Second water pump gone already

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Had this issue for ages on my S1000RR track bike and went away completely after I bought a vacuum bleeder kit and carried out a fluid change properly.
I didn’t even know that was a thing. The bleeder kits seem pretty cheap, I’ll have to give it a try. I run engine ice and change coolant every spring. I always end up having to do a few heat cycles to get the coolant level right, it would be nice to get it on the first try.
 
My track bike used to do my head in. Every session looking at engine temp and then once in, removing belly pan, draining coolant out of it, topping up res and radiator etc. After the first vacuum bleed I never looked back. Not saying it's 100% the issue on your bike SD but for a good inexpensive tool to have on hand along with the problems you are describing and how much a pain in the ass that is, it's 100% worth a try.
 
I didn’t even know that was a thing. The bleeder kits seem pretty cheap, I’ll have to give it a try. I run engine ice and change coolant every spring. I always end up having to do a few heat cycles to get the coolant level right, it would be nice to get it on the first try.
I love them. Helped a few mates out with cooling system issues. Just need to make sure your compressor has the herbs to create enough vacuum in the system. Anything bigger than the cheap / really small ones will be fine. Make sure the kit has the right size rad cap adapter fitting. Went to do an RSV4 the other week and my kit didn't have the right fitting.
 

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Do you guys not squeeze/pump the hoses when you fill the radiator? I do this, then run the engine to fans on, shut off then top off when cool and never have to add anymore coolant.
Of course, but you can’t beat these things for a 100% perfect fill. Some systems harder to bleed air out than others.
 
Argh. Water pump won’t leak for the dealer. Didn’t leak when I cruised it in to drop off either. They can’t really ride it much around the city with any kind of RPM. Maybe this is part of the scenario.

I’ll take it home, disconnect the weep hose and run it into a little bottle and take it for a good thrash.

I’m definitely not tripping about it leaking!
 

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100%. Overflow bottle never went up let alone filled up the second bottle which it needs to to to end up on the ground. No over heating at all.
The interesting thing about this is you said it only leaked after having it constantly spooled up in low gear. Go do it again and see if it does it again. I'd like to see what the newer pumps changes are.
 
For sure. That's the plan. Will be interesting to confirm, in my case, if this kind of loading is providing the conditions for it to leak as opposed to not at all.
 
For sure. That's the plan. Will be interesting to confirm, in my case, if this kind of loading is providing the conditions for it to leak as opposed to not at all.
Ok. If it does it again, try changing to a lower pressure cap, doing it again see it stops it. It wasn't really that hot though, was it? Seals will sometimes get the minutest piece of crude on them and leak and then recover (sorta like bug guts causing Ohlins to leak). Weird. I just had a thot. The pump runs off a gear that's integral to the idler that reverses the primary rotation. This gear is floated on an eccentric that when you assemble the motor the backlash between the three gears (crank, idler, clutch) is to be set with no bias. If that were off a bit would it put a pulsing load into the pump mainshaft that showed up as a leak at high RPM?
 
No heating issues at all. Only 3 bars on the gauge the whole time. I'm going to stay with the higher pressure cap as I don't believe, for me, there is an issue with side of the system causing the leak.

I guess sideloading of the main shaft to the point of seal failure is a possibility when you look at my symptoms but, that's a very hard thing to say or diagnose when it looks so difficult to disassemble the pump and be able to measure up without some point of destruction like you've shown. We need a sealed electric version that slotted in situ and the herbs to drive it!
 
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Thinking about it, if your bike was out of warranty and you were also paying labour to have the pump replaced on the regular, it may not look like too bad of a proposition
 
In theory, it has a lot of benefits. Kind of a complicated install though. I'm surprised manufacturers haven't switched to electric water and/or oil pumps to recover power to offset the power loss where they had to neuter the bikes to make emissions.
 
So true. Maybe the cost hinderance along with being able to supply the electrical output required to drive such components. Mechanically driven components are typically more reliable too. Except Ducati V4 water pumps that is.

Just rode my bike home from the dealer (only 15 mins), and still no leak. I'll get it out from a solid high RPM / low gear ride as soon as time and weather allows.
 

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