Suspension set up

Looking for some input/advice, I have a 2012 base that I track ride/ canyon carve and everything inbetween. I have upgraded the suspension to the FGRT203 forks and the TTX MK2 shock all sprung for my weight. When the forks were installed the put the top of the forks even with the top of the upper triple, I believe the stock setup has them down 2-4mm or so. My last track day I have the sag, comp and rebound all setup throughout the day but somethjng still feels off, it feels like the bike isn't turning in as well as before. So it is my thinking that lowering the front end a little to what the stock setup was would make it turn in faster and get me back to what I was used to, or am I way off here.

Kevin1199 said:

Looking for some input/advice, I have a 2012 base that I track ride/ canyon carve and everything inbetween. I have upgraded the suspension to the FGRT203 forks and the TTX MK2 shock all sprung for my weight. When the forks were installed the put the top of the forks even with the top of the upper triple, I believe the stock setup has them down 2-4mm or so. My last track day I have the sag, comp and rebound all setup throughout the day but somethjng still feels off, it feels like the bike isn't turning in as well as before. So it is my thinking that lowering the front end a little to what the stock setup was would make it turn in faster and get me back to what I was used to, or am I way off here.

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You are spot on.

Raising the fork tubes will steepen rake and reduce trail. This will quicken your steering.

Kevin1199 said:

Looking for some input/advice, I have a 2012 base that I track ride/ canyon carve and everything inbetween. I have upgraded the suspension to the FGRT203 forks and the TTX MK2 shock all sprung for my weight. When the forks were installed the put the top of the forks even with the top of the upper triple, I believe the stock setup has them down 2-4mm or so. My last track day I have the sag, comp and rebound all setup throughout the day but somethjng still feels off, it feels like the bike isn't turning in as well as before. So it is my thinking that lowering the front end a little to what the stock setup was would make it turn in faster and get me back to what I was used to, or am I way off here.

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Hi Kevin,

I have a similar fork and shock assembly on my bike and it did feel a bit weired initially when put on the bike first - but it was setup for me by a suspension expert at Donington park a few weeks ago and I cannot believe how good the bike handles, it is so sad I have been tolerating its odd behaviour all this time, should have taken it to him the day I bought the bike to be honest.

Eitherway, there were a few things I remember him telling me. He said leave the fork height above the triple clamp to 5mm which is what is recommended by Ohlins, there is no need to fiddle with that, it works great in that position. Also, leave the eye to eye length of the rear shock to what ever is recommended by Ohlins. They only need fiddling when your riding gets to a really advanced level. I run fast intermediates and did not need any changes to those parameters..

The only thing he did change was the rear linkage from Progressive to Flat, that made a massive difference, the front preload by a bit and the clicker values for compression and rebound for front fork and rear shock through out the day and tuned it further following my feedback. He said, it might need further tuning if I use the SC compound instead of the SP which I had on the day.

I will check out what values I have and will update you on that once I get home today. I run a 9.5 spring at the front and 95 at the rear and weigh 74 kgs with gear.

Just remember everyone's set up may not suit you .Start and a decent base set up make small changes keep a note book so you can remember what is working and what does not work .
Just a side note judging by your avatar body position may not be helping . That is only a suggestion .

Thanks for all the input, that is an old picture and I have improved body position quite a bit since then, again thanks for the input. I have had it setup at the track so comp and rebound are set, it just felt like the turn in felt slower, if u remembered right I believe the base forks were 4mm up on the triple, I just want that feeling back, the forks are leagues above the stock ones, I just want that feeling back.

wilkson said:

Just a side note judging by your avatar body position may not be helping .

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you show off dude


get back to the bike manual and find the geometry setup in there.
put the bike back to normal (fork height, rear height) and start from there.
then adjust the sag for your weight.
then damping.
then rebound.

(the last two can be changed)

i am by no means an expert in this, but having adjusted my suspension by this scheme it feels awesome on the bike / track and i can't ask for more...

(lighter wheels maybe)

Kevin1199 said:

Thanks for all the input, that is an old picture and I have improved body position quite a bit since then, again thanks for the input. I have had it setup at the track so comp and rebound are set, it just felt like the turn in felt slower, if u remembered right I believe the base forks were 4mm up on the triple, I just want that feeling back, the forks are leagues above the stock ones, I just want that feeling back.

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either drop the front or raise the rear, just not all at once, go step by step.

keep track of the changes and take notes of how they feel, also additional factors like tire pressures, ambient temp. track temp., also if you're tired, feel stiff/sore or refreshed ...

Was thinking of picking up the adjustable link from Ducabike to raise the rear a tiny bit. Any input on this for the Pani?

JHTmcrider said:

Was thinking of picking up the adjustable link from Ducabike to raise the rear a tiny bit. Any input on this for the Pani?

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You don't need an adjustable link, there is a ride height adjuster on your stock shock.

we you get the Ohlins FGRT 203, there's an owner's manual, and a separate installation instructions that has the recommended setup for your bike model. mine shows +5mm above triple for fork height.

the geometry feels really good, and bump absorption in the front end is great, now i am sorting out the bumpy back end.

Ok, but the Ducabike looks a bit nicer.

I'll pull the cover and see if I can add a few threads. Got my sag numbers good.

Forks need to be 3mm out of the triples. The thing about being crossed up is unfortunately true.