removed rear cylinder shields and double-wrapped pipe

so I spent a few relaxing hours last night getting to the rear header pipe. It goes pretty quickly now:

- tank off in 5min. very easy routine.
- disconnect heatshield from subframe. Those screws underneath are a PITA.
- remove lower two subframe bolts, loosen top two bolts, rotate tail upwards, then cinch down the top two bolts to hold it in place.

then the covers. Right side came off fine. Left side was tedious. That 8mm bolt at the bottom, behind the rear shock spring....yeah, not fun slowly undoing that one. It's also loctited btw so getting it going takes some effort, and you have to use a very small 8mm box wrench because that's the only thing that'll fit back there. I almost threw it when I got it out. Good thing I didn't - it has to go back in; it holds the secondary injection plate in.

I then added a second wrap layer to the pipe, but didn't go all the way back to the start of the header. Made a clever hole to access the wideband bung that was welded in to make tuning easy.

The smoke coming off the rear header is always fun with new wrap. It's billowing off so thickly, it looks like you're on fire. Everyone at the stoplight is deeply concerned except you....

something plastic melted though, which just smelled amazing. apparently it was part of the sheath covering the O2 sensor wires? This happened right at the juncture between single and double wrap, so I finished the double wrap all the way to the header.

I can grip the subframe better without those shields in the way. It's far from hot; if anything, my thighs were significantly cooler on this 90 degree day. I felt more heat coming up from the seat though; not sure if that means heat that was destined to soak the subframe is now just cooking the seat?

Anyways, I took it all apart again and my only decent guess for the melted black plastic is the O2 sensor sheath. Although, that doesn't make much sense, unless this second wrap layer is significantly raising temperatures under the heat shield, or if temperatures rose significantly at the part I left single-wrapped.

Anyways, this is all just a game of musical chairs with the heat

And it's nice to finally see part of the motor, although in a sense it conflicts with the aesthetic of everything covered.

oh, is there a different part, from the 1199, that I can substitute for these screws that stick out a country mile from the right side of the cylinder head?

What does that plate cover, anyways?

you can get the "right" screws to replace those used for holding the covers from your dealer, just have a look into the part list for 1199 MY 2012 to get the part numbers:

Ducati Maintenance

If you want to make it perfectly looking, you also need to replace three valve cover screws (the ones with the pins), the black screw on the left fixing the secondary air system entry and one screw holding the plastic cover over the brake hoses at the bottom of the cylinder head.

The plate on the right is holding the shaft for the timing chain upper gear.

To be honest, I miss those views quite a bit....

kismetcapitan said:

oh, is there a different part, from the 1199, that I can substitute for these screws that stick out a country mile from the right side of the cylinder head?

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Had the covers taken off by the dealer at delivery. As a former 2012 owner I can't stand those ugly plastics. 2012 screws on order at the dealer, 3$ each.

kismetcapitan said:

oh, is there a different part, from the 1199, that I can substitute for these screws that stick out a country mile from the right side of the cylinder head?

What does that plate cover, anyways?

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Camshaft cover. I didn't order bolts from the dealer when I removed my heat shield, I just went to the hardware store.

I extended the second wrap layer to the start of the rear exhaust header. Nothing's melting anymore.

In general, heat is down. There is barely any heat on my legs now - a dramatic change from when the bike was stock. The seat is warmer than before; but unclamping my knees from the subframe for 5-10 seconds allows air to completely cool it off. The cylinder, no surprise, is hot, but now the subframe barely gets warm.

I might try adding a layer of Pyrogel 3350 insulation to the bottom of the seat. Or I might just call it good at this point.

I have plans on wrapping the exhaust right out the cylinder as well and the area running down the inner right leg. Hopefully by applying this heat wrap sporadically where it gets close to me will prevent it from getting too hot compared to wrapping the entire piping.

I have some heat reflective tape that I have been applying behind the shock, under the subframe etc. that seems to be helping a bit with the radiant heat from the pipes.

The slit where the generator peeks out of the lower left fairing seems to get hot also, so added some tape on that as well.

Took mine off last week and I don't care about the heat under me, but my hopes were to get the engine temps down. And it actually did by a couple of degrees C. Cools down a bit faster as well. Makes sense as with the shields the rear cyclinder just had heat trapped around it.

Ps... Do you guys not ride in full leathers that the heat bothers you guys that much?

Whoopazz said:

Ps... Do you guys not ride in full leathers that the heat bothers you guys that much?

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on a 95 degree day if your on a long ride full leathers and you still cook in the canyons.

So yes. the wrap helped mine dramatically.

Poser. That rear brake fluid isn't even black yet.

bp7178 said:

Poser. That rear brake fluid isn't even black yet.

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lol, that fluid was as black as coffee within 100 miles of taking delivery. that clear amber fluid - Motul 660, flushed last week. I usually spring for Castrol SRF, but I'm not at the track that often, I don't race, and the stuff goes bad after a year. So let's see how this Motul stuff turns out...

Mine didnt come with them, didnt go in for application, and will never ..... about heat on this bike because IMHO all previous model Dukes with under tail exhaust were 10 times worse when it came to heat related issues!

If I was forced to use them with pliers on my nutsack, I'd have Guido from Shift-Tech apply the Carbon Fiber ones and be done with it all. His CF blows away anyone else, most especially DP (which IMHO "AGAIN" sorry) is a total joke! Case closed.

I chose not to have the covers put on as mine didn't come with them. I didn't like the aesthetics and after taking a test ride with an 1199 that had them I wasn't sold that it was the cure anyway.

I would replace the bolts with this.

Wth??

This Case has been Closed

Gunny, I'm pretty sure he was busting balls. Being sarcastic lol at least that's what I got from it.

What are those red covers called again?

Looks good.


3B

flobrandx said:

I chose not to have the covers put on as mine didn't come with them. I didn't like the aesthetics and after taking a test ride with an 1199 that had them I wasn't sold that it was the cure anyway.

I would replace the bolts with this.
View attachment 15055

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Whoopazz said:

Gunny, I'm pretty sure he was busting balls. Being sarcastic lol at least that's what I got from it.

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Spot on . I sent Gunny a apology

well, I think I finally figured out what was melting, after doing a second wrap layer. It's the O2 sensor innards. The wires are fine, the wire cover is fine, but black plastic is bubbling up out of the sensor itself.

This may makes sense, because in the entire header, there's only one uninsulated part - the O2 sensor. So maybe more heat than usual is trying to escape out of this single point?

Anyways, I have 12mm bung plugs on order that FINALLY shipped today, and I'll cut the end off this toasted sensor and use it as a dummy plug on the harness.

kismetcapitan said:

lol, that fluid was as black as coffee within 100 miles of taking delivery. that clear amber fluid - Motul 660, flushed last week. I usually spring for Castrol SRF, but I'm not at the track that often, I don't race, and the stuff goes bad after a year. So let's see how this Motul stuff turns out...

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I did the same thing with my 1199. So far just one ride with the 660. Hopefully it won't black like the stock crap.