'Round the World with an Italian Supermodel

Great stuff so far…...

Back to Rome and death.



Or maybe just Rome first. From the Coliseum it's a short--almost nonexistent--distance to the Forum.





Then onto more stupendousness:



My mind wandered to earlier in the morning.











I was thrilled to see that no one was on the backside of the Spanish steps. I hoped, for a second, that perhaps the other side would be just as desolate. Proof that hope is as worthless as the air it's printed on.



Maybe it's the stress of travel. Or maybe it's the retardedness of the world. I'm not complaining that not a single person was on the backside. I enjoyed my isolated-from-tourists-walk. But then I crested.

This is the least nauseating picture I could post of the Spanish Steps. With a little fuzziness it's almost cute. Couple looking over junk, but still they try to be as much in love as they think they should be.



I avoided this area before, but thought, 'ok, what the hell...have to experience before you judge. Awful.



Now I can judge. This is about the only guy who got it right.

After hours of riding freely through nature and seeing both the best of what man and the green countrysides have to offer, cathedrals seem so ostentatiously oppressive, as if walking out from under the bright blue (or grey or white) sky into a church was like stepping into the architecture of plague. Yes, there is an awe when walking into a cathedral, but it's at the expense of powerlessness, weakness and suffering. Could just be me, but freedom and self-assurance suffer anytime I step into hallowed halls, whether in Florence, Rome, Milan, Orvieto or Siena.

This was the main reason I came to the steps, the final dwelling of John Keats.



Contrary to how it's commonly used today, the word Romantic, especially when applied to literature or art, has nothing to do with swooning or hugging and kissing. At the core is the the desire to experience and to explore. (Which is why we are all here on ADV, no?) Tennyson best captures the essence of the romantic in Ulysses: "To strive, to seek, to find, and not to yield."

In part, the Romantic movement was a rebellion against the age of reason and in part it was a rejection against the church. Both science and religion provide certainty, or at least the illusion of clarity. In doing so, we are robbed of experience. Science tells us how the world works, religion what it should mean. Both de-emphasized individual experience and neither celebrated or encouraged the emotions that provide depth to experience.

The awesome and the mysterious and the unknown are all around us. John Keats, coined the term “Negative Capability” to describe this type of perspective and it's what motivates a lot of the inmates here on ADV. Depth of experience, getting more from life, sucking the marrow. And perhaps, as a group, we are not quite as comfortable to have an unchanging view of life (Keats refers to this as “egotistic sublime”) as your average person. Keats crystallizes this notion with the term, 'negative capability'--or, the willingness and the capacity to embrace the uncertain and the mysterious. A formula, if you will, of transcending the circumstances that form the settings of our lives. Perhaps that's what makes travelers different than tourists. The former yearn for new experiences, the latter simply want to repeat past experiences in different locations.

As a tragic aside, considered among the greatest poets in English literature, Keats was 25 when he succumbed to tuberculosis in 1821. He'd moved to Rome with his friend Severn, who noted that Keats would sometimes weep upon waking to find himself still alive.

He was buried in the Protestant Cemetery in Rome. His last request was to be placed under a tombstone bearing no name or date, only the words, "Here lies One whose Name was writ in Water."

Unfortunately the cemetery had shut down for the month when I visited.





So we'll just have to make do with a picture from my previous visit.



I had no idea at the time, but my visit to John Keats' grave fell on the same day the actor who played John Keating (in reference to Keats) in Dead Poets Society, ended his own life. Robin Williams, RIP.

They're not that different from you, are they? Same haircuts. Full of hormones, just like you. Invincible, just like you feel. The world is their oyster. They believe they're destined for great things, just like many of you, their eyes are full of hope, just like you. Did they wait until it was too late to make from their lives even one iota of what they were capable? Because, you see gentlemen, these boys are now fertilizing daffodils. But if you listen real close, you can hear them whisper their legacy to you. Go on, lean in. Listen, you hear it? - - Carpe - - hear it? - - Carpe, carpe diem, seize the day boys, make your lives extraordinary.

