22+ V4 chassis geometry

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I measured the exposed fork above the triple clamp as ~1mm when the bike came out of the crate. Free travel is (as measured & spec) 120mm with a 4mm top-out spring, so 124mm total. The top-out spring check requires pulling out/down on the foot to measure. These facts are why I'm asking about the “5mm more” travel in the newer forks. What is it REALLY?

Sounds like you should measure from the top of the lower to the top of the fork cap (not just the gold outer tube per the manual). Allegedly, 120 mm travel forks should be set to 247.4 mm. But you should confirm with dealer. The measurement above the top plate is arbitrary and is dependent on what clamp you use (because they can vary in thickness and height). The 22 top clamp angles down at the forks by 5 mm
 
Forums are ..... Decide your left right limits and have fun. I have no ill will against you, just talking .....

Push right, go right. Push left, go left. Not turning enough? Push more.
 
Push right, go right. Push left, go left. Not turning enough? Push more.

Bp, is this more innuendo? Seriously this is a motorcycle forum not Grinder 😂

And on that note this reminded me of the song Sweat by Inner Circle

Girl I want to make you sweat
Sweat till you can't sweat no more
And if you cry out
I'm gonna push it
Push it, push it some more

 
To be clear we're only taking about the gold anodize section above the top clamp? I highly suggest setting that to 4mm and going on a test ride.

I don't know if I'd consider the top out spring in the math.

If you really need a fork travel measurement, remove all the preload and measure it from full extension to full compression. I don't think that matters though. Have you set the rider sag for your weight?

Yes, I'm quite sure about my bike setup and sag settings…
 

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Dude doesn’t know how to machine parts and wonders why someone wouldn’t just buy them… Have you ever drawn up design plans and sent them to a machinist? What kind of tolerances are you thinking? What type of material are you thinking? What kind of testing are you going to do on them? What kind of safety factor are you going for since it’s a mission critical item?

I don’t mind spending money on parts if necessary. Also note that I’m not going down that route and wouldn’t advise anyone but pro race teams go down that route.

I think a simple fork height change is all that’s needed for trackday enthusiasts

This does make me laugh. Andy probably found a chunk of whatever was lying around. Bunch of different stuff would work here. Measured the race diameter and the diameter in the front frame and anyway he went. The race diameter is somewhat critical (but probably not that tightly toleranced as it's a press fit), the OD is heat shrunk into the front frame so that tolerance is pretty sloppy.
 
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I actually have mine steeper. Probably in the high 23's. I was watching one of the WSB interviews and whoever it was said "I'm a short trail kinda of guy. Some others may find this too twichy". This is a track adjusted sort of thing anyway. But running it real steep to get exit speed on chicanes on some tracks make total sense.

I like my bikes on the shorter trail side if things too, but I suspect that my rather large rider size and weight maybe dampens the twitchiness because I don’t experience a bothersome twitchiness when the bike is set up in a way that most people THINK will make it feel twitchy.

I prefer the bike to feel lighter and more responsive, and I’m fine with giving up some stability for that. My weight stabilizes the bike 😂😂😂
 
Want twitchy try a 900RR or somebody posted a picture of a 750 2 stroke Kawi. Twitchy cannot describe that ill handling POS. I too am a short trail kinda of guy. There's is a point where the front will get tucky but I've never found this on any of my ducati's in my final preferred set-up.
 
Adjusting the fork height on a bike w stock fairings is kind of a pain. Not a lot of room to work with down in the lower triple. Also involves removal of wheel and fender. Wouldn’t want to do this at the track
 
Did a bit more thinking on this...

Always check your fork height and make sure it's at spec before doing anything. After the dealer replaced mine, they were actually 3 mm too short in relation to the lower fork yoke (248 vs spec of 251 mm) which makes sense why the bike felt sluggish to turn. Trail at this fork height was 104 mm. Lesson learned.

Stock fork height of the 22 V4S equates to 12 mm of exposed fork (or 7 mm yellow anodized) measured to the top of the fork cap with the stock top triple. This would give me 101.5 mm trail using DOT SC3 tire since the rake should be 24.5º at this fork height.

After a few more calcs, to get to 100 mm trail I'd need 254 mm of fork height or 15 mm exposed fork over the top clamp.

From 23 V4R manual which has the same NPX25/35 as the V4S (125 mm travel) minus the EC2 top cap:
Screenshot 2024-08-04 at 11.07.50 PM.png
 
for V4S MY 2022 onwards, the manual states the following as OE-setting. So your dealer did the job right.
c47afa08-d19e-49ee-ab3c-3d71b3b98640.JPG
 
I don't know if the 251.4mm figure is correct for anything other than a 2018 or 2019.

The 2018 MY shop manual I have also lists that value. Notice it's dated 7/25/2018.

2020 and onward saw a fork height change in which the front of the bike was higher; the forks were 4mm lower in the clamps.

Those freeware shop manuals...

1723033658490.png


IMG_0457.PNG
 
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