Shifting issue. Shift to 1st and goes to neutral and same with 2nd

Hey guys. Maybe someone can shed some light into whats going on with my 1299. We installed a Cordona QS on the bike. But didnt know whether it mattered whether the part where the sensor was attached to faced forward or backward. Initially the Cordona shifter rod was installed facing the rear of the bike where the QS and wires were connected to the shifter rod. The bike is set up gp shifting. When I went throught the gears it went to 1st then 2nd through 6th. Then we thought maybe its facing the wrong way so we flipped it ( we were told it didnt matter which way it faced). After flipping it I tried going to 1st. When I let go after going into 1st I hear a click and it goes into neutral on its own. When I went to 2nd and let go I heard this click and it went back to neutral. So we flipped it back to how it was originally. And same thing happened. Go into 1st , let go and I hear a click and it goes into neutral. Go into 2nd , let go and I hear a click and it goes back to neutral. Does anyone know what the issue may be?

Could be a small pin in the outer part of the gearbox that is broken. Comon issue, had it on mine, it was stuck in first gear. It that is the case, then it's a warranty case.

KvalheimRacing said:

Could be a small pin in the outer part of the gearbox that is broken. Comon issue, had it on mine, it was stuck in first gear. It that is the case, then it's a warranty case.

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Thanks for the reply. After tinkering around a bit. If i put it into 1st gear from neutral it now remains in neutral. But if I try upshifting from neutral to 2nd, it clicks into 2nd. And then when i let go you hear this slight click and it goes right back to neutral. The clicking I hear when it goes to neutral from 2nd sounds like that slight clicking sound is coming from inside the bike on the left side. Or I may be hearing things and the clicking is the shifter rod and other parts clicking and moving from 2nd to neutral

Kvalheimracing I wish it was still under warranty. The bike is a 2015 that I bought brand new March 2016. So the warranty expired Feb 2018. If it is a broken pin in the outer part of the gearbox. What do you thing the cost would be to replace that part along with labor? If you cant estimate labor costs because you dont know our hourly labor costs. How many hours would it take to fix the issue if thats the issue?

cycler said:

Kvalheimracing I wish it was still under warranty. The bike is a 2015 that I bought brand new March 2016. So the warranty expired Feb 2018. If it is a broken pin in the outer part of the gearbox. What do you thing the cost would be to replace that part along with labor? If you cant estimate labor costs because you dont know our hourly labor costs. How many hours would it take to fix the issue if thats the issue?

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Mine was a really quick fix. just half a hour or something like that. I guess they charge an hour anyway. When they told me about the pin stuff it sounder really easy, so actuallt I could have done it myself. It is just recplacing a broken part behind a cover. Sp I would have checked first myself if I were you. I use the site # DUCATI Online Genuine Spare Parts Catalog to look at schematics if I wonder how the parts are.

cycler said:

Thanks for the reply. After tinkering around a bit. If i put it into 1st gear from neutral it now remains in neutral. But if I try upshifting from neutral to 2nd, it clicks into 2nd. And then when i let go you hear this slight click and it goes right back to neutral. The clicking I hear when it goes to neutral from 2nd sounds like that slight clicking sound is coming from inside the bike on the left side. Or I may be hearing things and the clicking is the shifter rod and other parts clicking and moving from 2nd to neutral

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Definetly open up the outer part of the gearbox and see (no oil there)

Cycler, how many miles are on ur bike?

Guys thanks for the info. kvalheimracing as for the shift not holding, with the bike in the on or off position Im actually thinking because the motor isnt running and the gears are not spinning that may be the first thing Ill check. I didnt think of that until a few hours ago. This would be normal for most bikes as the gears are not necessarily meshing with the bike off. Ill rotate the rear wheel while shifting and see it that will help the gears to fully engage and not fall back to neutral. This would never happen with motor running and only happens when trying to shift with the bike stationary. If thats not the case then I will go to plan B which is what Kvalheimracing posted about regarding the pins.