(From Dead Poet's Society.)

Wonderful poet, like so many writers tragically taken from the world in youth. Strange I had quoted some Keats this morning to one of my patients. He replied 'that sounds beautiful' I have never heard him speak clearly before it was lovely to hear him speak. Then you post this about Keats!

Great stuff Dennis, keep it coming. I was just at some of the same spots as you, perhaps at the same time. It's always an interesting dichotomy being in Italy during the height of summer tourism, which is why I normally avoid it - but, then again, how fortunate we are to have the opportunity to be annoyed by these bus-touring miscreants. You've put it into perspective beautifully.

All the best and stay safe.

Long day, longer days ahead. Pics and stories are backing up....all I can say at this point is onto Orvietz, Siena and Florence.

How many miles now Dennis???

AntiHero said:

Long day, longer days ahead. Pics and stories are backing up....all I can say at this point is onto Orvietz, Siena and Florence.

Click to expand...

Nice places!

/me back to USA

Dear antihero I'm the Italian administrator of the forum dedicated to the panigale, the streetfighter, the diavel and the multistrada (the forum link is www.desmoriders.it)..and I would like to thank you for your report. It made me excited for what the passion can make us do. The members of my forum are distributed over all the Italian territory..it would be a pleasure for us to help you, I'd you need it, and to meet you just for a beer and for a small chat on your amazing trip. So please write me in private and let us show you how we think that you are a great man. I live close to Milan, I know you had been here some days ago, but, as I said...a lot of my friends and forum members live in Rome

Sent you a PM. Thanks so much--unfortunately all the travel time, riding, photo editing/uploading and writing mean I'm always ahead of where I appear to be online. And just when I almost catch up it's time for another week of traveling.

If I make it back through Rome (I'm trying to get my bike into Pompei for a photo shoot, but am having little luck), I will let you know.

Updates in 3...2...1.....

Left Rome and yes--pretty much all of the surrounding areas look like this:



On my way from Milan to Rome I saw a city built up on the hillside. Probably a good time to point out that there are advantages to riding on major or minor freeways: all major roads go through towns and cities that are majorly interesting. Often backroads--esp. in Italy--are in pretty bad shape, so what looks great on a map can look more like a war zone in person. Great if you have a supermoto and love the bumps, but terrible if you have a 50lb backpack on and are not/do not.

Anyhow, saw it while heading South, so figured I'd try and get back to it when I headed north again.

Not my pic:


Orvieto is one of those cities, if I have to confess, that I imagined staying in prior to the trip. A rustic, magnificent ruin of a city that made it quite impossible not to pretend I was living in a completely different era. The reality of it, though, is that it's just a show and tell city, really. Still cool, but too much of an attraction. Makes it feel artificial, even though it's not.



And oh yes, most of these places are pedestrian only, though I did ride by cops here and there who didn't seem to mind us much. Try to get away with breaking laws right in front of the Italian Police on a GoldWing!

One of the downsides about hitting up spots and taking photos while I'm on the move is it gets HOT. Or really cold. Or a combination of the two, especially whenever rain is involved. But typically to stop = to overheat. And walking around with lead-filled backpack in full leathers can be miserable, as illustrated here:



There have been times, I'll admit, that I see a spot that looks like a great photo spot, then after considering I have to turn around, remove my helmet, gloves, backpack and tank bag, get cameras out, take pics, then put all my gear back on and well....sometimes it's just easier to convince myself that the sight wasn't that spectacular after all. Or worse yet, I do stop to go through all the trouble and it ends up not being that cool anyways.



And sometimes it's worth the effort:


Then of course, some scenes don't even require getting off the bike.









As an FYI--click any pic to see it in full resolution.

