Rear Suspension too stiff

Hello guys,

This is my first post (of many I hope).

I ride a Ducati 1199 and a Honda CBR1000RR.

I find the Ducati far too stiff in the rear end, not all like the Fireblade. Has anyone else similar sentiments?

I tried approaching Ducati Australia (I live in New Zealand), describing the above , and the official answer was that the Ducati 1199 Panigale is basically a race bike only , however I do most of my riding on the road and open highway.

I'm pissed off as I could have bought 2 Fireblades for the money, and to me the Honda is a superior bike.

Im keen to know your thoughts and any ideas on the suspension query.

Cheers ,

Neil (from NZ)

Base or S model Neil?

Also, how much do you weigh with gear?

Everything is adjustable, so I'm sure you can improve the situation.

Re Ducati Auz, not the most helpful response, but then thats what the dealer network is for.

Btw, did you tell them you thought the Blade was a superior bike

yes I found the same thing pretty much, my R1 feels plush in comparison and it's got a Penske shock in the rear....it makes a bit of sense at a fast pace but too much if you're under 80kg for the road....usual story, get the spring to match your weight and get the valving setup for you're use. I've done that and it's improved heaps. Oh, if your bored change it to the P linkage, it helps a little first up.

Ducati 1199 Panigale Tricolore

I weigh 85 kg with gear

I have tried electronic adjustments but find it still too stiff, so much so it hurts my back. I do love the bike, and if I can set the suspension set up properly I am sure it will perform on par with the Fireblade.

Thank you for response and help

The standard spring on the 1199 is a 90NM, you can see some recommendations for springs rate given by Ducati Omaha on their web shop:

Ohlins Shock Spring - Panigale 1199/899 | OHLINS-SS

Text from the site:
Our Ohlins Shock Spring Guide for Ducati 1199 Panigale - Street/Track Day Use (for Racing use, contact us for alternate recommendations):
Rider Weight (In Gear) - Spring Rate
150 Lbs. - 75Nm
170 Lbs. - 80Nm
190 Lbs. - 85Nm
210 Lbs. - 90Nm
230 Lbs. - 95Nm
250 Lbs. - 100Nm

Please note these recommendations are for the suspension in the FLAT RATE setting on the 1199, or on an 899 with the adjustable linkage kit installed. For an 899 without the adjustable linkage OR an 1199 with the suspension set in the PROGRESSIVE setting, chose one spring rate softer than normal recommendation.

If your weight is between the ranges, you can choose either srping rate, choose the softer rate for less aggressive riding or the stiffer rate for more aggressive riding. If you're just not sure, contact us for a recommendation.

Please note the spring diameter is different between the different shock versions on the various Panigale models, so make sure you select the appropriate option below: 899 with Sachs shock and 1199 standard model with Showa shock take one size spring, 1199S/R with Ohlins TTX shock take a different size.

Kiwineil said:

Hello guys,

This is my first post (of many I hope).

I ride a Ducati 1199 and a Honda CBR1000RR.

I find the Ducati far too stiff in the rear end, not all like the Fireblade. Has anyone else similar sentiments?

I tried approaching Ducati Australia (I live in New Zealand), describing the above , and the official answer was that the Ducati 1199 Panigale is basically a race bike only , however I do most of my riding on the road and open highway.

I'm pissed off as I could have bought 2 Fireblades for the money, and to me the Honda is a superior bike.

Im keen to know your thoughts and any ideas on the suspension query.

Cheers ,

Neil (from NZ)

Click to expand...

The Ducati is not for everyone . Maybe sell it and get another Blade .

I have to ask, "what did you expect?" You bought a race bike. Kind of like a guy with a Ferrari declaring an Accord is a superior vehicle because it has a plusher ride....if comfort is what you want you kind of picked a strange bike to buy!

But to help ya out here...your rear shock is adjustable. Soften it up.

If the softest rear settings still aren't flaccid enough, find a suspension tuner in NZ (there are quite a few) and ask for a revalve and a soft spring. Just don't expect it to perform as it was intended to.

BTW--there are some guys who put a lot of miles on their 1199s and find the ride--even in race mode--quite comfortable. Some of them even have spines so ...... up it scares their doctors.

It can be softened up.

Common complaint from a lot of newcomers to Ducati. They're used to Japanese bikes that are set up with way-too-soft suspesions. People get used to it and then have trouble with a Duc with the proper spring rate.

Some options - take out some preload, set up your compression/rebound manually (I'm not a fan of the electronic dial-a-setting on the "S"). If your too nervous about experimenting with settings yourself, take it to someone who specializes in suspension setups and they can put it where it should be - which may be stiffer than what you're used to.

Neil it is a simple solution:

The basic spring rate chart (post #5 by mordor) is the start - if your spring rate is ok for you (already installed on your bike) it is nothing more than lightening up the preload (unwinding it, so the lock collar and adjuster ring move towards the top of the shock, turning counter clockwise ) - the official way to do this is by setting a sag distance....YouTube "sag settings David moss", he explains it easily enough - after you do that for front and rear, (it sounds like you want the softer side of things, so that would mean you would want the longer sag setting as in , if the range you work with is 25mm to 40mm <a typical rear shock sag parameter, but double check that>, you would want to be closer to 40mm) - after this, you generally do not need to touch preload again, unless compression and rebound damping settings cannot help get things right