DucatiKev I have about 5500 miles on the Ducati 1299, 5800 miles on the S1000RR, 6700 miles on the S1000R, 8500 miles on the Dyna but thats after a full engine rebuild from top to bottom only keeping the crank case. in 2016. Otherwise it would be 22,000 miles. And before my Street Glide was stolen last spring that had 23,500 miles. So since 2010 with these bikes and the one stolen this past May Ive put on 63,300 miles on 9 years. Averaging 7,055 miles per year combined on all 5 bikes up until last May which then brought it down to 4 bikes.

I love it!
I shipped everything down to Florida for the winter
Daytona 675 has 14,K
1299S has under 4K
Dayna 15,000
No major issues on anything yet, some leaking out of the 1299 clutch where I have to keep bleeding it at the master cylinder

would you ever dare bring it to your local Ducati dealer or are you the type that can & will fix it yourself

also, what are your top speeds on each bike??

good luck with your transmission, I hope it gets squared away

Check that the shift rod is adjusted with enough throw to rotate the shift shaft to its full rotation to move it into the next gear. I ran into a similar situation when adjusting the shift lever to a GP shift pattern. When I got the shift lever to where I wanted it, the shift rod (the rod going from the foot pedal to the shift shaft) was not positioned correctly so when I would attempt to shift from 1st to 2nd it was only rotating 1/2 of what was required to shift to the next gear.

DucatiKev said:

View attachment 28750
I love it!
I shipped everything down to Florida for the winter
Daytona 675 has 14,K
1299S has under 4K
Dayna 15,000
No major issues on anything yet, some leaking out of the 1299 clutch where I have to keep bleeding it at the master cylinder

would you ever dare bring it to your local Ducati dealer or are you the type that can & will fix it yourself

also, what are your top speeds on each bike??

good luck with your transmission, I hope it gets squared away

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I do a lot of work myself. Not the extremely difficult stuff like opening the engine. For example on my Ducati Ive installed CNC Racing rear sets, Rapid Bike, Termignoni relevance slips ons then sold them and installed the VanDemon undertail exhaust, CNC Racing clear clutch cover and pressure plate, did a mod where now I flip a LED lighted button and the fan turns on, brakes, oil changes, jetprime switches, carbon fiber exhaust heat shield under the seat when I had my termis, asv adjustable brake and clutch levers, turn signals, cnc racing frame sliders, battery, air filter, carbon fiber parts, removed wheels to get new rubber, clutch fluid, coolant fluid, QS but we know how thats going. And its going back to Cordona because the light on the unit doesnt flicker. So it cant be configured anyway. And I do a lot of the work on my other bikes. I did the front inverted suspension install on my Dyna as well as a lot of other work on my own. Did a cat delete install on my S1000RR, rapid bike , rapid bike my tune, block off plates, and about the same things that were done to the Ducati. Same goes with my S1000R

B Topp said:

Check that the shift rod is adjusted with enough throw to rotate the shift shaft to its full rotation to move it into the next gear. I ran into a similar situation when adjusting the shift lever to a GP shift pattern. When I got the shift lever to where I wanted it, the shift rod (the rod going from the foot pedal to the shift shaft) was not positioned correctly so when I would attempt to shift from 1st to 2nd it was only rotating 1/2 of what was required to shift to the next gear.

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You may be right. But its going back to Cordona because even when i installed it the first time and it was facing backwards which from what I was emailed it didnt matter which way it was facing. At that point Im guessing the rod was perfect because it was sent to me at the exact length I needed. And it went through the gears. However when it was time to adjust the shifter so it was set to whatever shift pattern I wanted. The little light on the unit never went on initially. It was supposed to blink when the ignition button was turned on and the run button was pressed. But the light didnt blink to show it was ready to be set. When I flipped the rod the other way and then back again the light blinked on 2 occasions . But it only blinked once each time. Im thinking that when I installed the rod, then removed it i may have adjusted the length by accident. And then when I flipped it back again something may have adjusted. After playing around I can go into 1st. But I still need to the theory of turning the bike on so the engine runs and clutch is spinning and i move the bike so the rear wheel rotates. Then switch gears and see if thats the issue. Ill do that once I get a new shifter back from Cordona. Im not in the mood to put my old unit back on and bolt everything up only to remove it again when the replacement Cordona unit in