22+ V4 chassis geometry

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bp_SFV4 said:
Dude complains about the price of everything then throws up two machined aluminum disks that cost $595 USD parts and wonders why someone would just make them…
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Dude doesn’t know how to machine parts and wonders why someone wouldn’t just buy them… Have you ever drawn up design plans and sent them to a machinist? What kind of tolerances are you thinking? What type of material are you thinking? What kind of testing are you going to do on them? What kind of safety factor are you going for since it’s a mission critical item?

I don’t mind spending money on parts if necessary. Also note that I’m not going down that route and wouldn’t advise anyone but pro race teams go down that route.

I think a simple fork height change is all that’s needed for trackday enthusiasts
 
To get back on topic. Dealer installed my replacement NPX25/35s at 248 mm so probably went with the base model spec because they’re idiots. But that throws a bit of a wrench in my thinking as they’re already 3 mm lower and therefore at that 99 mm trail figure. I guess I just suck it up and just ride the thing
 
bp_SFV4 said:
I don’t think 5mm more travel necessarily equates to 5mm longer overall. The forks on the 2022+ V4S look like they have the same 4mm of fork tube above the top clamp as my 2021 which was the last year to use the non gas charged Ohlins fork that didn’t have the longer travel.
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Yeah, thats what I was asking/thinking about. My ‘21 SP had basically zero above the clamps, which should be the same as the S model. Maybe my initial setup was whacked. I suppose I’m slowly adjusting it back to the “normal” baseline.
 
SBK-SP said:
Yeah, thats what I was asking/thinking about. My ‘21 SP had basically zero above the clamps, which should be the same as the S model. Maybe my initial setup was whacked. I suppose I’m slowly adjusting it back to the “normal” baseline.
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Anyone know of an easy accurate way to get fork angle apart from buying a $500 Mitutoyo digital protractor? Would be good to have that to confirm things. 1/10ths of a degree and mm’s can make a big difference
 
SBK-SP said:
Yeah, thats what I was asking/thinking about. My ‘21 SP had basically zero above the clamps, which should be the same as the S model. Maybe my initial setup was whacked. I suppose I’m slowly adjusting it back to the “normal” baseline.
Click to expand...

I can’t imagine they did any special setup for the SP. Did you measure it?
 
bp_SFV4 said:
It's very obvious from Andy's posts that he has access to a machine shop.
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The cost of time, material, and machining 2 simple eccentric plates out of 7075 with high degrees of accuracy and tolerances would be more than $600. Machining a simple top plate w low tolerances and accuracy was around $200 and that’s with a friendly discount.

The only reason I tabbed up that plate was bc no one else made one that would match what I wanted
 
Trolling the biggest troll on the forum.

It's not "your" thread. You don't own anything on what's very obviously a Ducati marketing forum. The admin make zero posts until there's media releases from Ducati. Strange isn't it?

As soon as you type a post and click the button the words cease to be "yours" and becomes the forums. The idea that an OP has some kind of rights to a post they created is hilarious.

Constant .... posts. The "flush with cash" dribble. Problem is, you don't make enough money. Good. Go earn more. It will require you to stop .... posting and put in work.

Bike doesn't turn enough? Need to duplicate WSBK setup, or...maybe you aren't turning enough. Go to the gym. Either way, log off. 🖕
 
bp_SFV4 said:
Trolling the biggest troll on the forum.

It's not "your" thread. You don't own anything on what's very obviously a Ducati marketing forum. The admin make zero posts until there's media releases from Ducati. Strange isn't it?

As soon as you type a post and click the button the words cease to be "yours" and becomes the forums. The idea that an OP has some kind of rights to a post they created is hilarious.

Constant .... posts. The "flush with cash" dribble. Problem is, you don't make enough money. Good. Go earn more. It will require you to stop .... posting and put in work.

Bike doesn't turn enough? Need to duplicate WSBK setup, or...maybe you aren't turning enough. Go to the gym. Either way, log off. 🖕
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Someone’s missed his meds today haha 😂 That’s quite the manic diatribe

No need to go to the gym. Just got back from 2 hrs Z2 out in the mountains after work 😘

And I was flush with cash… until the missus booked a last minute trip to the Maldives 😂 Cheers 🥂
 
Your emote ........ doesn't mean .....

Your 2 hour jacking session in Z2 doesn't get you to the place where you have enough strength to push a bar to cause your bike to turn.

Book a trip on a woman's credit, 🤣
 
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bp_SFV4 said:
Your emote ........ doesn't mean .....

Your 2 hour jacking session in Z2 doesn't get you to the place where you have enough strength to push a bar to cause your bike to turn.

Book a trip on a woman's credit, 🤣
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Bp is so alpha!!! Definitely takes testosterone which causes him to rage out occasionally. He should really talk to a doctor about these side effects. That or he’s just a fat, aging white Midwesterner that has nothing better to do than troll a Ducati forum. Sad…

Remind me to post from our villa pool about inane V4 chassis geometry nuances in a month so… Sucks to be me

IMG_1437.jpeg
 
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This pick Googles an image and posts it like it matters.

Two hours in Z2 like a cuck but can't turn a bike.

Did you bring your wife's boyfriend? I hope she's getting plowed by an actual male who can produce a non cuck who can press a bar with sufficient force to initiate turn in.

Please give us another stumpy pic where you can't reach over the tank.
 
bp_SFV4 said:
I can’t imagine they did any special setup for the SP. Did you measure it?
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I measured the exposed fork above the triple clamp as ~1mm when the bike came out of the crate. Free travel is (as measured & spec) 120mm with a 4mm top-out spring, so 124mm total. The top-out spring check requires pulling out/down on the foot to measure. These facts are why I'm asking about the “5mm more” travel in the newer forks. What is it REALLY?
 
To be clear we're only taking about the gold anodize section above the top clamp? I highly suggest setting that to 4mm and going on a test ride.

I don't know if I'd consider the top out spring in the math.

If you really need a fork travel measurement, remove all the preload and measure it from full extension to full compression. I don't think that matters though. Have you set the rider sag for your weight?
 

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