Setting up for first track day

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If you're careful you can reuse the vinyl for several applications. Visually its pretty badass
 

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Ohlins TTX shock got delayed, so I maybe looking to setup my stock suspension myself prior to the trackday.
Do you all recommend any video that teaches one how to do an initial setup of the suspension? The videos I watched are either cut short to make you buy into a tutorial or poorly explained.

Most track day providers have a local shop providing suspension setups for a reasonable price. I think our guy charges $70-$80
 
So many of those are sh*t. I went down this rabbit hole of incompatibility when trying to sort out clip-ons and controls last winter.

The Spider ones are nice, sized perfectly. If you use the R&G lock stop savers, the damper brackets will shorten the turning radius even further.

Probably better just to back off the clip-on angle slightly so you can go lock to lock.
I use the R&G stops savers, of cource AFTER i broke the originals. The amount of reduction of turn radius is not noticible even in town. On top of that they are made from some sort of pressed nylon, so i filed them a couple a millimeters on the left side so i can lock the forks.

And yes im the guy who droped the bike and the Rizoma mirror broke the magnesium front cowl. So i hate them to this day :) The cowling has tree holes in this spot for the bolts and cabels, so i very fragile.

Im concidering DB race deemon mirrors at least they are shorter and retract invards. But the price is insane even with low EU shipping.
 
I use the R&G stops savers, of cource AFTER i broke the originals. The amount of reduction of turn radius is not noticible even in town. On top of that they are made from some sort of pressed nylon, so i filed them a couple a millimeters on the left side so i can lock the forks.

And yes im the guy who droped the bike and the Rizoma mirror broke the magnesium front cowl. So i hate them to this day :) The cowling has tree holes in this spot for the bolts and cabels, so i very fragile.

Im concidering DB race deemon mirrors at least they are shorter and retract invards. But the price is insane even with low EU shipping.
Barends (CRG's are nice). Turn them upside down. Once you do that you'll never go back. Mounting anything on the fairing stays never works out.
 
I use the R&G stops savers, of cource AFTER i broke the originals. The amount of reduction of turn radius is not noticible even in town. On top of that they are made from some sort of pressed nylon, so i filed them a couple a millimeters on the left side so i can lock the forks.

And yes im the guy who droped the bike and the Rizoma mirror broke the magnesium front cowl. So i hate them to this day :) The cowling has tree holes in this spot for the bolts and cabels, so i very fragile.

Im concidering DB race deemon mirrors at least they are shorter and retract invards. But the price is insane even with low EU shipping.
So I broke both steering stops on my bottom yoke (why did Ducati make them so fragile???)

I bought this in hopes I could reduce the chances of the clips ons going too far and causing another low side.

https://www.hsbkracing.com/parts-an...i-panigale-1199-1299-v4-billet-steering-stop/

But the dealership said it wouldn’t be a good idea considering I still ride the bike on the street as well so I wouldn’t be able to do accurate turns. Would the R&G stops be better for both track and street?
 
So I broke both steering stops on my bottom yoke (why did Ducati make them so fragile???)

I bought this in hopes I could reduce the chances of the clips ons going too far and causing another low side.

https://www.hsbkracing.com/parts-an...i-panigale-1199-1299-v4-billet-steering-stop/

But the dealership said it wouldn’t be a good idea considering I still ride the bike on the street as well so I wouldn’t be able to do accurate turns. Would the R&G stops be better for both track and street?
Well, the lock stopers and demper mount are defenetly weak points. They are the first to go in a slide. On top of that they are nearly imposible te repair. You have to change the bottom triple clamp and the entire frame. it is what it is, as one friend pointet out "its not made for craches"

To your question: the R&G stoppers limit the stearing buy a negligible amount. I ride on narror streets and 90 degree intersections before i hit the oppen road and i never felt any restriction. Moving the bike in the garage is not a probelm as well.
I think the Spider one is way to track orientated and you have to remove the horn, not good if you ride on the road.
I hope this helps.
 
But the dealership said it wouldn’t be a good idea considering I still ride the bike on the street as well so I wouldn’t be able to do accurate turns. Would the R&G stops be better for both track and street?
What dealership said this? The only time you'd be at full lock is maybe moving it around a parking lot or your garage. I don't know what this has to do with the accuracy of turns. Bizarre advice. The R&G wouldn't be any different from the Spider stop, except with the Spider, I don't think you can still use the horn as it uses the horn mount.
 
What dealership said this? The only time you'd be at full lock is maybe moving it around a parking lot or your garage. I don't know what this has to do with the accuracy of turns. Bizarre advice. The R&G wouldn't be any different from the Spider stop, except with the Spider, I don't think you can still use the horn as it uses the horn mount.
Ducati Detroit
 
Well, the lock stopers and demper mount are defenetly weak points. They are the first to go in a slide. On top of that they are nearly imposible te repair. You have to change the bottom triple clamp and the entire frame. it is what it is, as one friend pointet out "its not made for craches"

To your question: the R&G stoppers limit the stearing buy a negligible amount. I ride on narror streets and 90 degree intersections before i hit the oppen road and i never felt any restriction. Moving the bike in the garage is not a probelm as well.
I think the Spider one is way to track orientated and you have to remove the horn, not good if you ride on the road.
I hope this helps.
The helps a lot actually thanks
 
I don’t see how anyone at all familiar with the part or its function could give that advice.
To my knowledge he’s a former race club guy many medals and such. He told me I wouldn’t be able to make u turns at all and it wasn’t safe to have the spider piece on if this bike was to touch the street so I never installed it. Was looking for an alternative instead of paying $800 for a new bottom yoke
 
A guy club racing doesn’t give him some crazy mechanical accolade. Use common sense.The only thing making the Spider less useful for the street is not being able to fit the horn, and that really only if you have to pass an inspection.
 
A guy club racing doesn’t give him some crazy mechanical accolade. Use common sense.The only thing making the Spider less useful for the street is not being able to fit the horn, and that really only if you have to pass an inspection.
Woah woah woah relax buddy I’m not saying he’s right I was just relaying who gave me the information
 
Woah woah woah relax buddy I’m not saying he’s right I was just relaying who gave me the information
You get kind of triggered quick. It wasn’t that serious. ;)

There’s a lot of bad advice that comes out of dealerships. Most of the time it’s based on pure conjecture but riders give more weight to it because they’re at a dealership.
 

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