutch cover and a host of other things... that's $1,500/- he's never seeing again. It's just not worth the risk.