Now one thing I do not like about Italy is how difficult getting a cold drink--or gas--or some toothpaste--or food can be. As grotesque as it is to see a Burger King or Starbucks every 10 min. can be in the US, when not having eaten for 8-16 hours (very common on this trip for me), I'd almost pay $5 just to see a Taco Bell Taco. It really can be commercially primitive in most places here. While stopped to see if I had a signal on my phone I saw a small sign for ice cream. I went inside and viola--food! Ok, not much, but they had little glasses of sorbet, two kinds of chips and, most importantly, water.

Course the guy there wasn't really the guy working there, so it took (not kidding) a good 5 minutes to get me wrung up on their cash register (a pen and paper). The guy was quite old and had either lost the ability to add or never had it.

Anyhow, I sat outside and then these guys showed up.



Certain small towns have their own code of conduct. Here, clearly, those wearing Plaid Shirts and Pants and NO SOCKS must sit on the left. Those in shorts and solids, WITH SOCKS, on the right. You can tell the guys in solid are unhappy about being relegated to the corner (and made to keep one hand in or on their face while seated). Life just isn't fair.

Off to my Airbnb in Tuscany for a few nights:







Yeah, I got lost. They'd given me their precise GPS coordinates, but my Garmin had stopped working and my phone cut out just before getting there. An Italian guy comes hauling ass down a gravel road in a Panda. He was either very happy to see a Ducati or very happy to have found his new guest. Or maybe both. I followed him up the dirt road and into one of those locations on the planet that seem too perfect to be believable or real. Yet, there I was.











View from the dining area:



In, say, a competing wine region in the US such as Napa, this would be a $500 a night place. In the heart of Tuscany--35 Euros. No, wait--30 Euros? Let's see--how should I express my opinion eloquently. Ah, here we go: .... YOU CALIFORNIA!!!!

My little cottage villa there on the left.



View from my front door:



View from the kitchen:



The main house where the wonderful proprietors live:





Old olive press (it is an olive farm, btw):



Some of the most delicious salad (and the only bread salad) I've ever eaten with the most incredible olives in it.



I could have eaten a gallon of it. So good!

As your reactions suggest, the countryside is where the glory of Italy resides. Florence and all of the strained efforts by man to construct monuments to their gods just seemed so comparatively artificial and uninspiring.



That .... just looks like a giant paper cutout.



The repertoire of gleeful expressions are infectious!



"Hee heee heee!"


Every now and then I found a remote an unused alley to provide a much-needed respite from the maddness.





If that fails, head for bridges and water:







And of course, there are squares and areas not marked on the tourist maps that allow some private reflection.





Somewhere along the way I took a picture of the hundreds-strong line to get into the museum housing Michelangelo's David. I figured I'd come back the following morning to avoid the monotony of wasting two valuable hours pressed ass to crotch in the sun. But after seeing so many fantastic replicas, decided I needn't bother.



And then, purely by accident, discovered a David I that I could take a picture of with my bike. I never had to deal with the problem of male nudity in any of my photos. Butt--or penis--were the only two choices I had. Sorry to disappoint all you penis men out there, but I chose butt. Plus it makes a nice parting shot for Florence. Bye!

Finding food hard in Italy?
You sure do not find many (or any) 24h open restaurants, but that's a plus for me
Even little bars always get fresh pastries in the morning, and also get small panini we get for breakfast.
There is at least on bar in every city with more than 10 people living in it.
Also, look out for small grocery shops, as they always have a section where they sell salumi, which can prepare you a tasty panino
Agriturismo, means, food. Might have specific breakfast, lunch, dinner hours, but if you show up hungry, they will feed you.
Oh, yes, and the place where you went is a Circolo Arci, which are places where people (mostly aged) gather for talks, playing bocce, drinking, etc...

I know just what you mean, arriving in Florence was so busy we just wanted to turn and go back to the fields and countryside in Tuscany!

Ahh, what a nice read these past 6 pages. Thanks so much, Dennis, and be Safe!