Sags.. Again..

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Before the bashing, I did use search.. And google...

Does anyone have the recommended rider sag values for the Pani? I can only find preload by turns, but that won't help much if I want to be accurate..
 
Before the bashing, I did use search.. And google...

Does anyone have the recommended rider sag values for the Pani? I can only find preload by turns, but that won't help much if I want to be accurate..

What use are you putting the bike too??? Road or track??
 
Mostly road, but inspired if you have both I could get somewhere in between to suit my need :)
 
Well...this will all depend on your preferred feel on the bike ...For me I am 35mm front...26mm rear..(rider sag)...but that's just me.... You will shortly see many opinions I am sure...But I am a slow guy and this works for me...
 
Well...this will all depend on your preferred feel on the bike ...For me I am 35mm front...26mm rear..(rider sag)...but that's just me.... You will shortly see many opinions I am sure...But I am a slow guy and this works for me...
i am almost exactly the same as you, 35mm front, 25mm rear...
 
I myself prefer less sag/ stiffer setup. Mine is ~25 mm, I also don't use up shock travel.
 
I've always heard 35/25 for street use and then subtract 5-10mm from those numbers for track use.
 
I consulted Dave Moss and Dan Kyle (the biggest distributor of Ohlins in the World) and was told 38mm front 28mm rear for street by Dan Kyle and 35mm front and 25mm rear by Dave Moss... They reckon -5mm on those figures for the track as a good starting point and then tune to the conditions.

Cheers.
 
If you download the owners manual for the TTX36 shock (right side of the page on my link above) it slso gives some setup and sag numbers that are slightly different than the link.
 
I was told by Dan Kyle in 2013 40/30 front/rear sag. These were confirmed by the Ohlins tech who re-valved both forks and shock. I also have softened up the shock spring substantially (3 steps), and the fork spring (one side only) 1 step softer. Makes a world of difference on the Flat link position.
 
(I generally run 34 to 35 mm in front about 30 mm in rear if riding on the street ) I run 33 front and 28 in rear for the track depending on track surface and rear grip coming hard accelerating out of the corners..) How much do you weigh? If you are too light o too heavy you might need different springs..

Suspension settings listed in magazines are a waste of paper and ink.. They are for those of average build between 150 to 170 lbs.typically and even then it is a subjective issue Depends on how you ride (track or street) not going to work for everyone. Riding hard and fast on the track required firmer settings since you are pushing the bike at faster speeds and loading the suspension (at both ends )more that you could ever do on the street. Street sag is better set a little looser so you will have a more compliant ride.

Go see a suspension specialist it is worth the money..

Speedy
 
I'm currenty 80 kg, that's about 175 lbs. We don't really have a suspension specialist over here, best I can do is to chat with some privateers who actually race the bike. I actually managed to balance the rebound pretty good compared to the stock settings, and I got a basic understanding on how to tune compression damping and what loosening/tightening the compression does. But since everything depends on bike attitude and angles, I'm interrested in recommended sag values, which will decide my initial preload :) And see if I need to change the springs..
 

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