Then after doing that (sag) for front and rear, the damping settings are next - even easier, & and simple enough...look in to your settings on the instrument display - read the manual for an idea for a starting point....generally speaking, starting in the middle of the range is a single easy way to go about it -- write down what you do, and go ride the bike on your favorite familiar roads to get some feedback from the bike, and see if anything stands out as significant (overly soft, too stiff, wobbly, etc) it's common sense from there but reading what compression and rebound actually do will help you the most - 1 point to remember about comp/reb adjusters is this: the closer you get to the end of the scale of either side of adjustments the greater the difference 1 click/setting will make - if you're not sensitive to anything overly significant on your ride, settle in there for a few more rides and see what you're feeling overall...if nothing feels weird you are probably good to go

The easiest way to handle doing this is at a shop that knows their way around suspensions (not all do) or a stop at a track during a track day that has an Ohlins guy there - usually $50 will get the sag measured and set, and at least you know that is done correctly, as it is a 2 person job

The suspensions we get with Ducati, Ohlins, are vastly superior to the stock suspensions we get on Japanese bikes....but a correctly setup basic Japanese suspension will clearly be leaps and bounds ahead of an improperly set Ohlins

Suspension conversation can go long and deep....but getting started is the hardest part, get to it and report back

RD16RR said:

a correctly setup basic Japanese suspension will clearly be leaps and bounds ahead of an improperly set Ohlins

Click to expand...

Bingo! To the OP, the stock 1199 spring is too stiff for your weight; you need an 80 or 85. Start there, and as noted in other helpful posts, get your sag set properly, then experiment to find the damping settings that work for you. You have all the parts you need (save the spring, which is cheap) but you need to dial it in for you. Note that the Blade (I've also owned one, and yes it was much closer to correct suspension setup for me off the floor than the Pani), also has a progressive link on it, so you might want to try going to P on your 1199. F is better for maintaining chassis stability at track pace, but it does cost some ride comfort out in the real world.

Did anyone ask if bike is in F or p??

At least with the s, I found it really easy to just back the rear off for city riding because SF has such .... road surfaces. Took the compression & rebound all the way off...

What part of the country you living in? If you are up north then get hold of Liam at Fastbikegear.co.nz, he has set up a few Panigale now with really good results, also owns an 899.

Get your sag done (easy to do with a mate and plenty of info on Google on how, on Liam's site also) then you will see if the spring is too hard or not, Liam can supply the correct spring.

I'm in Christchurch and the roads are so bad after the earthquakes that no matter what setting I have the suspension at, its still really firm, but I love a firm bike. Play with the settings you will find a setting you like, if you want a Harley type armchair ride then maybe sell it and get a less race bred bike, but we all know it's (the Panigale) just way to awesome to do that LOL.

Stw said:

Did anyone ask if bike is in F or p??

Click to expand...

I think given the information so far, it's safe to assume it's set up exactly the same as when it was unpacked

Brad said:

I think given the information so far, it's safe to assume it's set up exactly the same as when it was unpacked

Click to expand...

Assuming can get you in trouble...and if its in F then a switch to P might be a valid move..No??

Stw said:

Assuming can get you in trouble...and if its in F then a switch to P might be a valid move..No??

Click to expand...

Not really....P would be more important carrying a passenger...

Kiwineil said:

Ducati 1199 Panigale Tricolore

I weigh 85 kg with gear

I have tried electronic adjustments but find it still too stiff, so much so it hurts my back. I do love the bike, and if I can set the suspension set up properly I am sure it will perform on par with the Fireblade.

Thank you for response and help

Click to expand...

Thank you for expanding on your situation
That is vital information.

Performance can be measured across a number of parameters.
When you refer to the Honda as a point of reference for performance, you are comparing apples with oranges.

The very first thing you must address is sag.
That is "the" golden rule.

Remember the bike is set up for the eventuality of 2 up riding.
The kit that comes with the bike has the pillion pegs in it. They're just not normally fitted.
The spring that's in the back end is intended for this eventuality and to prevent the suspension from potentially bottoming out. Which is dangerous.

The electronic adjustments you refer to are for compression and rebound, and are for fine tuning the suspension only after the sag has been set "correctly"
It's highly unlikely you will need to change anything internal with the suspension valving for compression and rebound as there's more than enough adjustment when the sag is set correctly.
Playing with these settings is just fiddling around the edges and not getting you anywhere.

Note that the front forks could probably need to have the preload backed off a little more a well.
Further to this.
The front forks need to be serviced at about 36,000 kms.
At that service you will be well served to only put in the correct OHLINS fork oil, and not some "substitute".
The operational characteristics of the OHLINS fork oil are totally unique,
and the valving has been designed and spec'd by OHLINS around their own oil.
I advise you, do not compromise in this regard.

For your nominated weight you will need a lighter spring in the rear end.
Mordor, RD16RR and others have given you a whole lot of very good advise.

After you have set the suspension up correctly for your weight, feel free to get back to us with regard to how it's going for you.
After you have made the transition to a bike that's in another class to the Honda. Not that there's anything wrong with Honda's at all
They're just very different animals.

If you still don't like the Duc in the long term.
Chalk it up to experience, and act accordingly.
Perhaps a BMW will be a better fit for your riding style

Enjoy the learning curve and welcome to the forum

RD16RR said:

Not really....P would be more important carrying a passenger...

Click to expand...

P is certainly a better option for the street wether carrying a passenger or not .

Stw said:

Assuming can get you in trouble...and if its in F then a switch to P might be a valid move..No??

Click to expand...

Yes, you're quite right

wilkson said:

P is certainly a better option for the street wether carrying a passenger or not .

Click to expand...

I agree completely.

Everybody has to remember, this is the first DUCATI superbike that has the capability built into the linkage to change from one type of suspension action to another for track work without changing to a different type of linkage altogether out of the DP parts catalogue.
Previous models linkages were progressive in nature.

I believe DUCATI intended for it to be set to "F" for track riding, and "P" for street riding.
Of course we now have the luxury to easily set it anyway we like according to our own tastes.